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Help with upgrade path still a newbie after 2 years

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158
3
Almost sold the car, but at the last minute pulled the plug. I still really like the looks and everything about her. So I need some help with upgrading. Basically the car is stock with all the LS goodies installed including race pads and dot 4 brake fluid. My goal is to upgrade the car to make it quicker around the track and autox. I know the first step is still more seat time. But besides that what would be next? Also, I tend to be more comfortable on the track versus autox, because the back end of the car always gets loose on those short autox courses - even spinning out (nannies turned off). So what should I do next? At present, I am satisfied with the HP, but what will make the car stick better? I am still running the stock pirelli corsa tires? Can I still use the stock rims and get better tires or is it much better to upgrade both wheels and tires? What tires are excellent for Track and autox? Also, I see everyone talking about 18 x 10's. Are they that much better than the LS setup? Will cc plates help too? What should happen first? Thanks as always for the help - I am trying to continuously improve. :)
 
Wider sticker rubber

P springs

Wider sticker rubber

Camber plates

Wider sticker rubber

Are you driving or trailering your car to the track? That will help determine which tires to run. A square setup with 18x10.5's is probably best then 18x10's. The reason for the 18's is a better selection of tires to use on track.
 
158
3
Thanks,

Got it...I think I should start with larger, stickier tires....I will use the stock rims and wheels to get to the track. As for the Autox, they are all within 20 miles from the house; so I can probably drive there on the new tires.

I will start with the 18 X 10.5 rims and new stickier tires....so what tires do you or the forum members suggest..NT01's, PSS, etc and the size?

Also I'm assuming I'll need spacers...are the spacers (so they don't rub the brake cooling ducts) as simple as putting them on first and the rim over the spacer?
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,530
5,247
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Nitto NT-01s are a good solution if you do not want to take the next step to slicks, I would go with the Nitto's.

Seat time and Instructor time is critical to development of the nut behind the wheel. I went tech first, mistake.
 
158
3
So I understand, performance wise...same performance...less cost. Does it affect anything like the speedometer....curious.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
2,198
1,065
Bay Area
I didn't notice iron mine, but I really didn't pay that much attention.

One thing I forgot to mention about autoX or track is you need to go slow so you can learn to be fast.
 
johna said:
So I understand, performance wise...same performance...less cost. Does it affect anything like the speedometer....curious.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

If you want to minimize speedo effects when changing rim/tire sizes take note to the overall diameter of rim/tire combination in stock form and then shoot for a size as close to the factory diameter as possible on the aftermarket combo.

FWIW, I'm running 18x10 wheels with 40 series tires (Potenza RE-11) and the overall diameter had minimal change to the speedo (IIRC, 3mph at 80mph and the gap increasing slightly at higher speeds). This is with no speedo correction done at the ECU.

Since most larger width tires only come with 30-35 series heights then correction may be needed with a tune if the difference bothers you enough to warrant correction.

Again FWIW, I've changed gear ratios and tires/rim size at the same time and my speedo is only off slightly with ECU correction via tune.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
johna said:
Almost sold the car, but at the last minute pulled the plug. I still really like the looks and everything about her. So I need some help with upgrading. Basically the car is stock with all the LS goodies installed including race pads and dot 4 brake fluid. My goal is to upgrade the car to make it quicker around the track and autox. I know the first step is still more seat time. But besides that what would be next? Also, I tend to be more comfortable on the track versus autox, because the back end of the car always gets loose on those short autox courses - even spinning out (nannies turned off). So what should I do next? At present, I am satisfied with the HP, but what will make the car stick better? I am still running the stock pirelli corsa tires? Can I still use the stock rims and get better tires or is it much better to upgrade both wheels and tires? What tires are excellent for Track and autox? Also, I see everyone talking about 18 x 10's. Are they that much better than the LS setup? Will cc plates help too? What should happen first? Thanks as always for the help - I am trying to continuously improve. :)

Park the LS, and purchase Rick's Track prepped 2012 Boss 302. You'll have everything you need to go very fast, and you can save all that wear and tear on your LS.

Rick will set you up,
302 HP
 
302 Hi Pro said:
Park the LS, and purchase Rick's Track prepped 2012 Boss 302. You'll have everything you need to go very fast, and you can save all that wear and tear on your LS.

Rick will set you up,
302 HP
Excellent idea but hurry! November 1st I start removing all the go fast goodies.

No need to worry about the speedo. On track you never look at it anyway. ;)
 
Rick's car would be a great solution :)

The speedo error will be small, don't worry about it....

I started with Safety items - Pads, Fluid, Roll Bar, 6 point harness, Hans and Wheels/Tires (Enkei's plus Nitto) and Camber Plates. The weight and traction of the wheel/tire upgrade is certainly the most significant performance improvement as Rick pointed out. PSS are great on the street and in the wet at the track, but not nearly as quick as the Nitto's in the dry.
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
Great choice keeping the Boss!
Yep, buy Rick's car.

Agree with Black Boss. Safety first. DOT4 brake fluid (ATE TYP2000 is great performance and price), pads--several good brand choices, brake cooling kit.
If a BMW club near by does an instructional track event, do a few of those. I've done 3, and BMW has a great instructor training program.
Tires--Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Hankook RS3, and I run Nitto NT-05. Other choices too in street tires. After more experience, Nitto NT-01 or slicks. Get caster/camber plates after you've done a weekend or 2 and know you're hooked. MMC or Vorshlag
Then get a roll bar, harness HANS device for safety.
 
158
3
Great suggestions and a question:

If I run with 18 x 10 or 18 x 10.5 what size spacers do I need? and do I only need those only for the front tires or rear ones too? Any suggestions where to get them too?
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
18x10 SVE drift wheels at Late Model Restoration don't need spacers. Lots of people run them, even up to 305 slicks (but they're on the narrow side for that width tire). Price is great too. I plan to get a set this winter.

Enkei PF01 18x10.5 in the correct offset don't need spacers either, but I'm not sure what that offset is.
I've got 2 sets of 18x9.5 and they are light, and look great. But they're twice the price of the SVE drifts.
 
The 10.5" Enkei's with 305's are a little pinched, but I ran them for a season. 10" would be even tighter. If you want a set of wheels that will run 305's or even 315's with no pinching check this out:

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=10204.0
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
All of the above...... BUT before you wreck your tranny at the track, get a Blowfish or MGW race shifter to keep the tranny alive and well!
 
158
3
Yes! I have the blowfish bracket...it's made everything good with the mt-82

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Good stuff!! So far I really liké my spec 1 clutch and aluminium flywheel. Srf brake fluid and good race pads like Pagid etc are also nice peace of mind
 
Things that will specifically fix some of the issues you are seeing will be camber plates and rear relocation brackets. Next will be larger and stickier rubber and the wheels to support the big tires. You should already have a Torsen differential, but I recommend switching to a 3.55:1 final drive instead of the 3.73 that your car came with.

Upgrades from there will be better spring rates and shocks to support those spring rates properly. Next a Watts link and some select bushing replacement. Sometimes it's easier to swap arms than bushings, so I usually swap lower rear arms entirely, but just swap the bushings on the front arms. Depending on what sort of adjustability you want, there are adjustable (and stiffer) swaybars and different shocks have damping adjustments.
 

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