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Here goes my MASSIVE learning curve

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18
12
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Ladson South Carolina
Bill, would you really recommend this to a beginner? I don't run slicks since I have to drive to the track. But beyond that I probably wouldn't since I've heard they do not give you audible warnings like street tires. They stick until they don't.
I also would be driving to and from the track. This is good to know thank you for chiming in.
 
1,289
1,113
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Philly Metro Area
If you don't mind me asking, what is your setup for brakes, tires, and wheels? Offsets, dimensions, reasons why, problems, what would you change etc?
What type of Ferodo pads do you have? If they are the DS2500 then you should be ok for a few more track days. As you get better you'll need to swap pads between street and track at least for the front brakes. The DSUNO or DS1.11 are higher temp pads that are still compatible with the DS2500 as you swap back and forth. There are multiple threads under the Brakes, Wheels, and Tires sub-forum
 
539
687
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
I'll be giving that a thorough go through after work, thank you!

If you don't mind me asking, what is your setup for brakes, tires, and wheels? Offsets, dimensions, reasons why, problems, what would you change etc?
I know this wasn't directed towards myself but maybe it'll help you some.

Brakes: G-Loc R12 front and R10 rear with DBA 4000 rotors
I had Hawk HP+ pads...they melted. I had cheap low-carbon Centric rotors...they warped. Definitely get rotors with high carbon content.

Wheels: 19x11 +50 SVE wheels from LMR (flow formed and affordable)
25mm spacers on the front only with ARP 1" extended studs
Ford racing open lug nuts

Tires: 305/30/19 GY SC3. These have crazy grip for a 220tw tire and last a good while.

(this is only for the track setup, you can run whatever you want for the street)
Also, I drive the car to the track but I do cram 4 wheels/tires in the trunk and back seat. So I don't drive my track tires on the street.
 
18
12
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Ladson South Carolina
I know this wasn't directed towards myself but maybe it'll help you some.

Brakes: G-Loc R12 front and R10 rear with DBA 4000 rotors
I had Hawk HP+ pads...they melted. I had cheap low-carbon Centric rotors...they warped. Definitely get rotors with high carbon content.

Wheels: 19x11 +50 SVE wheels from LMR (flow formed and affordable)
25mm spacers on the front only with ARP 1" extended studs
Ford racing open lug nuts

Tires: 305/30/19 GY SC3. These had crazy grip for a 220tw tire and last a good while.

(this is only for the track setup, you can run whatever you want for the street)
Also, I drive the car to the track but I do cram 4 wheels/tires in the trunk and back seat. So I don't drive my track tires on the street.
I greatly appreciate you chiming in no worries! As the car is currently still mostly my daily my tire choice would lean more towards street setup with occasional track use as I'm not up to that level yet. How do you like the g-locs? I've heard great things but not much from a more street use kind of setup.
What type of Ferodo pads do you have? If they are the DS2500 then you should be ok for a few more track days. As you get better you'll need to swap pads between street and track at least for the front brakes. The DSUNO or DS1.11 are higher temp pads that are still compatible with the DS2500 as you swap back and forth. There are multiple threads under the Brakes, Wheels, and Tires sub-forum
The ds2500 at the moment, and I'll give those sections a reading this weekend as well thanks!
 
1,289
1,113
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Philly Metro Area
@CZehntner - as you see messages from us and wonder what we have and use on our cars, many of us have created a Build Thread linked to our profile. If you see a picture of a car and it's name/title at the end of our messages you can click on the pic. That will take you to the Specs & Mods tab. There is a separate Build Thread that allows for discussion.

I encourage you to take the info and pic from your original post and create such a page.
 
18
12
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Ladson South Carolina
@CZehntner - as you see messages from us and wonder what we have and use on our cars, many of us have created a Build Thread linked to our profile. If you see a picture of a car and it's name/title at the end of our messages you can click on the pic. That will take you to the Specs & Mods tab. There is a
I was not aware of that thank you! I'll have to start one as well then. Much appreciated!
 
1,289
1,113
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Philly Metro Area
This is also a good thread if you're just starting out in HPDE

 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,496
8,493
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
Coz, I should have explained more thoroughly that the used racing slicks would be another option on the 18x11s once more seat time was completed. I often find the difference from a gumboil 200 TWR tire is not that surprising to drivers, but I should have prefaced them as a later option. I do need to suggest folks consider what many Autocrossers often do, and that is keep the street tires and rims for driving to the track and putting the race tires/rims, jack , suitcase, tools in the car for mounting at the track. Granted the car as to be big enough , and the Mustang is, and I know quite a few folks who do that.

I remember driving home from Topeka,Ks. one weekend on my Hoosier R7s, because I had a flat on my street tires. Years back , but I drove to tons of tracks, auto crosses, etc. for years before I had a trailer.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,551
5,283
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
CZ

Welcome to the site.

Yes, 18X11 wheels are the popular size. Will you need camber plates to run these wheels with 305 takeoffs, most likely. What do you get with the plates? Adjustability, flexibility and extended tire wear. Our cars love 2+ degrees of camber to perform and for the tires to live longer. So you may spend $300.00+ on a set of plates. You will save that in tire wear. Without the camber you will eat up a set of front tires while going slower.

What would I do in your position?? Get a set of wheel/tires, add cooling to the front brakes. Buy good safety equipment; helmet, gloves, HANS (possibly). GET ON TRACK with a good instructor. Enjoy the car you have and then make other upgrades as the Car tells you it needs. Then you can buy a Watts Link. LOL. Just kidding Blacksheep1.
 
1,289
1,113
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Philly Metro Area
Granted the car as to be big enough , and the Mustang is, and I know quite a few folks who do that.
It is possible. It is also certain that my back will not survive my shoehorning all that stuff in & out LOL. Not to mention not clearing the speed bumps in and out of the development.

Did I mention I HATE speed bumps as much as Blacksheep hates Watts links...
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,496
8,493
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
You just click on the TireRack link, order 4 tire covers, put three tire/rims in the back sear, one in the trunk right next to your aluminum jack , your electric drill, some tools , 3 pairs of clean underwear ( one for each day of the weekend , plus one extra in case you scare the schist out of yourself ) , a few more clothes , tire gauge, and your helmet/gloves. You are ready to race and remember since all those things were packed in your car, you can tell all the TMO members there ,you forgot to bring your beer. Let's practice this phrase, " Since all of us are on TMO could you help out a buddy with a beer and I will catch you at the next event ." Make sure you post the track event on this Forum , that way if there are 6 or more fellow racers you can at least get up to a 6 pack. Heh, they will likely feel sorry for you because you don't have a trailer with all your gear and their sympathy will last until they realize you are beating all their times.
 
18
12
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Ladson South Carolina
You just click on the TireRack link, order 4 tire covers, put three tire/rims in the back sear, one in the trunk right next to your aluminum jack , your electric drill, some tools , 3 pairs of clean underwear ( one for each day of the weekend , plus one extra in case you scare the schist out of yourself ) , a few more clothes , tire gauge, and your helmet/gloves. You are ready to race and remember since all those things were packed in your car, you can tell all the TMO members there ,you forgot to bring your beer. Let's practice this phrase, " Since all of us are on TMO could you help out a buddy with a beer and I will catch you at the next event ." Make sure you post the track event on this Forum , that way if there are 6 or more fellow racers you can at least get up to a 6 pack. Heh, they will likely feel sorry for you because you don't have a trailer with all your gear and their sympathy will last until they realize you are beating all their times.
Is a boss 302 required for this luxury? 😂
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,496
8,493
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
Heck, no, CZ , use the sympathy clause with everyone or tell folks you are a newbie, novice, newcomer , rookie , etc. and you might even score a couple of beers ----until you beat them right out of the box, ha.
 
1,179
2,176
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
SoCal
If you don't mind me asking, what is your setup for brakes, tires, and wheels? Offsets, dimensions, reasons why, problems, what would you change etc?

I think someone mentioned this above - hit my build thread link below which is pretty detailed and up to date (for the moment!). You’ll see I use both 18X11 and 19x11 wheels - the reason is a really simple gearing change for different tracks. The 305/30-19 tires are approx. 3/4” taller than the same tire in 315/30-18, which shifts the RPM range just enough up or down so that I can hold a gear to the end of a straight without redline, etc.

I’m really happy with where the car is right now, and you’ll notice under power mods I’m bone stock from intake to oil pan, with the exception of a custom tune from Shaun at AED. Spend your money elsewhere, but leave the motor stock - it makes it even more rewarding when you’re faster than the p-car GT3’s, ZL1 1LE’s, etc.

One last thing that doesn’t get mentioned often - do your research and find someone in your area that specializes in sports cars track alignments, and have them get a good baseline setup on the car. All the mods in the world won’t make a difference if the car isn’t properly aligned and adjusted for the track. I underestimated the value of this mod, and this single handily made the most improvement in handling and faster lap times for me.
 

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