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Here goes my MASSIVE learning curve

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1,178
2,175
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
SoCal
Underwear? I thought all you guys with slicks drove Commando...😎

Seriously, the 3 tires in the backseat is for the young whippersnappers. Old fart me don't play that game anymore🤕♿. And there's still the speed bumps with all that weight.

Get yourself a Leroy Engineering trailer @Coz. I can always claim to be the fastest car at the track with a receiver hitch! (and only because @racer47 is in a different state!)

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1,178
2,175
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
SoCal
It would make for an easier install of a rear tow loop easier...

It’s really a shame that Blowfish Racing stopped making their “hidden hitch” - the receiver tube unbolts, and the kit includes a tow hook that bolts on in its place. I lucked out and got one of the last that American Muscle had in stock.

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531
364
sfo
It’s really a shame that Blowfish Racing stopped making their “hidden hitch” - the receiver tube unbolts, and the kit includes a tow hook that bolts on in its place. I lucked out and got one of the last that American Muscle had in stock.

View attachment 63106

It does not look complicated. I would just weld one up. Does that one require putting a hole in the bumper say behind the license plate? The tongue weight on a tire carrier has to be near nothing. Because of Cali I would build something connected to the car with a post to hold tires so you can avoid the trailer then drive 65mph legally.
 

racer47

Still winning after 30+ years
392
497
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
SE WI
Get yourself a Leroy Engineering trailer @Coz. I can always claim to be the fastest car at the track with a receiver hitch! (and only because @racer47 is in a different state!)

Haha. I even leave the receiver in just cause! I like your wing. I need one.
The blowfish hitch is nice. It does not require any extra holes anywhere just the 4 you see that go into the rear frame. My tongue wt is 30-40 lbs or so.

You can do it without a trailer as Pemberton said. I took out the passenger seat and the rear seat and the stock spare tire and jack. That opens up quite a bit of space for tires, jack, jack stands, tools, etc and saves the interior from damage. But loading hot, sticky, rock covered and brake dust covered tires/wheels into my car got old quick and I just built a tire trailer.

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Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
1,002
1,307
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
The Leroy Eng. trailers are gorgeous, and you get what you pay for, but if you're on a budget this trailer from Harbor Fright is the go-to for lots of autocrossers.
Most people add a plastic locking weatherproof box like this to hold tools, jack, etc.
 
77
83
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Minnesota
I was in a similar situation. I purchased 10" wheels first time around thinking " I'm new and slow, I wouldn't fully utilize 11" wheels anyway"....well as I got faster and my desire to continue to go faster, I ended up buying 11" wheels anyway.
My point is, why bother buying wheels twice. Get the 11" the first time and grow into them.

May I ask why you would prefer no spacer? I can't seem to think of a negative. You could get varying offsets for front and rear so you wouldn't need a spacer BUT then you will no longer be able to rotate your tires
Would strongly concur with spacer plan and running a square set and rotating. This will be especially important when you start running camber. I think flexibility will save you money over the long run and contribute to your performance.
 

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
939
712
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
a few miles east of Philly
I'd like to stay away from spacers because I'm not comfortable with the idea of having one to be honest. Just something that doesn't sit right with me; I've also heard spacers can fail at times which generally leads me back to the avoidance of them.
The kind of spacers that just fit over extended-length wheel studs aren't susceptible to failure.

The 'adapter' kind of spacer that bolts up to the hub where you then bolt your wheel up to it separately - those probably are subject to occasional failure, as you can't check the spacer to hub nut torque without removing the wheel first.


Norm
 
Welcome to the forum Christian,

I acknowledge being a few weeks late to the party... My brethren have made great recommendations about the usual stuff, ie: brake cooling ducts, tires, etc. But I didn't see a response about the transmission question. My 2008 Mustang cam equipped with a horrible TR-3650, 5-speed. When at the track it would randomly get stuck in gear until the rpm's dropped below 3,500. It was painful to drive. I swapped in a Tremec Magnum and it never gets stuck. It's not exactly the "hot knife through butter" that I hear about, but it will go into any gear at any time (careful). I had to swap my standard rear gears to the 3.73 ones, because first gear is not as tall in the new trans, but I see you've already done that one. I know, I know, it's over kill, mortals don't need a Magnum... But I like the feeling in my hand, so it was worth it to me.

Only three issues that I would share from my experience:
1. Needs a different driveshaft.
2. Reverse lock-out is needed, I used an aftermarket module, not a problem.
3. Careful with the clutch selection, my first was a dual disc and they make a HORRIBLE noise in 3rd and 4th (your results may vary).

Other than that, full throttle upshifts are attainable!

Good luck,
Charlie
 
In case no one responded to this point, the MGW race spec is 100% trans mounted. So if you go that route (which you should.... don’t even bother with a different shifter), there is no need for the blowfish bracket.
Going from a stock mt82 to one with a MGW race spec, to a Calimer stage 2 with said race spec, I can confidently say the shift feel going to the MGW is massive, and the feel of a Calimer trans is even more massive. Hears to hoping I don’t blow what will be my third mt82..... first two truly were bad luck, let’s hope thirds the lucky one.

As others said, tires, brake cooling, and seat time! I don’t pretend to be more knowledge then I am, without reading all of the responses I guarantee there is nothing I can add beyond what others likely said.

Oh, and more seat time ;). Did I mention seat time? More of it... Haha. The only mod that actually improved my lap times was a set of 200tw tires after I already had good pads and brake cooling. Having confidence in the braking system and then throwing a decent tire at it dropped my times in such a massive and frankly embarrassing way, the majority of the gains were clearly mental. Having confidence in the setup and just have the seat time for the mental part is a huge part of it.
 

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