High oil temp (overheating at track)

[2012-Boss]

The Airlift comes with instructions and you may be able to find them online. It is really simple to use. You insert it to the overflow tank opening, hook up the air compressor line, open a valve, and draw a 20 - 25 psi vacuum on the empty system, close the valve, and wait a few minutes to make sure the system holds vacuum. This is to make sure there are no leaks. You then disconnect the air compressor line and attach another fitting with a hose to a bucket of water / coolant, open the valve, and the system will fill on its own. When the vacuum gauge reads zero psi, your done. It does typically overfill the overflow tank, so I normally have to siphon some fluid back out.

 

[F.D. Sako]

Also, look into the honeycomb nomex radiator protector when you go with an open, or no grill.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?threads/nomex-honeycomb-radiator-protector.2180/

 

[SGwick]

Thanks for the new insight/suggested items.

My a/c (condenser) has been broken for a while and it'll cost $1k to fix. Have you guys removed your a/c system? if so, where did you get the a/c delete kit from?

 

[Tri-bar]

Pulled mine out, it helps with temp. There is no delete kit, I just made a block off plate out of ABS to plug the firewall hole.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Finally, are you sure that the cooling system is properly bleed? As ArizonaBoss alluded to above, you may have air pockets in the cooling system which will lead to overheating. Many of us use a tool called an Airlift to properly fill and bleed our cooling systems according to the OEM service instructions:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm going to have to try this myself; had some cooling (ECT) issues at the track this weekend in 90*F weather even w/ the new radiator. I had drained and refilled coolant a few times between events so I may have some trapped air. Also considering going to a 170*F thermostat to slow the build-up.
I'm also thinking to further box in the lower grille area to make sure the air is going to the radiator; I lost a couple of custom block-offs when I pulled out my original radiator.

 

[SGwick]

So I've noticed my fan never turns on. Even with warm engine oil temp (dash gauge) running a good 25-35 mins, ac on high, fan high, recirculating buttons pressed, engine fan still won't turn on. Looks like I need to track down failure point.

 

[Grant 302]

That sounds inconvenient.

Not sure if the newer cars can do it, but on my SN95 there were a pair of pins that you could jump on the CPU harness to command the high speed fans on. I had a single pole switch rigged to manually turn the fans on.

 

[Tri-bar]

SGwick,
Might want to check the plug that goes into the fan shroud on the right hand side. They have been know to go bad and burn. When it dose that it the fan stops working, I bought new pig tails but never put them on. I tightened the prongs in the connector and slid it back, use a small zip tie to hold it in place. Sometime the snap hold breaks, been working ever since.

 

[2012-Boss]

If you determine that the fan itself needs to be replaced, I would suggest FRPP M-8C607-MSVT, which is the OEM high output fan from the 2013-2014 GT500. You can purchase one for about $195.

http://www.tascaparts.com/cooling/c...L6yXCyf9us42SuvK5VIVOsZhQa3mE3a-oIaAgZa8P8HAQ

 

[SGwick]

Thanks guys, looks like I have another weekend project

 

[SGwick]

finished removing condensers and grill all without removing bumper (PITA). I checked/plugs and reconnected fan plug. Still didn't do electrical test (honestly not comfortable doing it). Mosport isn't until June so I have a little time to figure out game plan for the fan

 

[Stig_v5.0]

I know this is reviving a thread from a couple weeks ago but I just wanna chime in here where I'm useful as I have a bunch of general engine management experience and knowledge on the topic.

The 5.0L TiVCT v8 does not actually have an oil temperature sensor. None of the Fords to. The Oil temperature you see on the dashboard and the oil temperature that the ECU shows you via an SCT or other handheld data reader is purely a calculation based on inferences made by an algorithm in the ECU code. This algorithm uses coolant temp (CORRECTION: 5.0L does not have ECT sensor, just cylinder head temp, it also infers coolant temperature) data, driving conditions, and cylinder head temperature data (from the sensor that we DO have) and ambient/intake air temperature sensor data to calculate what engine oil temperature is at any given moment.

These models are extremely accurate for unmodified cars. Extremely. Back when I had my Focus ST, we had a lot of people that were modified and running hard on tracks and "overheating" the oil and going into limp mode. Adding external temperature probes found that the factory systems are extremely conservative when it comes to shutting you down into limp mode. They stop you way before you get yourself into trouble. If the temp "gauge" on the SCT says 280, it's likely not even close to 280, for example. This proved to be a problem, so people were installing aftermarket oil coolers and still getting shut down even though verified oil temperature was well within the safe range. That's because the car doesn't KNOW you have an aftermarket heat exchanger and doesn't know to calculate that heat loss into it's temperature model.

I've not seen the inside of a 5.0L engine code yet, but I have seen several ecoboost platform codes and done a handful of tunes myself and I know they all run Ford's HDFX management strategy. If that's the case and they are functionally identical strategies, I believe the oil temperature safety can be disabled. But it cannot be altered. I will have to boot up my software for the ecoboost platform and take a look through again to refresh my memory to make sure.

That all being said, once you turn that off, it's entirely up to you to monitor it, you cannot use the dashboard gauge or the PP cluster data as a monitor once you modify the coolant or engine oil cooling systems as that disrupts the accuracy of the math model that gave you that temp in the first place. You'll have to install a separate oil temperature sensor and a separate gauge and monitor it yourself if you want to turn of the safety.

 

[mnmike59]

Now that is some excellent information.
Anyone know if the S550s have the same setup from the factory? If so, I might be in for some work.

 

[Stig_v5.0]

I'm not positive, but I can't imagine it being much different. There's no real reason for them to change their setup when it works extremely well for a completely stock car, which is what it's used for.

 

[SGwick]

Update: Found my oil leaks turns out it was both hoses going into the AN fittings (CoolTech cooler kit), so I taped/cut/rethread/connected back to oil cooler...so far so good. Also drained my radiator, 2 water wetter's and all DI water, and installed 302S grill. Went for a drive and no issues but we'll see. Next trackday is in June.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

SGwick

Good find on the oil leaks. Were those lines included in the CoolTech Oil Cooler Kit and were they pre-assembled by CoolTech?

Glad you were able to find the oil leak and repair it quickly before anything catastrophic happened.

Thanks for the update.
302 Hi Pro

 

[SGwick]

Were those lines included in the CoolTech Oil Cooler Kit and were they pre-assembled by CoolTech?

Yes, included and preassembled. Kendall from CoolTech was nice enough to offer to replace them if I continued to have the leak. I'll findout in June

 

[mnmike59]

I think I would prefer to assemble my own after that.
I installed the MMR Trax Pack Oil cooler kit. So far so good.

 

[SGwick]

I think I would prefer to assemble my own after that.
I installed the MMR Trax Pack Oil cooler kit. So far so good.

yeah, after watching it on YT and trying myself, it's pretty simple.

 

[TymeSlayer]

Just as an FYI - I ordered the latest CoolTech w/Thermostat kit and got an email and a refund since they just currently changed the design.

"
Hi Kirk,

Thank you for the order of the Boss 302 Oil Cooler Kit. We have just made an improvement for the kit and in-process to update the website. The good news is that with Setrab's introduction of a thermostatic sandwich plate adapter for the Boss, we can simplify the install and reduce components. No longer do we need to have 4 hoses (8 expensive hose ends) and a remote filter. This improves installation time and by cutting down on the number of components, it reduces any remote chances of failure. Best of all, we can offer this kit less expensively - essentially the same price as our non-thermostatic kit (which we will be eliminating). As such, I will be refunding you $200 on your purchase.

Please note that I have asked Setrab to ship the heat exchanger, thermostatic sandwich plate, and oil line adapters to you directly. The lines, brackets, and instructions are shipping today from us.

Please email me if any questions.

Best regards,
Kendall"