Honey Badger's road course prep conversion thread and adventures

Discussion in 'Road Racing Forum' started by honeybadger, Jun 25, 2019.

  1. honeybadger

    honeybadger TMO Advanced

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    Hi all -

    Been lurking and harassing folks in their threads long enough. This is in by no means a new journey, but getting ready to really dive deep and figured it would be good to start a dedicated thread. Lots of extremely knowledgeable folks here that I'd love some guidance from along the way :)

    Current;y, the car is still in mostly street trim with the exception of a few safety upgrades and some fun go fast parts. The plan is to cage the car this winter and really go bananas. In the mean time, I plan to start taking smaller steps in preparation for that work.

    Just got back from (2) days at VIR and then (2) at Road Atlanta and one thing is evident (outside the new motor being pure insanity) - car needs weight loss.

    6242.jpg



    I'd like to start an agressive weight loss program. Can ya'll provide some recommendations on easy wins outside of seats, driveshaft, and battery? I am thinking about stripping the interior in phases this summer in between track days. Outside of removing interior body panels and stripping the doors, what else can I do? Anyone have insight into what modules/wires are required to stay in the car? Running an aftermarket tune, but it's on the stock ECU.
     
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  2. JAJ

    JAJ TMO Addict

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    Carbon fiber rims and CCB brakes will get you close to 100 pounds off the unsprung parts of the car compared to stock. It costs about $250 a pound though...
     
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  3. honeybadger

    honeybadger TMO Advanced

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    Got the Sig 19x11 which come in at 20lbs, so good on wheels. Am interested in brakes in the future. Really would like to be able to run 18s when I go down that route. The CCBs utilize the OEM calipers, correct? Haven't fully decided if this car will go into NASA racing or time attack, yet. Part of me wants to go to time attack and just go completely nuts and build the rowdiest car I can, but part of me wants to go NASA racing.

    I'm leaning towards rowdy GT350 and then building an FFR daytona coupe to take W2W racing. At least that's how I am leaning at the moment.

    All this to say, I haven't decided whether to chase maximum weight loss or compromise with longevity/running costs.
     
  4. JAJ

    JAJ TMO Addict

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    The info is hard to find on the RB website, but in addition to the front/rear kit I have that works with the stock calipers, they also make a 380mm front/380mm rear kit with bespoke forged racing calipers specifically designed to fit under 18" rims. The racing front calipers are machined specifically for the GT350 - they bolt straight onto the knuckle for the 380mm rotors, and you can insert a short spacer if you want to run the 394mm stock rotor size. The rear racing setup is like the rest of the racing setups - it doesn't have a handbrake. The RB racing calipers are radial mount top-loaders.
     
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  5. honeybadger

    honeybadger TMO Advanced

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    Damn - that's a hell of an investment. Serious weight savings, tho. Wonder how long a set of CCBs and pads would last? I get back about 6-8 days out of a set right now (~$900 for the pads/rotors in the front). Obviously, weight savings would need to be factored into the justification. But could you go an entire year or beating the hell out of the rotors/pads without needing to replace them? Assuming 16+ track days at full tilt?

    If you could, would be a very interesting proposition for an all-out build.

    https://www.racingbrake.com/RB-CCB-System-Kit-380-380-Carbon-Ceramic-Rotors-p/rccb-for-01.htm
     
  6. JAJ

    JAJ TMO Addict

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    Call Warren and ask him - he designed and built the kit for a racing team and presumably they've run a season or so on it. CCB's tend to outlast iron, and the number I've heard is around 4:1, but it's possible that it would be even longer if you're running the XC40 sintered pads. Those pads are amazing, by the way. Truly hand of your-favorite-deity braking.
     
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  7. the5

    the5 TMO Race

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    Carbon Doors Save close to 75 lbs PER stock door and and Glass.
     
  8. honeybadger

    honeybadger TMO Advanced

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    Thanks for the tip. I'll have to investigate. And I have to imagine the more weight I can remove the longer they'll last as well.

    This is on the list. Actually just a had a quick jack get loose in the trailer and do a real number on the passenger door/fender. ugh.

    I see Anderson has a fiberglass door for over $1K less than CF - anyone have insight into using fiberglass vs. CF for doors?
     
  9. the5

    the5 TMO Race

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    You can call Anderson and ask, But if Im spending money I spring for the Carbon.
     
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  10. JDee

    JDee Ancient Racer

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    Fibreglass = heavy! CF=not so much.
    Fibreglass = cheaper CF=not so much.
     
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  11. honeybadger

    honeybadger TMO Advanced

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    $1,800 for FG, $2,899 for wet carbon, and $3999 for dry carbon. Brutal!

    Weight difference between FG and wet carbon is like .1 lbs. Dry carbon is 3lbs lighter, tho.
     
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  12. blacksheep-1

    blacksheep-1 TMO Addict

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    If they hand lay up the glass with directional weave, and pull all the extra resin out, you can get glass pretty light, the doors will be like paper but as long as the structural areas like the hinges and catch are reinforced, who cares. Just make sure you run side bars because you'll be taking all the side guard protection off the car. Don't just concentrate on impact items, there's plenty of stuff out there that can puncture and glass of CF will do nothing to stop that. I used to throw some Kevlar into my stuff just for that reason, but then we get right back to weight.
    Replacing all the glass will be a huge benefit because it's not only heavy, it's also high in the chassis, before someone says "I did that and only save … pounds" you need to replace all the glass and gut the doors. You'll save quite a bit..this is where the discussion usually goes to "do you want a streetable car or a race car?" The doors in all the Phoenix cars weigh nothing and it's basically free because they use the stock doors by the rules.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2019
  13. honeybadger

    honeybadger TMO Advanced

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    Howdy ya'll!

    Update time. Video of the update. Journal entry below :)



    Did some mid-season updates in between events since it's too hot to do anything else down here. I had some header rubbing issues, so I decided to remove the headers, do some clearancing, and then get them coated in thermal coating to compare to the exhaust wrap. Turned out to be a TON more than I bargained for since I learned you can't remove the headers with the engine in the car when you have the FP350S oil pan. It gets in the way and I was unable to find the pathway I needed to get it out. So, a day later and a ton of swearing, the engine was back on the ground. At least I had good access now. Areas where the engine was torquing over and contact the frame rails.

    IMG_6377.jpg IMG_6378.jpg
    Headers complete.
    IMG_6359.jpg

    After shorting out the starter capacitor at COTA in May, I also made sure to add a heat shield to the starter.
    IMG_6360.jpg

    Next, I wanted a cleaner heater core delete than just connecting the OEM hoses. These ran hot coolant lines around the back of the engine, aiding in heat soak, and risking dumpoiing coolant where it would be very hard to see/keep track of. Instead, I bought (2) new quik-lok connectors and some hose. This is still a temp fix as I plan to permanently fix with AN fittings at a later date.
    IMG_6357.jpg

    Lastly, we have a last minute add on, the oil lines that run between the heads that Ford Performance added to the FP350S engine. My understanding is this mod helps encourage oil movement between the heads under high lateral g load and keeps oil moving to keep the heads cooler. I tested at MSR-C on Friday saw that CHTs were only hitting 221-223 during a 25 min session vs. 236+, so appears to be working well so far.

    Parts used:
    - 1/4 npt to -6an elbow - EAR-AT982206ERL- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at982206erl

    - -6an to tube adapter - EAR-AT165106ERL - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at165106erl

    - Earls 3/8in tubing - ZZ661625ERL - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-zz661625erl

    - DEI 3/8 Firesleeve - DEI-010473 - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010473

    I also completed a CMCV/IRMC lockout for better clearance and a tighter fit. With Shaun at AED updating my tune, the car ran great and the change was only noticeable at really low RPM (800-2000). Once on track, I didn't notice any difference.

    IMG_6364.jpg IMG_6368.jpg IMG_6372.jpg IMG_6373.jpg

    Last lastly, I replaced my engine harness (again) since I had another plug fail on me. I decided to replace the one on the car and carry a spare in case stuff goes wrong again on a trip and I can quickly swap them out. Some footage from recent events coming next :)
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2019
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  14. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    Nice work!
     
  15. ArizonaBOSS

    ArizonaBOSS Because racecar. Moderator

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    Excellent write up and thank you for the links. I will plan on doing the crossovers during my end-of-year refresh.
     
  16. honeybadger

    honeybadger TMO Advanced

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    Thanks, Rick!

    Welcome! Definitely worth the effort!
     

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