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Hoosier wear

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8,180
Were you able to check the bump steer? If not you may be in for a surprise under hard braking, especially if you have gotten used to that amount of toe out, it might get a little "darty"
As far as running the tires in the same direction it is a cord issue within the tire that eventually becomes a problem especially with take offs.
IMO (and if you take my advice and crash I will not be responsible) the "44 on the sidewall" probably refers to a max load setting, I'm thinking it's a little conservative. In any case at the extremes is where the benefits of nitrogen become apparent, air, especially air with a high humidity content, tend to skew the upper pressures to a higher level.
As far as the toe..I'm going to do a how-to one of these days on a 1 person toe gauge for you guys, I just haven't had time.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
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1,924
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
Rob
Why do you think the car will get darty under braking with 0 toe? Didn't check bump because I wasn't able to be there and they wouldn't do it right if I wasn't.
Did have all adjustments made with a comparably weighted man in the driver's seat. Back to the toe question, under compression don't strut cars gain negative camber and toe out slightly? I have tall ball joints and bump steer tie rod ends to compensate for the lower a arm angle due to lowering springs. My experience with this car is it is more stable with less toe out under braking and a less responsive at turn in. I will be careful during first session and try to pick up on changes in feel with latest set up.
BTW I use toe plates, 2 tapes and a 12" block to garage check toe and a LongAcre digital camber gauge for camber. Don't have turn plates to check caster yet.
Thanks for the input
Steve
 
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8,180
Steve that's a general statement it all depends on the location of the rack height, front or rear steer configuration, and other factors, a lot figures in to this which is why I prefer to measure it. Normally toe out cures all ills and settles the steering, too much toe in and the car becomes very "pointy" There,s really no absolute toe setting because the car is always dynamic, the best you can do is assign it a number at the normal ride height, then at a predetermined bump under compression and another under rebound. This can be measured under compression by using a tie wrap around the strut shaft on most applications. (or you can find more expensive ways to do it). rebound is another matter but is usually not as critical as compression. (unless you run a drag car, then the priorities are opposite). Once you find compression then remove or let off the spring nuts to lower the car to that ride height and check toe again. Once you find a happy medium return the car to it's original ride height. and recheck the toe at that level. Sometimes I remove the springs entirely and use a jack to raise and lower the car. It's a PITA but usually well worth it and sometimes pretty enlightening..it all depends on where that tie wrap ends up..lol.
 

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