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How accurate is the air/fuel reading in the 2013 cluster?

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Just wondering about the accuracy of the air/fuel reading in the 2013 readout.
Everything seems to be running fine, but a buddy of mine said since I changed the axel backs to Borla ATAKs I might be at risk for running to lean.

I have been stating at 13.9 to 14.6 while driving, and when off the throttle it goes to 20.

Currently only running Track Key tune, but thinking about Kooks Headers and H-pipe or X-pipe to make the beast "louder". Obviously with those additions a custom tune is required. But should I have to get a custom time for just the new axel backs?
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
dont worry you dont need a tune for axle backs. off throttle it will shoot up to super lean thats normal. only worry about full throttle. the car's computer will compensate for any exhaust changes you make even headers. it runs via a commanded a/f so it will adjust fuel to make it right. when you change the maf housing size is when a tune is needed.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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Justin said:
dont worry you dont need a tune for axle backs. off throttle it will shoot up to super lean thats normal. only worry about full throttle. the car's computer will compensate for any exhaust changes you make even headers. it runs via a commanded a/f so it will adjust fuel to make it right. when you change the maf housing size is when a tune is needed.

Bingo!

Only time you NEED a tune is when the sampling size passing the MAF sensor is changed from stock. Downstream of the MAF the wide band O2 sensors will make A/F ratio changes based on the stock tables. Now if you want to change the A/F tables to richer or leaner, or if you want to change the spark timing curve or any of the other 100 parameters that can be modified then you need a tune.
 
So even if I got KOOKS Long Tube Headers, X-Pipe installed I don't have to get it tuned at all? Should I at least get it Dynoed to make sure its running correctly with the new parts?
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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1,924
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W2W Racing
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10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
You don't need the tune but to maximize the performance you might want to have it done. Dyno run to check gains and also to verify the A/F ratio at WOT is a good idea, plus you want to see how much HP you got for your $. ;)
You will also be able to cros check the track apps A/F numbers, they should be very accurate as its picked up directly from the ECU/O2 sensors on the car not just sutck in the tail pipe.
Post numbers when you do it.
Steve
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
rpm3dinc said:
So even if I got KOOKS Long Tube Headers, X-Pipe installed I don't have to get it tuned at all? Should I at least get it Dynoed to make sure its running correctly with the new parts?
just remember you will more then likely get a check engine light if you go with aftermarket cats. Car will run fine just have to deal with the light. With a tune this can be turned off.

With a hand held tuner you can data log yourself the a/f, knock spark advance. No need to rent a dyno. This is how AED does tunes for you remotely you data log for him send him the file he sends you a custom tune for your car not a canned tune.

Curious why you want to go with the kooks? They are more like a mid length headers. I just installed the American racing headers with off road x-pipe with side pipe hook ups. Sounds amazing and has a great design. Full length as well.
 
Kooks is local here in NC, and many of my mustang buddies have them and they sound great.
I am mainly wanting a super loud/deep Lopey Idle, hopefully without putting Thumper Cams in. The BOSS just seems like it should have that Race Cam sound, and while the track key is decent, the lope just doesn't sound like a BOSS should sound.

I know I can simply get a Lopey idle tune, but I want this thing to scare women and children when I drive by. It's my toy and Show Car, so I will likely never track it, just lots of spirited driving and cruising.

I do want to be able to keep the TrackKey tune as well, and I have a LiveWire SCT tuner for my custom V6 stang. So I could dump the memory in it and use it on the BOSS.

The perfect thing would be to have the TrackKey performance with a really Lopey (Race Cam style) idle.

The Kooks system (Headers and x or h pipe is roughly $1,500. And Dyno tune is $325.

I have plenty of power with the 444, just want the sound to go with it.

My Borla ATAK exhaust was a good start, now just want to build on it.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
rpm3dinc said:
Kooks is local here in NC, and many of my mustang buddies have them and they sound great.
I am mainly wanting a super loud/deep Lopey Idle, hopefully without putting Thumper Cams in. The BOSS just seems like it should have that Race Cam sound, and while the track key is decent, the lope just doesn't sound like a BOSS should sound.

I know I can simply get a Lopey idle tune, but I want this thing to scare women and children when I drive by. It's my toy and Show Car, so I will likely never track it, just lots of spirited driving and cruising.

I do want to be able to keep the TrackKey tune as well, and I have a LiveWire SCT tuner for my custom V6 stang. So I could dump the memory in it and use it on the BOSS.

The perfect thing would be to have the TrackKey performance with a really Lopey (Race Cam style) idle.

The Kooks system (Headers and x or h pipe is roughly $1,500. And Dyno tune is $325.

I have plenty of power with the 444, just want the sound to go with it.

My Borla ATAK exhaust was a good start, now just want to build on it.
i have tried a few exhaust combos and the cat deletes were super loud. Here is my car with the American racing headers
[youtube]http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=plcp&v=wP2uXLzXbHI[/youtube]

With cat deletes
[youtube]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=e7wtcoQSzLE[/youtube]

Now this is with stock with gt500 mufflers and a jlp idle tune. Not very driveable but sounds awesome. It runs like it has actual big cams in it down low.

[youtube]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9wYmkeeBAq0[/youtube]
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
Now the AED lopey idle tune sounds good is driveable and doesn't stall a million times while driving it.

Jlp big cam idle tune.....sounded good incredibly hard to drive
Steeda lopey idle tune sounded decent but kept stalling and it felt like the tune lost power over the reg idle tune
AED lopey idle is very close to trackey (I had trackey for a while) drives great doesn't lose power and doesn't stall. The lope shakes the car and can be heard from a good distance.

I would get with Shaun at AED and see how he can get you in the direction you want to go tune wise. You can always just do what I do is pay for three dyno pulls data log it and send it to Shaun. I trust him with my car.
 
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Im trying to figure out if my wide-band O2 sensors are working correctly. With just LTs, x-pipe, and no cats im getting a P0155 CEL. Its says B2S1 Heater Circuit. Does this mean the wide-band O2 sensor for the passenger side is not working?

If it is an extension issue, anyone tried re-routing the stock harness around the transmission? I heard there is enough wire there to avoid the extensions all-together.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
sadil said:
Im trying to figure out if my wide-band O2 sensors are working correctly. With just LTs, x-pipe, and no cats im getting a P0155 CEL. Its says B2S1 Heater Circuit. Does this mean the wide-band O2 sensor for the passenger side is not working?

If it is an extension issue, anyone tried re-routing the stock harness around the transmission? I heard there is enough wire there to avoid the extensions all-together.
i dont know if that is your issue but if you pull the harness of the posts that secure it to the bell housing you will indeed have enough slack for front O2's and can ditch the extensions. easiest to access from the top of the engine.
 

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