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How to bleed the clutch fluid?

Motive Products sells an adapter that works really well, but it is pricey. You can also buy a spare reservoir cover and tap it for a hose then seal where the hose goes in with some sort of epoxy (I don't know which are safe for brake fluid). Or go to Ace/Home Depot type place, they should have rubber stoppers that are beveled and would work but you will need to put a hole for the tube.

Motive has a Ford one, but the GM/Ford is the one for Mustangs. Use the thicker of the two gaskets they include, if you get it.

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Black-Label-GMFord-3-Tab-Adapter-1118_p_105.html
 

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
CaliMR said:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=925&viewfile=Clutch%20System%20Bleeding.pdf


As posted in the other thread
What's the deal reading this website? Do you need to know what the secret handshake or password is to read info here?
 
I don't know, it has always worked for me.

Try the base link, then click through the menus to find things. It is hard to find things sometimes is why I post the page directly

http://iihs.net/fsm/
 

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
CaliMR said:
I don't know, it has always worked for me.

Try the base link, then click through the menus to find things. It is hard to find things sometimes is why I post the page directly

http://iihs.net/fsm/
Cali

I tried the base link. All that I see is a large box that asks to "donate" to PayPal. I'm thinking about starting my own web site asking people to donate to me!...it would beat working for a living.

MMD
 
There should be links on the left side, in text, and you click through those to get to the images.

Maybe try a different browser, it works for me on Firefox


ClutchBleeding.jpg
 
The arrow shows the links, you have to keep clicking them until you get to the actual page. It does not let you open the whole thing or browse sections, only one specific section at a time.

manual.jpg
 
Hmmmmm Help me here.
Step 6 says to fill the reservoir to max and install the cap.
Steps 7 and 8 involve pumping the clutch pedal.
Step 9 says to install the cap ?????
So... should the items in step 7 and 8 be performed with the cap on or off?
Thanks.
-- Jim
 
YellowJacketBoss302 said:
Hmmmmm Help me here.
Step 6 says to fill the reservoir to max and install the cap.
Steps 7 and 8 involve pumping the clutch pedal.
Step 9 says to install the cap ?????
So... should the items in step 7 and 8 be performed with the cap on or off?
Thanks.
-- Jim

Jim, I doubt it makes a difference. I asked several races teams about bleeding brakes with the cap on or off. Some swear by leaving it off and others say leave it on. Yet other teams told me it does not matter. I walked away thinking I would continue to leave mine on because of the moisture the fluid can absorb while the cap is off.
 
I did it with the cap on, and it worked well.

2012, do they bleed the brakes with a vacuum at the caliper or pumping the brakes?
 
CaliMR said:
I did it with the cap on, and it worked well.

2012, do they bleed the brakes with a vacuum at the caliper or pumping the brakes?

I heard some use vacuum type bleeders at the shop but most, if not all, do it by foot at the track. This along with finding wet speed bleeders on my car has convinced me to pull them off for good.
 
I have been hearing really bad things about them on Mustangs, about how they damage the calipers inside because they don't mate correctly with the bevel inside the hole. I also know a guy who had one burst at the track recently so I am avoiding them. Sucks, because they would have been really nice to have.
 
CaliMR said:
I have been hearing really bad things about them on Mustangs, about how they damage the calipers inside because they don't mate correctly with the bevel inside the hole. I also know a guy who had one burst at the track recently so I am avoiding them. Sucks, because they would have been really nice to have.
Bad things about what part are you talking about?
 
Speedbleeders. I know some people here have them and like them, but there have been reports of them damaging the beveled face inside the calipers on the Brembo GTs which are the same calipers we have iirc, because the bevel is a different angle than ours. I have not personally seen it, but I have seen enough people mention it that it is something I would worry about. It seems they have to be tightened down really hard which mars the surface where the two different bevels meet and if you later go back to stock bleeders it will leak. Unless they have since released one with a different bevel.

Also have seen a couple go bad, and my friends that race have warned me they have seen quite a few burst. I doubt it is common enough to worry about unless you are racing, but it is another thing to add to the possible caliper damage.

Anyone with conflicting info please go ahead and post it up, as the bevel is just hearsay from googling it and peeking at other forums.
 
Ah speed bleeder why would you want them there is not that much of a hurry to get it done if you are bleeding at the track it should only be from a crash ;D
 

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