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How to Properly Jack/Lift Your Boss

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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I use a similar post made by Lethal Performance and welded it on the rocker center/front and use it as single jack point for each side. 4 pumps and I have both wheels off the ground for a tire change, or can lift the car as high as the jack can go to set stands front and back. No deformation observed so I am comfortable with it. I also have used all the red and green areas at one time and the only problem was with the rear of the K member, the location at the 2 bolts oil canned in on me on the drivers side, don't do that anymore :-\
Steve
 
Thanks, I was just about to order one. Will it fit in one of the openings in from of the side exhaust?
[/quote]

Not without some trimming.

The other openings are too small for the insert.

George
 
This is also a front lifting point, it is something Mr. Wilson designed into the K frame.
1000.jpg


As for me I also lift at the pinch weld. On the front as pictured and the rear just ahead of the side pipes. If needed I use jack stands with wood blocks on the inside frane rails, that is different from what is pictured. If I had a lift I would lift from this point. On the back I use jack stands on the axle tubes.

It was stated by Ford not to lift from the rear, I don't do this but I am not sure of the reason. It may be if the jack is not place correctly it could damage the cover.
 
2012YellowBoss said:
This is also a front lifting point, it is something Mr. Wilson designed into the K frame.
1000.jpg


As for me I also lift at the pinch weld. On the front as pictured and the rear just ahead of the side pipes. If needed I use jack stands with wood blocks on the inside frane rails, that is different from what is pictured. If I had a lift I would lift from this point. On the back I use jack stands on the axle tubes.

It was stated by Ford not to lift from the rear, I don't do this but I am not sure of the reason. It may be if the jack is not place correctly it could damage the cover.

Scott. Looks like you are indicating the corrugated section of the K member as being a valid jack point – right? I guess you would use a 2X4 on the jack? I like that point as it would allow one to lift the entire front end.

I am having a problem (not related to the point above) using my jack stands either on the pinch welds or the “green” frame points. Both require a wood block of some kind and neither a 2X4 nor the small wood block I cut to fit square openings by the pinch welds fit securely in the notches on my stands. Do you have a close up picture of how you support the wood blocks with your stands?

Thanks.
-- Jim
 
YellowJacketBoss302 said:
Scott. Looks like you are indicating the corrugated section of the K member as being a valid jack point – right? I guess you would use a 2X4 on the jack? I like that point as it would allow one to lift the entire front end.

Yes, that is correct. I have not used it but would guess it is a great spot to lift the car on an alignment type lift.
YellowJacketBoss302 said:
I am having a problem (not related to the point above) using my jack stands either on the pinch welds or the “green” frame points. Both require a wood block of some kind and neither a 2X4 nor the small wood block I cut to fit square openings by the pinch welds fit securely in the notches on my stands. Do you have a close up picture of how you support the wood blocks with your stands?

No pics, I just have a 3 or 4 inch block cut from a 2x4 and place it on the jack stand. Then I put it under the frame rail or pinch weld. I never looked at cutting it for a special area or notches. I think Harbor Freight also sells pads to fit on the jack stands like I have for the jack itself.
 
I just tried to lift the car, are you guys using flat top jack stands? I was using a non flat top jack stand and my 2x4 pieces were getting crushed pretty good. Enough so that I gave up and decided to ask on BMO. :)
 

drano38

Wayne
1,129
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I jack on the pinch weld with a hockey puck on the jack pad. Eventually you'll cut thru the puck.
For jack stands, the rear go on the axle tube.
Front, I use aluminum race jack stands on the inner unibody--the "2x4" place in the second post.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/aluminum+jack+stands.do?sortby=ourPicks
I put an oak board on top of the jack stand with groves cut out to match the raised edge on the jack stand pad.
Similar jack stands are available on Amazon, and other retailers.
 
I used the scissor jack from my wife's edge. works perfectly in the factory slots in the rockers around the pinch weld...just like a factory mustang jack would. but I've only done wheel change stuff so far, so one wheel at a time has been sufficient.
 
Just a word of caution to those of you that use the k-member or diff to lift your cars. I used to do this when I was in a hurry to lift and get to work, but I realized my mistake when I started to see the car shift laterally and looked at my floor jack. It was not yet about to tip over, but it scared the crap out of me as it was definitely beginning to twist. I realized that it would not take much more for it to go over completely, and although I wasn't under the car, of course, because I ALWAYS use stands, it could have tipped over and it would have been a bad object for the car to land on.
 
Does anyone use the front pinch points? I was going to do it, but the plastic molding hangs down further than the pinch and feels like it will break if I put the lift under it. So I use the front frame rail but I can't find a jack low enough to fit under with a 2x4 on top so I use a 1x4. I also had to remove the cup from my jack otherwise the 1x4 wouldn't fit either. The HF low jack that is small is always out of stock.
 
Yes I use the front pinch welds, lift from the middle at the track to change two tires and the pinch from the rear. Never had a problem or damage, the plastic rocker will move out of the way and not be damaged. I also use a plastic cover on the floor jack to ensure no damage to paint etc.
 
I used to use a hockey puck but I had one deform enough that it damaged a pinch slightly on another car. The 2x4s seem to work a lot better as they are more rigid but still soft enough not to bend the pinch.
 

yknot

Hobbies: Hot Rods & Shooting
Just to help clear up one question about the newer Boss's having arrows that point to lift points...I have a 2013 purchased on 06-25-12 # 1225, and it has no such arrows or lettering. I have already had to lift the car, as I installed a set of electric exhaust cut-outs, and I see the delimbia everyone is talking about. I had a two post lift, but had to adjust the arms to the lowest point and not have the skirting hit the arms as it lifted the car. I did not use the pinch-weld area, but I did use the flats just behind them both front and back. I pinch weld area would be fine for the front, but I think not for the rear as the rear of the side exhaust exits right where you would want your lift pad. Personally, I never like lifting any car from one centrally located point, like the center of the rear end or front cross member, just to much weight in one area, for these very lightly braced cars. Also, never get under one such car with only the jack supporting it, like the guy who mentioned it was tipping. I suppose if you don't lift there on those points, you will not have to worry about damage to the rear cover , tipping or bending something. I would stay with the pinch weld areas, or very close to them, like somewhere the suspension pick-up point lies, but not on that point itself.
besides that, I think the new car is a wonderful driver and a lot of fun.
 

Sesshomurai

I have the front of my '12 boss on race ramps and need to jack the rear end and put it on jack stands.

As is pointed out, the rear rocker panel jack points are blocked by the side pipes and the next pinch point is somewhat near the center of the rocker panel, which I used once, but don't want to push it.

So the question remains. Where is the proper jack point on bosses? I don't think its been answered and the manual is wrong (because of the side pipes).

I'm ever tempted to use the diff to get the axle up and on stands because jacking one side and letting it rest on a jackstand while jacking the other side scares me a bit if the car shifts.

Can someone clarify this please?

Also, I read not to use the axle for jack stands.
 

BLAZN BOSS

FWI.......I have raised as many cars as you guys have seen on the highway. Jacking the car by the rearend housing is no different than any car OTHER THAN the aluminum cover. just dont let the jack rest on the cover at all..........the center of the rear end is in the center of the car......my jack is cupped and it won't slip there........done it a few times and no problem. as for the front my jack cant reach the center so I use the area wher the K frame bolts to the unibody........no problems. These pinch seams are very similar to older unibody mustangs and cracing them open and/or folding them over isn't an option for me. I dont have hocky pucks and I'm confident the front jacking area I mention before will suffice with absolutly no damage. ......but all this is my opinion
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
BLAZN BOSS said:
FWI.......I have raised as many cars as you guys have seen on the highway. Jacking the car by the rearend housing is no different than any car OTHER THAN the aluminum cover. just dont let the jack rest on the cover at all..........the center of the rear end is in the center of the car......my jack is cupped and it won't slip there........done it a few times and no problem. as for the front my jack cant reach the center so I use the area wher the K frame bolts to the unibody........no problems. These pinch seams are very similar to older unibody mustangs and cracing them open and/or folding them over isn't an option for me. I dont have hocky pucks and I'm confident the front jacking area I mention before will suffice with absolutly no damage. ......but all this is my opinion
I second that.
 
BLAZN BOSS said:
FWI.......I have raised as many cars as you guys have seen on the highway. Jacking the car by the rearend housing is no different than any car OTHER THAN the aluminum cover. just dont let the jack rest on the cover at all..........the center of the rear end is in the center of the car......my jack is cupped and it won't slip there........done it a few times and no problem. as for the front my jack cant reach the center so I use the area wher the K frame bolts to the unibody........no problems. These pinch seams are very similar to older unibody mustangs and cracing them open and/or folding them over isn't an option for me. I dont have hocky pucks and I'm confident the front jacking area I mention before will suffice with absolutly no damage. ......but all this is my opinion

Can you illustrate on the photos on page 1 where specifically on the housing you do/don't lift?
 

Sesshomurai

fduboss302 said:
BLAZN BOSS said:
FWI.......I have raised as many cars as you guys have seen on the highway. Jacking the car by the rearend housing is no different than any car OTHER THAN the aluminum cover. just dont let the jack rest on the cover at all..........the center of the rear end is in the center of the car......my jack is cupped and it won't slip there........done it a few times and no problem. as for the front my jack cant reach the center so I use the area wher the K frame bolts to the unibody........no problems. These pinch seams are very similar to older unibody mustangs and cracing them open and/or folding them over isn't an option for me. I dont have hocky pucks and I'm confident the front jacking area I mention before will suffice with absolutly no damage. ......but all this is my opinion

Can you illustrate on the photos on page 1 where specifically on the housing you do/don't lift?

The problem with the photos on page 1 is that its not a boss. There are no side pipes, so that photo is misleading and should be removed and replaced with an actual photo of a boss. IMO.
 

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