How's the wear?

[cobrarob]

Ran 2 days at Watkins, how do these look?
305/35r18 on 11's. Pressures were 37-40! Most of the
sessions were 38 average.

 

[Mad Hatter]

Do you have any neg camber???

 

[cobrarob]

Yes. 2.5 and zero toe.

 

[F.D. Sako]

Looks normal to me 8)

38psi hot is a nice spot for the NT01's. Based on your pics, you're using all of the thread, so your cold-hot pressures are working nicely for the track and your suspension setup.
As for the difference in wear appearance, it's there because you're not "flattening" the scrubbed edge when driving slowly around the paddock, unlike the rest of the thread that's making contact with the road.

That's my take on it. Someone with more tire knowledge will hopefully correct me - if i'm wrong :

 

[cobrarob]

Thanks FD Sako,With the repave,the track had alot of grip.Tires felt good but as a lot of guys said,they wander cause of their softness. You kinda get use to it thou! Any advice on rotation?
I know front to back, but can I do side to side?

 

[F.D. Sako]

The soft sidewall is something you'll get used to and compensate for, just like you mentioned. Right before turn-in, you can turn the steering wheel a small amount to load the outside tire and have the sidewall take shape before placing full load on it. I've found out this method minimizes the feel of side-wall flex, along with understeer. Based on my experience, NT01s are about 3-3.5sec faster than the Hankook RS3s that I ran previously.

No problems with rotating the NT01's side to side. I usually check the tires after every session to see which tire is doing the most "work" (based on temp, pressure and outer edge wear). Then I rotate the tires that are doing the least "work" with the tires that is doing the most... hope that made sense
I've found this method of tire rotation gives me the longest life out of the tires. Of course, this method works when running square. Were you running a square setup?

 

[cobrarob]

Very cool I'll try that method of turning a littl before turn-in.
I kinda was running too hot into the corner and "scrubbing"
off soeed(as you can see), rather than slow in and fast out!
I'm goin back in June so I'll try that approach.

Yes I do run a square setup , but I'm running on Vorshlags
18x11(diff offset). So when I say side to side,I'm talkin
about takin off wheel and switching left to right( so those
Large blocks are actually on the insides now) If that make sense :-\ Lol

How's the repairs goin on your car

 

[Flyboygsxr]

If you rotate in an "X" pattern you can usually get the most life out of the tires...just don't try and rotate till everything is cooled off otherwise you'll break wheel studs. Some will disagree with rotating side to side because it cause the tire to rotate in the opposite direction. I don't rotate side to side on my DD but I do on the Boss just to get the most wear out of the tires. Good luck

Adam

 

[cobrarob]

If you rotate in an "X" pattern you can usually get the most life out of the tires...just don't try and rotate till everything is cooled off otherwise you'll break wheel studs. Some will disagree with rotating side to side because it cause the tire to rotate in the opposite direction. I don't rotate side to side on my DD but I do on the Boss just to get the most wear out of the tires. Good luck

Adam

Thanks

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Good reminder on tire rotation, I'll throw this in the mix when I get time to do my rear suspension Cortex install. I run a 19X9.0" and 19X10" setup, so side to side rotation for me, and IIRC, as per our Boss 302 Supplemental Manual.

Totally forgot about this, so thanks guys for the reminder.
All the Best, and Good Racing,
302 Hi Pro

 

[F.D. Sako]

Very cool I'll try that method of turning a littl before turn-in.
I kinda was running too hot into the corner and "scrubbing"
off soeed(as you can see), rather than slow in and fast out!
I'm goin back in June so I'll try that approach.

Yes I do run a square setup , but I'm running on Vorshlags
18x11(diff offset). So when I say side to side,I'm talkin
about takin off wheel and switching left to right( so those
Large blocks are actually on the insides now) If that make sense :-\ Lol

How's the repairs goin on your car

Pretty sure the NT01's are asymmetrical (when the threads are visible), so you shouldn't have any problem rotating them side-to-side. The bigger blocks will always face outside (sidewall only indicates outside/inside, not rotation direction).

My car's still in the body shop
Everything's done except the hood stripe. They only waited 24hrs between paint and applying the stripes, it bubbled bad. So, we're waiting for the new stripes. Hopefully, I'll get it back on tuesday!

 

[cobrarob]

Pretty sure the NT01's are asymmetrical (when the threads are visible), so you shouldn't have any problem rotating them side-to-side. The bigger blocks will always face the outside (sidewall only indicates outside/inside, not rotation direction).

My car's still in the body shop
Everything's done except the hood stripe. They only waited 24hrs between paint and applying the stripes, it bubbled bad. So, we're waiting for the new stripes. Hopefully, I'll get it back on tuesday!

Very nice! Hopefully it works out as planned! Enjoy the car,have fun

 

[blacksheep-1]

To me, it looks like it needs a bunch of negative camber, this is where a tire pyrometer and a buddy in the pits would be real helpful.
The issue is of course, how much negative camber to run and still have the tire work on the street for everyday driving.

 

[cobrarob]

To me, it looks like it needs a bunch of negative camber, this is where a tire pyrometer and a buddy in the pits would be real helpful.
The issue is of course, how much negative camber to run and still have the tire work on the street for everyday driving.

Thanks blacksheep for the replie in. I have 2.5 negcamber now,i tried to hog out the holes but the MM camber plates are maxed out!
I ran them at just under 37 hot for a couple of 1/2 hour sessions and prob was not enough to eat them up. Goin back in June and ill try a diff approach into the corners as on advice from FD Sako. Any kind of suspension mod to try as well ie... softer shock setting,etc? Thanks Rob

 

[Mad Hatter]

I killed a set of Conti GT-I tires in a few events. Peeled the outer edges with -2.4 camber. looking back I think running them at 36psi hot was a mistake. Should have kept them at 40 me thinks, To stop them rolling over.

I now keep my Dunlop DZ03's at 40 psi hot and they are wearing very even with -2.0 camber

 

[cobrarob]

I killed a set of Conti GT-I tires in a few events. Peeled the outer edges with -2.4 camber. looking back I think running them at 36psi hot was a mistake. Should have kept them at 40 me thinks, To stop them rolling over.

I now keep my Dunlop DZ03's at 40 psi hot and they are wearing very even with -2.0 camber

Yep,just lookin at my vids and noticing the "squell" goin into the corners! We chased pressures the first day,but the first 2 sessions they were at 40 hot when i came into the pits. they didnt seem to roll over as much but they got greasy towards the end of the session. Ill also bump them up to 38-39ish the next time out. Thanks

 

[blacksheep-1]

As I recall we run up to 5 degrees, this of course, is impossible for a street/track car, but that's what it took to use most of the tire in the corners. I don't know what the hot psi is for those tires but we ran on the edge with both the Contis and the Pirellis.
Try the Ford "blue" bar up front and use the smallest bar possible (or none) in the back. The sanctioning bodies make us run a rear bar because that's what the car came with, so we used a real tiny bar we called the "welding rod" in the back.Stock suspension points and kept the Panhard bar setup even though we tried several others, we always gravitated back to the PHB.

 

[cobrarob]

As I recall we run up to 5 degrees, this of course, is impossible for a street/track car, but that's what it took to use most of the tire in the corners. I don't know what the hot psi is for those tires but we ran on the edge with both the Contis and the Pirellis.
Try the Ford "blue" bar up front and use the smallest bar possible (or none) in the back. The sanctioning bodies make us run a rear bar because that's what the car came with, so we used a real tiny bar we called the "welding rod" in the back.Stock suspension points and kept the Panhard bar setup even though we tried several others, we always gravitated back to the PHB.

Woo 5 degrees!! While i just switched from that Ford bar to F/R Sam Strano bars at full soft,ill play a littl with those settings and see what i like.
Thanks again for your hepl, ill try those adjustments. Rob