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Discussion in 'Suspension and Chassis' started by cloud9, Apr 20, 2012.
Very Nice Gary! Yeah I cant wait to get mine out to see how she handles compared to stock.
Your car looks nice and flat! I am going out of my mind with excitement ! This friday can not get here fast enough!Watch out Chuck! Rides available!
I think you're going to like it. Less brake dive and body roll and the car feels more stable and settled at turn in.
Rick pm me your address .I will send your pads out monday!
I actually had an issue very similar to this in my 2006 with a TR6060. My car would not change gears unless stopped with the engine off and it in fact would creep like an automatic if you started it in 1st. At first I thought it was the slave, so I bought an new one. No difference. Then I thought my new clutch and pressure plate were defective. All was well with that. What it ended up being was a frozen pilot bearing. Now I installed everything myself so it could have been my fault during install, but it had been driving fine for over a month. I broke two pilot bearing pullers before having to cut the damn thing out of my flywheel. Replaced it and no problems since.
I went ahead and ordered a new set of Nitto 555RIIs in 305/35/18 and 285/35/18 for BIR in a couple weeks. I've been running the Conti takeoff slicks all year so far and I think they are slower than the Nittos (they are an endurance slick). I want to get a good baseline comparison of the suspension to see what if any difference it made in lap times. To do that I really need to run the same tires. Hopefully my theory that the slicks are a little slower is correct, but we'll find out soon.
Yea Boy ! (I need another set too, I'm trying to squeak out another two days at WG on my current ones. If not I'll have ot back off the the Prelli Corsa 'backup' tires. Ahhhhhh !! :'( )
Did you get your suspension parts installed? If so how about an update on your impressions of the changes.
Yes everything is done. It lowered like Ford said 1/2 in front 1" in back. I kept the stock shocks and struts. Kinda bouncy on settings 1 & 2 on the street but setting 3 is perfect like a stock ride. It corners great very little break dive. exiting corners is great as well. So far I love it. Its been raining like crazy here in Houston and hot as hell but I'll get on the track in September and let yall know. Oh and no more wheel hope at all.
Thanks for the update.
I ran the front on full firm and the rears at 2 on Friday and the car was on rails
Cool. I ran mine on 1 and 3 at Sonoma but will try 0 and 2 at Thunderhill my next time there since the track is really smooth.
I am confused by those settings. Isn't 5 the highest firm setting and 1 the softer street setting or am I misunderstanding something? Gary, are you 5 in front and the rears at 2?
I have the FRPP M-18000-C dampers, not the stock dampers. Full firm is screwing the damper all the way clockwise which essentially becomes zero. You can soften them by turning the screw counterclockwise up to six full revolutions.
That makes sense. Thanks for clarifying that for me!
Cloud9, have you compiled any data now from your stock suspension vs new setup running the Nitto's? Are you showing better times or is it just feeling better? Also, what have you decided on for sway bar settings to keep things neutral with the Nitto's?
I was running 1-2 seconds faster at MPH last weekend on the new suspension. The takeoff Conti slicks were 1-2 seconds faster than the Nittos as well.
Have you guys done any more testing on the m-18000-c dampers? What seems to be the best settings for them on the track? And what settings do you like to run on the street?
What is the reason you have them set softer in the rear?
On track 0 front 2 rear or 1 front 3 rear depending on smoothness of track. For street 2 front and 4 rear. Rear is softer due to running a staggered wheel/tire size front to back. You could run adjustable sway bars for a square setup and have front and rear dampers set the same.
Cloud9, I have noticed while autocrossing my Boss that max damping front and rear seems to be the way to go. It seems to make the car more stable in transient. Have you noticed that at all on the track or does the car settle into steady state enough on the track not to notice?
As far as the FR suspension cylinders: Can you comment on the differences you've noticed between that and the stock twin-tube Tokico? Do you think these are better than Koni's or Bilstein's offerings?
Thanks for any comments you have.