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Installed JHR clutch line and Boss Trans Scoop

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
Just got done installing the boss trans scoop and JHR clutch line. Havent drove it yet other than to move it back into the garage but the clutch feels so much smoother. I can now feel the point where the assist spring engages though. So that has to go. I have been having the problem of the clutch pedal sticking to the floor. It started this week. I hope this takes care of it. Next step is to swap the fluid with this fluid as recommended by AED
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tilton-Racing-TSR-1-brake-fluid-UNHEARD-PRICES-AND-CASE-LOTS-12-/271031696187?pt=Race_Car_Parts&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f1abf7b3b#ht_1282wt_1138

As for the install quick tip is pinch the line going from the reservoir to the master cylinder other wise you will end up with brake fluid everywhere. Dont ask how I know. lol

Also waiting for the car to cool down like overnight would be a good idea. My arms and hands are burned pretty well in some spots.
 
The line and assist spring removal make such a difference it will drive much better. I cant do the trans scoop we have some pretty large speed bumps here.
 
I installed the JHR clutch line and it didn't do anything for my shifting lock out at the track. It does feel a bit softer though.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
5 DOT 0 said:
I installed the JHR clutch line and it didn't do anything for my shifting lock out at the track. It does feel a bit softer though.
I'm not getting shifter lockout. it's the clutch won't disengage/engage properly. It's very very annoying.
 
5 DOT 0 said:
I installed the JHR clutch line and it didn't do anything for my shifting lock out at the track. It does feel a bit softer though.

Yeah it is not going to fix a clutch/trans problem but it does help with the fluid flow. Did you take out the assist spring? I think that if pushed hard enough the clutch cant handle the rpm over and over. The shift forks may be a weak point to. Too many people complaining of shift problems. Mine seem to have gone away after the mgw,clutch line + bleeding, and the removal of the assist spring. check out this sheet on the spring full details are to long to post. Yeah wonder how that spring could help ::)

Untitled.jpg
 
You can always put the spring back in. I will say though research it a bit chevy already tried this years back it failed.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
I am going to give it a test drive sometime today and see if I need to take that spring out. I think I will take it out either way.
 
do you have to drop the tranny out to get the line on? I am curious how hard it it to drop these transmissions. My clutch pedal stick to the floor some times.
 
bkaser90 said:
do you have to drop the tranny out to get the line on? I am curious how hard it it to drop these transmissions. My clutch pedal stick to the floor some times.

No the line is a simple push/pull fitting.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
jeepinocala said:
bkaser90 said:
do you have to drop the tranny out to get the line on? I am curious how hard it it to drop these transmissions. My clutch pedal stick to the floor some times.

No the line is a simple push/pull fitting.
I dont know about simple the fitting at the trans is a pretty tight area. employing a small child to get to it would be the best bet. getting the new line connected down there took 40 mins as I just couldnt get the grasp I needed on the line to push it back in. other than that it was really easy. be ready to pump the pedal about 200 times after you install it to bleed the line. I tried to use the vac pump and it didnt do anything still had to pump the pedal.
 
You are supposed to alternate vacuum and pumping, though with a completely dry system the vacuum would take days to fill it.


Rick what gear are you getting locked out of? I am able to avoid 3rd lockouts (they were pretty common when hot) now by applying slight right pressure instead of flat palming it straight like I do in other cars.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
5 DOT 0 said:
2-3 and 3-4. I'm sure I'd have it in 4-5 if I was shifting to 5th on a track. I suspect my next trip to TH I'll be using 5th. My MGW goes in Wed. I hope it helps but it's a bandaid at best. I'm pretty certain it's the clutch plate not fully releasing at high RPM's.
+1
 
I suspect the same thing, but bleeding (often) the clutch and a little right pressure has eliminated my 3rd lock outs. I rarely go into 4th in the mountains and never at high rpm so I don't get the 4th issue. I also have to hold left after entering the gate to 1st (instead of getting it in then pushing straight up) or I will occasionally get 1st lock outs or kick outs at the end of travel. I had one yesterday.

If you get 3rd lock outs, try turning your hand so the palm faces right instead of forward (or down depending how you do it) when shifting into third. It will naturally pull your arm a little right, and into the sweet spot. The MGW is probably different, but it works for me on the stock shifter. I started to suspect I was just doing it wrong but I borrowed several manual cars and had no issues with any of them (including my E30 with the shot tranny that I ragged on really hard) so I am pretty sure it is the tranny/shifter and not me.
 

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