Installing Camber Plates - What Else to Buy?

[F.D. Sako]

Bought a set of MM CC plates from a fellow member. I was wondering what else I should get, or replace, while at it?

So far I've bought smaller nuts for the shocks, to allow for maximum cc plate adjustment.
I was told the MM plates reuse the stock spring perches. I have around 28k miles on the car, should I purchase new perches as a preventative maintenance?
I remember reading that GT500 perches work as well, and they're considered to be a little more heavy duty... if so, which year GT500 perches should I get, and are they thicker than stock, causing the front end to rise?


Sorry for all the questions, just trying to order everything and have it delivered before the installation and alignment next weekend.
Thanks in advance! 8)

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Replacement spindle bolts and nuts (4 each) if you plan to completely unbolt the shock to install them (not sure how you can do it any other way).

These are "one time use"...I've used them twice before; anything more than that is a risk.

 

[VoodooBoss]

I think the GT500 perches are from the first generation S197 but that should be verified from other members.

@cloud9

 

[TMSBOSS]

I would inspect the current perches before spending money on new ones.

There is very little wear on the bearing plates within the perches.

If you want to max out potential camber, a set of adjustable lower bolts could go in at this time.

 

[F.D. Sako]

Just want to confirm, is it #2 from the figure above? Should I get the nuts (#3) as well?

As for the GT500 perches, I'll wait for confirmation!

I would inspect the current perches before spending money on new ones.

There is very little wear on the bearing plates within the perches.

If you want to max out potential camber, a set of adjustable lower bolts could go in at this time.

I think the plates will give enough negative camber for now. I'm not running r-comps, yet.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

You want both #2 and #3; two of each part, for both sides of the car. The bolts #2 are torque-to-yield, so they stretch, and the nuts #3 have a "flag" that will bend when it comes in contact with the strut.

It's about $40 worth of parts if you order from Tousley or Tasca but it's worth it for your safety. Not to mention that undertightened bolts in that location can lead to a cracked spindle (Ford switched to a fine thread bolt here and upped the torque spec in 2011 for this reason)

 

[Grant 302]

You want both #2 and #3; two of each part, for both sides of the car. The bolts #2 are torque-to-yield, so they stretch, and the nuts #3 have a "flag" that will bend when it comes in contact with the strut.

It's about $40 worth of parts if you order from Tousley or Tasca but it's worth it for your safety. Not to mention that undertightened bolts in that location can lead to a cracked spindle (Ford switched to a fine thread bolt here and upped the torque spec in 2011 for this reason)

Pretty sure that's not TTY. It only has a torque spec, and all TTY bolts have a torque procedure. It is one of the fasteners listed as 'do not reuse' by Ford, and I know that's caused a lot of confusion.

 

[steveespo]

The reason those bolts are one time use is that they have the "deformed nut" method of torque retention. The threads are slightly off at the end of the nut to prevent them from backing off. It's like a steel Nylock nut. I have reused them once with Loctite but Maximum Motorsports also sells them as a kit cheap so change them. As for the strut mount you have to make sure you have the smaller size bearing for the 2011-2014 GT/Boss struts. GT 500 struts use the 05-10 diameter strut shaft which is larger.
Steve

 

[Grant 302]

Thats it, Steve. Thanks. All the 'one time use' fasteners in the suspension are for the deformed thread and/or thread sealant. None of the suspension bolts are TTY.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Pretty sure that's not TTY. It only has a torque spec, and all TTY bolts have a torque procedure. It is one of the fasteners listed as 'do not reuse' by Ford, and I know that's caused a lot of confusion.

I'M CERTAINLY CONFUSED!!!

 

[F.D. Sako]

Glad I asked!!
Now to contact dealer to see if they have it in stock.

Steve, I couldn't find the kit on MM sites, when you get a chance could you provide the link?

 

[VoodooBoss]

As for the strut mount you have to make sure you have the smaller size bearing for the 2011-2014 GT/Boss struts. GT 500 struts use the 05-10 diameter strut shaft which is larger.
Steve

That's it. My Ford Racing 18000-C dampers are the older style and needed the GT500 style to fit properly. I used new MM camber plates with my new CorteX/JRi dampers made to fit the dampers.

 

[Grant 302]

FWIW, the newer MM plates are usable with either '05-10 (using the included spacers) or '11+ struts. My understanding is that either perch and bearing style will work with the CC plates.

So couldn't one use the MM plate+GT500 perch+bearing and '11+ struts?

 

[Cherno134]

I couldn't find the kit on MM sites, when you get a chance could you provide the link?

Maximum Motorsports part number MMF-3. You will need two kits, one for each strut. $22.79/kit

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/2005-14-C378.aspx

"These OEM Ford nuts and bolts attach the strut to the spindle on 2005+ Mustangs. Ford lists this hardware as one-time-use only. In 2009, Ford made a production line change to fine thread pitch hardware instead of the previously used coarse thread pitch. This change also accompanied a greater tightening torque, which improved the strut to spindle attachment.

This MM kit includes the latest generation design for less money than buying from the dealer.

Each kit contains 2 bolts and 2 nuts; enough to attach 1 strut to 1 spindle.

2 kits required per car."

 

[2012-Boss]

Sarkis,

You can get the strut / spindle bolts and nuts a couple of places. The part numbers are:

Bolt: W714652-S439
Nut: W714653-S900

You need two of each.

Here's a link to the diagram at Tasca:

http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2012/ford/mustang/boss-302-trim/5-0l-v8-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/struts-and-components-scat

The cost for everything you need is about $25 shipped vs double that from MM.

Are you doing the installation yourself? It is a two person job. You need someone to hold the strut in place while the other person installs the nuts on top of the strut tower. If you are, let me know. Maybe we can work out a weekend you come up to my house in DE and we do the install in my garage. It would only take a few hours.

 

[Cherno134]

The cost for everything you need is about $25 shipped vs double that from MM.

There is a reason why MM is ~double the cost. To do both front struts you need 4 bolts and 4 nuts (2 bolts and 2 nuts per strut).

 

[F.D. Sako]

Al, thanks for the link!

Steve, I've ordered the parts and they should be here sometime next week. Like Al mentioned, I believe you do need to order four of each to complete the front-end set. So, price would be somewhat comparable.

I was initially going to install the plates myself, but I wanted a shop to look over the car and perform a complete track inspection before I start this season. Since I'm going to be down in the Richmond area next weekend, I've scheduled an appointment with Don's Mustang Garage (from SCMC) to install the plates, do an alignment, and a track inspection while at it. But really appreciate your offer!

 

[Cherno134]

So far I've bought smaller nuts for the shocks, to allow for maximum cc plate adjustment.

Sometimes the maximum camber you can adjust is limited not by the nut on the strut but the diameter of the springs. I used the OEM nut and the Steeda Boss springs and could adjust the camber to -2.5 degrees on both wheels.

When I was installing coilovers recently I noticed the springs had been contacting the upper part of the strut tower at a lip with the tower wall and the tower cap. Evidently the spring contact did not occur on the street or if it did the contact was mild because I never heard any noise. Likewise I never noticed any contact noise while on track, but there are a lot of others noises that could mask any spring contact noises.




The Steeda Boss springs are close to the same diameter as the stock springs

 

[2012-Boss]

Yep, I totally screwed the math pooch.