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Intake Question this time!

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
4,688
3,437
Santiago, Chile
Mine made 447 rwh on the dyno a good day with stock heads, cams, exhaust manifolds and cats on 93 octane. I think you could get to 470 with headers, ported heads and cams.
Those are pretty stout numbers from a gen 1 or 2 with out even a LT header. Dynos are dynos after all. Which cams were those? Generally for track you dont want to give away too much bottom end.
 
441
387
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Those are pretty stout numbers from a gen 1 or 2 with out even a LT header. Dynos are dynos after all. Which cams were those? Generally for track you dont want to give away too much bottom end.
I was surprised with the dyno numbers as well, but it was near perfect conditions with cool temps and low humidity. The engine is stock except for the ported boss intake, ported throttle body, and Steeda cold air intake. It was tuned by a local shop. The baseline was around 410 hp with the stock intake and throttle body with the Steeda cold air intake and a steeda canned tune.
 
221
173
MD
Since I saw it mentioned here I figured it is appropriate to ask, but does setting a rev limit via tuning device make a difference in a manual car? I see some of you mentioned how your car is set to a limit but because you shift yourself, cant you still go over the limit if you wanted to? or does the computer in the car stop the engine from turning faster even if you mash the pedal?

When I installed the 18+ manifold on my 2017 a couple years ago, I read that my redline moved to 8k so thats what I set it to when I uploaded my AED tune using the SCT device. I find myself at almost 8k on track sometimes (investing in shift light this year) and not trying to do that this year. Rather save my engine than save a couple seconds off lap time. Seems like 7500 is a good place to set it to and shift at 7200 max. Thanks for any insight and hope it made sense
 
127
136
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Arizona
Since I saw it mentioned here I figured it is appropriate to ask, but does setting a rev limit via tuning device make a difference in a manual car? I see some of you mentioned how your car is set to a limit but because you shift yourself, cant you still go over the limit if you wanted to? or does the computer in the car stop the engine from turning faster even if you mash the pedal?

When I installed the 18+ manifold on my 2017 a couple years ago, I read that my redline moved to 8k so thats what I set it to when I uploaded my AED tune using the SCT device. I find myself at almost 8k on track sometimes (investing in shift light this year) and not trying to do that this year. Rather save my engine than save a couple seconds off lap time. Seems like 7500 is a good place to set it to and shift at 7200 max. Thanks for any insight and hope it made sense
If you set the rev limiter to 8000, the car will cut ignition at 8000 rpm and it will just bang against the limiter until you let out. It will not let RPM increase beyond that point. This is different than accidentally downshifting from 5th gear to 2nd and mechanically driving the engine faster than 8000 rpm which will end poorly and nothing in the programming will save you.

I have the rev limiter set to 7800 on my car, and I have my shift light set to 7400. There is no benefit to setting the actual rev limiter to your shift point, and there are a few downsides.
 
221
173
MD
If you set the rev limiter to 8000, the car will cut ignition at 8000 rpm and it will just bang against the limiter until you let out. It will not let RPM increase beyond that point. This is different than accidentally downshifting from 5th gear to 2nd and mechanically driving the engine faster than 8000 rpm which will end poorly and nothing in the programming will save you.

I have the rev limiter set to 7800 on my car, and I have my shift light set to 7400. There is no benefit to setting the actual rev limiter to your shift point, and there are a few downsides.
That’s makes sense. I have only a couple track days under my belt so I don’t think I’ve done that much to the engine but I know it only take one wrong move to go boom.
Thanks for the explanation. I’ll reprogram when I get home
 
194
312
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
I shipped mine out to AFS and Fedex literally dropped the ball and broke it.
Since they are out of production a new one usually has to be imported an runs for around $2000.

AFAIK I am not the first one with such a problem. Do you guys have any experience or tips on how to repair this?

Resized_20220211_095809.jpg
Resized_20220211_095804.jpeg
 
5,529
6,510
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
I shipped mine out to AFS and Fedex literally dropped the ball and broke it.
Since they are out of production a new one usually has to be imported an runs for around $2000.

AFAIK I am not the first one with such a problem. Do you guys have any experience or tips on how to repair this?

View attachment 72551
View attachment 72550
did they drop it before or after it was ported?
 
5,529
6,510
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Was dropped on the way to porting. So it has not been ported yet.
AFR should be able to repair that provided you have the broken pieces.
 
Firstly, make sure you report the damage to FedEx and get a refund ticket in. I've won battles with UPS for items that weren't even insured, you just have to be persistent.
For most of my plastic-to-plastic bonding work, I use SciGrip/IPS Weld-On products. They make a ton of different formulations for different applications. For my acrylic applications, it's a exothermic reaction when you mix the two components that actually solvent-bonds the materials together into one piece. A bond like that may be critical for a component that will see long-term vibrations.

Here is their bonding selection chart (what-to-what material with the suggested Weld-On product number in the cell): https://www.acplasticsinc.com/media/documents/Adhesive_IPS_Weldon_Selection_Guide.pdf
If you go this route, you'll want to make sure that the gasket channel is still clear. Most of the two-part formulations have a pretty high viscosity with little squeeze-out as long as you don't overload the joint.
It also depends if you were trying to get the porting job tier from AFS where he disassembles the Cobra Jet intake. I don't know when the best time would be to make the repair if it's coming apart anyways for the porting job. EDIT: Like Fabman said, since Bret does have a service where he cuts these apart for full port race clients, he is probably in a good position to make the repair as long as you communicate the need up front. I thought that perhaps this was on the return trip post-porting. He did some custom work for me and it was both readily accepted and fairly priced.
 
Last edited:
194
312
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
Firstly, make sure you report the damage to FedEx and get a refund ticket in. I've won battles with UPS for items that weren't even insured, you just have to be persistent.
For most of my plastic-to-plastic bonding work, I use SciGrip/IPS Weld-On products. They make a ton of different formulations for different applications. For my acrylic applications, it's a exothermic reaction when you mix the two components that actually solvent-bonds the materials together into one piece. A bond like that may be critical for a component that will see long-term vibrations.

Here is their bonding selection chart (what-to-what material with the suggested Weld-On product number in the cell): https://www.acplasticsinc.com/media/documents/Adhesive_IPS_Weldon_Selection_Guide.pdf
If you got this route, you'll want to make sure that the gasket channel is still clear. Most of the two-part formulations have a pretty high viscosity with little squeeze-out as long as you don't overload the joint.
It also depends if you were trying to get the porting job tier from AFS where he disassembles the Cobra Jet intake. I don't know when the best time would be to make the repair if it's coming apart anyways for the porting job. EDIT: Like Fabman said, since Bret does have a service where he cuts these apart for full port race clients, he is probably in a good position to make the repair as long as you communicate the need up front. I thought that perhaps this was on the return trip post-porting. He did some custom work for me and it was both readily accepted and fairly priced.
Awesome. Thx for all the info!

I asked AFR about repairs but it is too much of a hassle and a risk for them, which I find quite understandable. This is mostly related to the damaged gasket groove and the connected complications. They are also only doing the basic porting job which does not require the intake to be taken apart.
FEDEX claim has already been submitted. I never had any success with UPS though. Crossing my fingers.
 
5,529
6,510
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Awesome. Thx for all the info!

I asked AFR about repairs but it is too much of a hassle and a risk for them, which I find quite understandable. This is mostly related to the damaged gasket groove and the connected complications. They are also only doing the basic porting job which does not require the intake to be taken apart.
FEDEX claim has already been submitted. I never had any success with UPS though. Crossing my fingers.
Fortunately mwjscn sounds like an expert on the subject so once again TMO members ROCK!
 
445
467
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Snowy North
How about maching from aluminum a slip cover flange to replace the broken corner and ensure oem clamping load distribution?

Simplistically...a big, oval 1/8" thick 6061 "washer" with holes in three corners, a holed tang to replace the broken corner...and a hinge/clamp across an axis so it can pivot open and slip over the backside of the oem plastic flange?

Lots of clever FAB-ricators out there who could prolly do a little job like that :cool:.....hmmm?
 
5,529
6,510
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
How about maching from aluminum a slip cover flange to replace the broken corner and ensure oem clamping load distribution?

Simplistically...a big, oval 1/8" thick 6061 "washer" with holes in three corners, a holed tang to replace the broken corner...and a hinge/clamp across an axis so it can pivot open and slip over the backside of the oem plastic flange?

Lots of clever FAB-ricators out there who could prolly do a little job like that :cool:.....hmmm?
No, you're not baiting me into this....;)
 
5,529
6,510
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
C'mon Sal....you've got one to use as a template...think of it as a new business opportunity!
I'm busier than a one armed paper hanger around here....60 hours/6 days a week.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Do you guys have any experience or tips on how to repair this?
That would be an easy repair. But I think FedEx owes you a replacement first.
Pretty lucky about where the break is, IMO. An adhesive fix should be enough, but I’d also use a pin or two if it were mine.
The nice thing about composite/engineered plastics is that they don’t deform much if at all when they break.
 

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