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S197 JDMac's Autocross GT Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

2011 Mustang GT

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This was my first Solo National Tour. I am fortunate and have many experienced and helpful people in my local region, and they gave me a lot of good pointers before and during the event. The main things that they emphasized was to prioritize the course walks and go into your runs with a plan. With only 3 runs per course, there wasn't much room for error.

Saturday was HOT! We were dealing with 90°F temps with +60% humidity. I had walked the course 3 times the night before and 2 times that morning. It was the most serious that I've taken course walks, but I had a detailed plan in my head that I was confident in. My very first run was okay. There were a few spots where the line that I wanted to take wasn't what others were taking. I entered into one turn and about ate it because of all the gravel being pushed onto my line. Luckily I was able to stop for a downed cone and got a rerun. On my next run I took what I thought would be the more common driving line and there was significantly less gravel and it worked. Once I had the line figured out I increased my aggression and got a good time on my last run. I really liked this course once I figured it out. CAM-C class was extremely close all day. There was less than a half second split between 1st and 5th place. I ended up finishing the day with a 0.064 second lead. It was anybody's game.

Sunday was wet! The rain started as we were driving to grid and the workers were making their way out on course. From grid, it looked like there was standing water on the course and that it would be pretty slick. I was too cautious on my first run and lost the lead by a lot. Everybody came back grid and had the same feeling that there was way more grip than expected. My second run I drove with much more aggression. The front of the car was doing okay but I was fighting the rear in the turns. I noticed that the course seemed dry(ish) in spots where we were accelerating or decelerating, but that the turns were still slick. I softened the rear shocks a few clicks and wanted to focus on taking a good line on my last run. I feel like I executed that plan pretty well except for the end of the slalom. I carried more speed through the first and middle part of the slalom than I did before and the car got upset when I had to scrub speed at the end. I was able to catch it without losing much time and was able to put down a decent time.

Like I said earlier, CAM-C was a very close class all weekend, but I pulled off the victory by 0.053 seconds! I have raced with most of the people in my class before and they whooped me. I feel like my driving has improved a lot, and I'm extremely happy about this victory! Time to see if Hawk will actually pay for their contingency.
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I love TireRack but I personally do not recommend heat cycling 200 TWR tires because in most cases the cars are driven on the street some as well as to the track. Getting that initial molding release gunk off is great , but the extra bucks can be saved with many folks. If going directly to the autocross course it might be helpful , but this is one item I have not found very beneficial with street tires over the years, imho.
This was the first set that I opted for heat cycling. I would agree with you that it can be done by driving, but I liked the idea of it being a calculated heat cycle with a proper cool-down time. It worked out well for me because I waited longer to get these tires than expected. I didn't get a good chance to drive the car much before the first time that it saw "racing" conditions. The first time that these saw significant temperatures was the Friday at 2pm when I had to run the next morning at 8am. I believe that they call for 24 hours of cool-down after the first heat cycle, so that wouldn't have worked out. I had instant grip and they felt the same during the Test and Tune as they did during the first competition runs.

Will I do it again? I'm not sure, but it worked well this time.
 
I just finished a time trial where I saw a lot of improvement in lap times, but more on that later.

At the end of the last session, I parked my car and let it idle to cool down and that's when I noticed a tapping noise coming from the engine at idle. It sounded like it stayed the same volume but increased in frequency with engine speed. It has great oil pressure, great power, and no weird vibrations or misfires. Here is the video that I took right as I noticed it.

The general consensus from everybody at the track is that it's not bottom-end noises and likely something with the valvetrain. I didn't trailer the car to the track and decided to drive it home. Nothing notable happened on the drive home. I was easy on it, but everything felt perfectly normal.

After I pulled into my garage I noticed that the tapping was now more noticeable on engine decel. Again, I'm seeing the same symptoms but the noise is more noticeable; however, that might be because I'm in a garage for this second video.

After doing some digging through this forum I found another thread with a similar situation and the same sound. He ended up replacing his timing set to solve the problem. I'm going to dig into mine tonight and pray that I find something simple. If not, any tips or recommendations would be much appreciated.

The other thread: https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/not-the-usual-ticking-coyote-thread.19698/
 
I pulled the valve covers last night to see if anything was obvious. All of the cams felt fine and follower arms and valve springs looked good to my inexperienced eyes.
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The passenger side timing chain was very tight but the driver side had a little bit of play in it. I was able to lift a link up about 1/16" with my hand and rock it side to side which made a familiar noise. Here is the not-so-great video:

I thought that might have been the culprit until I spun the engine over with a ratchet a few times until I heard oil coming out of the tensioners. I rechecked the chains and they all felt like the driver side, so that might not be the problem. Damn.
 
Bad piston! The #8 ringland had a few cracks, and the piston skirt rattled inside the cylinder causing the knock and some slight cylinder wall damage. The rod bearings all look great.
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Unfortunately, the metal shavings somehow made it through the oil filter and into the cam caps. The heads look fine, cam journals should polish out, but the caps are toast.
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I was hoping to reuse my Gen1 heads, but replacing the caps doesn't sound like a great idea since they will require line-boring to match the existing bores in the head casting. Most shops by me don't have experience with Coyote heads, and the one who does said that it didn't work and that they swore never to try line-boring cam caps again. I was able to find a good deal on a set of GT350 heads.
  • Gen3 short block
  • GT350 heads w/ MMR modified rockers
  • Gen1 cams
  • GT500 oil pan and pump
  • GT500 valve covers
  • Gen1 timing set
I was considering getting the L&M Intake Only cams, but the price to HP increase didn't seem like it was worth it to me. All dyno charts that I've seen seem to have the same HP and TQ and the L&M cams only see improvement above 6,500 RPM. I felt like the money would be better spent on cooling (bigger radiator and high-flow water pump). I emailed Shawn from AED when I was looking into re-tuning and he mentioned that he doesn't like 93-octane fuel with cylinder head temps over 230°F, so cooling will be a higher priority to me.
 
Bad piston! The #8 ringland had a few cracks, and the piston skirt rattled inside the cylinder causing the knock and some slight cylinder wall damage. The rod bearings all look great.
View attachment 97259

Unfortunately, the metal shavings somehow made it through the oil filter and into the cam caps. The heads look fine, cam journals should polish out, but the caps are toast.
View attachment 97260

I was hoping to reuse my Gen1 heads, but replacing the caps doesn't sound like a great idea since they will require line-boring to match the existing bores in the head casting. Most shops by me don't have experience with Coyote heads, and the one who does said that it didn't work and that they swore never to try line-boring cam caps again. I was able to find a good deal on a set of GT350 heads.
  • Gen3 short block
  • GT350 heads w/ MMR modified rockers
  • Gen1 cams
  • GT500 oil pan and pump
  • GT500 valve covers
  • Gen1 timing set
I was considering getting the L&M Intake Only cams, but the price to HP increase didn't seem like it was worth it to me. All dyno charts that I've seen seem to have the same HP and TQ and the L&M cams only see improvement above 6,500 RPM. I felt like the money would be better spent on cooling (bigger radiator and high-flow water pump). I emailed Shawn from AED when I was looking into re-tuning and he mentioned that he doesn't like 93-octane fuel with cylinder head temps over 230°F, so cooling will be a higher priority to me.
Many of us here at TMO and beyond run the L&M Cams and have had very good luck with them. Nice broad powerband.
Airflow Solutions in AZ will fix those heads, they just did a set for me.
 
The new engine is in and running, but I'm running into some issues with tuning.

Shaun from AED noticed some knock on the hit and thinks that it's false knock. I don't see anything obvious right now, so I'll have to keep digging. My number 1 culprit right now is the steering shaft tapping a header tube, but don't see any marks on either.

The second issue is that each bank of cylinders are not correcting evenly. His guess was exhaust leak, fouled O2s, and/or a vacuum leak somewhere. I'm 99% sure that there aren't any exhaust leaks, pretty sure there aren't any vacuum leaks, but I know that filling up my catch cans and sloshing oil into the intake tube causing a bunch of oil to burn in right before it blew up could have fouled the O2s. New O2s in - we'll see what happens.
 
The new engine is in and running, but I'm running into some issues with tuning.

Shaun from AED noticed some knock on the hit and thinks that it's false knock. I don't see anything obvious right now, so I'll have to keep digging. My number 1 culprit right now is the steering shaft tapping a header tube, but don't see any marks on either.

The second issue is that each bank of cylinders are not correcting evenly. His guess was exhaust leak, fouled O2s, and/or a vacuum leak somewhere. I'm 99% sure that there aren't any exhaust leaks, pretty sure there aren't any vacuum leaks, but I know that filling up my catch cans and sloshing oil into the intake tube causing a bunch of oil to burn in right before it blew up could have fouled the O2s. New O2s in - we'll see what happens.
Always clean out the intake after a major engine explosion.
I can't tell you how many new engines failed because a little piece of shrapnel was hiding in the intake and later dislodged just to destroy a brand new engine.
I saw one guy destroy 3 in a row before he realized some sharp pieces were imbedded deep in the plastic manifold and were coming loose one by one.
Its a damn tough lesson.
 
Always clean out the intake after a major engine explosion.
I can't tell you how many new engines failed because a little piece of shrapnel was hiding in the intake and later dislodged just to destroy a brand new engine.
I saw one guy destroy 3 in a row before he realized some sharp pieces were imbedded deep in the plastic manifold and were coming loose one by one.
Its a damn tough lesson.
Good tip. I was surprised how much oil was still in my intake. It took longer than expected to clean out
 
The latest update is that the engine is back out. The used voodoo heads that I installed had a few leaky intake valves. I have them back from the machine shop and they are good to go now; valve seats recut and stem heigh back to spec. I did another leak-down test after they were bolted to the block and each cylinder performed great. When I bolted a camshaft back in, that bank failed. I watched the rocker as I loosened and tightened the cam and could see the [drained] lash adjuster bottoming out then push the valve down a little bit. I'm done with the MMR modified rockers.

I bit the bullet and ordered a set of cams from L&M with the idea that I could run the 5.2 followers and have proper geometry. Another benefit is that I'll have a little more power! The problem is that I ordered the cams a little over a month ago. I called L&M before I placed the order and he notified me that there had been problems with the latest batch of camshaft blanks and it might take a while. Fast forward to now, and I'm tired of waiting. I'm debating on looking for a set of Gen2 heads so that I can reuse my Gen1 cams and put the engine back together soon.
 
The latest update is that the engine is back out. The used voodoo heads that I installed had a few leaky intake valves. I have them back from the machine shop and they are good to go now; valve seats recut and stem heigh back to spec. I did another leak-down test after they were bolted to the block and each cylinder performed great. When I bolted a camshaft back in, that bank failed. I watched the rocker as I loosened and tightened the cam and could see the [drained] lash adjuster bottoming out then push the valve down a little bit. I'm done with the MMR modified rockers.

I bit the bullet and ordered a set of cams from L&M with the idea that I could run the 5.2 followers and have proper geometry. Another benefit is that I'll have a little more power! The problem is that I ordered the cams a little over a month ago. I called L&M before I placed the order and he notified me that there had been problems with the latest batch of camshaft blanks and it might take a while. Fast forward to now, and I'm tired of waiting. I'm debating on looking for a set of Gen2 heads so that I can reuse my Gen1 cams and put the engine back together soon.
Hey JDMac34. I was going to go the gen 3 block route with voodoo heads. But now I'm second guessing. I already have my gen 2 torn down and awaiting my TSP sleeved gen 3 to arrive. I wonder if the Ford performance camshafts item# M-6550-M52 with modified rockers would have worked. According to MMR article write on https://www.svtperformance.com/thre...ll-gt350-heads-on-a-11-16-5-0-coyote.1104771/ everything with your setup should have worked without clearance issues.
 
Hey JDMac34. I was going to go the gen 3 block route with voodoo heads. But now I'm second guessing. I already have my gen 2 torn down and awaiting my TSP sleeved gen 3 to arrive. I wonder if the Ford performance camshafts item# M-6550-M52 with modified rockers would have worked. According to MMR article write on https://www.svtperformance.com/thre...ll-gt350-heads-on-a-11-16-5-0-coyote.1104771/ everything with your setup should have worked without clearance issues.
Sorry, I just now saw this. Those cams would work with the Voodoo followers/rockers if you have a Gen2 control system. I tried the MMR modified rockers with Gen1 Coyote cams and Voodoo heads, and they held valves open. I had my heads checked at a machine shop and everything was within spec. I just can't recommend using the MMR rockers.
 
After a looooong wait, my camshafts are finally here! I'm now going through my garage and making sure that I have new single-use fasteners ready and tying up any loose ends before I start.

Alternator
When disassembling my engine the last time I broke the connector off the back of the alternator. It sounds like the BOSS kit is still the best option, but not much more reliable than the regular GT. Is that true? I might as well get new belts while it's out, and I like how the BOSS kit comes with a new belt, tensioner, and pully.

Damper
I was planning on reusing my Gen1 damper, but want to make sure that I'm not risking anything. Should I get a Gen3 balancer to match my Gen3 rotating assembly, or is reusing my Gen1 fine? In case it matters, I'm using the Exedy lightweight flywheel. I've seen too many mixed reviews on aftermarket dampers like the ATI and would prefer to avoid those.
 
After a looooong wait, my camshafts are finally here! I'm now going through my garage and making sure that I have new single-use fasteners ready and tying up any loose ends before I start.

Alternator
When disassembling my engine the last time I broke the connector off the back of the alternator. It sounds like the BOSS kit is still the best option, but not much more reliable than the regular GT. Is that true? I might as well get new belts while it's out, and I like how the BOSS kit comes with a new belt, tensioner, and pully.

Damper
I was planning on reusing my Gen1 damper, but want to make sure that I'm not risking anything. Should I get a Gen3 balancer to match my Gen3 rotating assembly, or is reusing my Gen1 fine? In case it matters, I'm using the Exedy lightweight flywheel. I've seen too many mixed reviews on aftermarket dampers like the ATI and would prefer to avoid those.
Yeah I ended up purchasing a gen 3 TSP sleeved block. And I purchased a set of custom voodoo cams from L&M. The voodoo heads I purchased from Cjpony is currently at the machine shop getting port work and valve job done. I made a mistake and purchased the voodoo heads that still needed machine work to be complete.
 
Yeah I ended up purchasing a gen 3 TSP sleeved block. And I purchased a set of custom voodoo cams from L&M. The voodoo heads I purchased from Cjpony is currently at the machine shop getting port work and valve job done. I made a mistake and purchased the voodoo heads that still needed machine work to be complete.
Same here. One of mine was good to go, but the other had to get the intake valves redone. Fun stuff! :mad:
 

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