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In the V6L
It's the little stuff that makes you go crazy..I was able to remove the fuel injection throttle linkage, pull the cable out, shorten the cable shield, then drill out the cable stay, solder it back to the cable shield, and then run the cable back through it..about 3 hours work.
THEN..came building the throttle bracket

This was the second attempt..

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Installed showing the cable stay

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All together

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Drive-by-wire has evolved from this, let's just say. If you wanted the real retro experience, you could have put in a rods and ball-joints setup.
 
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Drive-by-wire has evolved from this, let's just say. If you wanted the real retro experience, you could have put in a rods and ball-joints setup.

I know, a buddy of mine in high school had a tri power GTO and I had 2 4bbl Carters on my 56 Chevy
 
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That's got me curious...

coming from the corner of the pan, between the pan and the gasket, not above the gasket (between block and gasket) but under it, the area of the block/timing cover/pan where most leaks happen is bone dry.
almost seems like it's coming from around a pan bolt head...weird.
 
Looking good. How's your back doing?
 
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Wired the dash for installation, also the very important "for the one I always forget circuit"
The fuse panel is plastic and secured to the back of the dash with 3M structural adhesive to simplify things.
all the connections are soldered because I hate crimps
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so, ultimately, this is the arrangement of circuits in the electrical panel.
The top 3 being the most important, the ignition, fuel pump and fans, so that they can be switched off by one hand swipe if something like a crash or throttle stick should occur.
Tail lights, wipers and alternator are the next 3, there is no current plans for headlights, the brake lights are on a second circuit. The alternator can be switched on or off to idle around the pits or turned off for a run.

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Does SCCA require working lights, headlights for Autocross?

I don't know, I never run SCCA, those guys are way too picky for me. I just like to go out and have fun and piss off the foreign car drivers.
I have a set of running lights on the shelf that go in the lower grill if needed, but I don't intend to use them.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
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Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
What I did not like about their rules was this. Drive in one group and then pickup cones for another.
Putting untrained people on the course to do anything is a bad idea. Charge an extra $5 an event and pay a crew who can be trained to reset cones safely and actually send up the correct cone counts.
 
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What I did not like about their rules was this. Drive in one group and then pickup cones for another.
Putting untrained people on the course to do anything is a bad idea. Charge an extra $5 an event and pay a crew who can be trained to reset cones safely and actually send up the correct cone counts.

I think it's that way everywhere, the guys at FAST are pretty organized and are the same guys all the time, they also have a corner supervisor with radios, they use a lot of airports with long runs.
 
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Welded up some seat brackets for the aluminum seat. I'm using tek screws to hold it all together until it's fitted then better arrangements will be made.

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the Steeda subframe connectors are also in at this time. which attach to the lower seat brackets
 
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built the filler panel for the front splitter

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used foam with an adhesive back between the nose and the filler panel..

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after talking with several people decided that the fastest, simplest and most effective way to get downforce at the lowest speed was probably a Kamm style rear spoiler...so at least for now, this will be it, although it is also tek screwed into position for now, that will change

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Miraculously, the hood fits without modification..

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