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Just broke my bleeder screw :-[ Any tips on extracting?

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Will be extracting this weekend, on the bright side the bleeder is in the locked position, therefore no leakage of fluid, for now. ;D
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
VoodooBOSS said:
One word: torquewrench

not "torquewrench"? ::) :p ;D

I'm thinking my initial reaction to replace the whole caliper might have been too conservative. I'm already replacing mine this spring on the FakeR because they'll be 6.5 years old and seen enough temp cycling to turn the calipers light gray and the brembo logo nearly white and start peeling the powder coat in the areas surrounding the pads. Ain't broke, but definitely see them as a maintenance item with relatively hard use. OP's calipers still look newish.

Plug the hole before you start the extraction and nothing should come out of it. Clean around the screw before you take it out.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
VoodooBOSS said:
One word: torquewrench
The racers rule of thumb for proper torque is "tighten it until it breaks then back it off half a turn."


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Grant 302 said:
not "torquewrench"? ::) :p ;D

I'm thinking my initial reaction to replace the whole caliper might have been too conservative. I'm already replacing mine this spring on the FakeR because they'll be 6.5 years old and seen enough temp cycling to turn the calipers light gray and the brembo logo nearly white and start peeling the powder coat in the areas surrounding the pads. Ain't broke, but definitely see them as a maintenance item with relatively hard use. OP's calipers still look newish.

Plug the hole before you start the extraction and nothing should come out of it. Clean around the screw before you take it out.
I might add that you shouldn't drill it all the way through, that will damage the seat. Hopefully your kit will have the proper size spline where you don't have to drill it at all and hopefully the spline set has been properly heat treated. The splines need to remain sharp to work. Before spline drives were available I had used regular ez outs with good success. I once managed a chain of brake shops and ran back and forth resolving problems. This one was pretty common. Remember, it's all in the execution. If the hole is crooked or sloppy or drilled wobbly it won't work. You should have to drive the spline in with a hammer to get a good bite.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Fabman said:
I might add that you shouldn't drill it all the way through, that will damage the seat. Hopefully your kit will have the proper size spline where you don't have to drill it at all and hopefully the spline set has been properly heat treated. The splines need to remain sharp to work. Before spline drives were available I had used regular ez outs with good success. I once managed a chain of brake shops and ran back and forth resolving problems. This one was pretty common. Remember, it's all in the execution. If the hole is crooked or sloppy or drilled wobbly it won't work. You should have to drive the spline in with a hammer to get a good bite.

Yeah, definitely *don't* drill through it! That would mean caliper replacement...
 

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