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Eric said:Jimmy,
Verified the current LCA orientation is correct.
r/
Eric
KBBoss302 said:Jimmy - you should consider these Steeda billet LCAs. They make them in a variety of configurations, including ones with spherical bushings on the axle end like I have (3rd one down on the list). I had them on my '12 for about 5k miles and then yanked them off and installed them on my '13 LS when I switched cars. About 7k miles total with nary a clunk or squeak. Plus, they are light and beautiful!
http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-mustang-billet-lower-control-arms.html
Dig-It said:I ran the KB RCRK at VIR this last weekend - with no rear sway bar, Steeda Boss springs, stock struts and shocks. I was able to get a full course lap time of 2:20 on the stock Pirelli Corsas and 2:17 on Hoosier slicks. I'm sold on the KB parts.
What were your times the last time you ran there?Dig-It said:I ran the KB RCRK at VIR this last weekend - with no rear sway bar, Steeda Boss springs, stock struts and shocks. I was able to get a full course lap time of 2:20 on the stock Pirelli Corsas and 2:17 on Hoosier slicks. I'm sold on the KB parts.
Eric said:Quick update on the AGS-4 suspension after 3000 miles...
Performance. Much more balanced than stock. Turn in, brake dive, cornering, neutral roll...all much better. Very satisfied with the KB spec Eibach coil overs...not jaring or hash riding.
Maintenance.
- Check torque. Went through the entire car and retorqed anything that had been replaced (struts, k-member, rear suspension). Noted some of the k-member fasteners had loosened up. All torqued to spec now; will re-check again.
- Rod Ends. After 3000 miles and the ever present "clunk/clunk" noise over expansion joints and other road irregularities, I took the back end apart to see what the problem was. Ended up replacing all of the rod-ends as they were sloppy. Figured they would last longer than that, but Pegasus Racing sells a very high quality 3/4 x 3/4 Aroura rod end for $75.00 ea.
- Hardware. Also noted during the tear down/build up that the OEM hardware is slightly smaller in diameter than the inside diameter of the aluminum inserts that are used in the rod ends. This was also true for the bushing/steel insert on the axle side of the UCA. Replaced all the hardware with 9/16 (course pitch) Grade 8 bolts and nuts. Had to bore out some (not all) of the aluminum inserts to accept a 9/16 bolt. The UCA bushing/steel insert is already 9/16". Now there is no slop between the rod end and attaching hardware.
End result...no more clunk/clunk. Even more impressed with the performance level and ride quaity now.
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isrboss said:I understand your point, and without a doubt, I know the KB/Eibach coilovers are better. I just don't understand what the secret is with the Eibach pro street s from KB's direction. It's not a damper or spring that KB would be competing with or their customers ( makes it seem like hype ). It's just weird and would make it difficult for me to do business with KB. I want to know everything about a product prior to buying it. I feel releasing spring rates on a daily driver coilover setup to be pretty standard.