The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Kenny Brown brake duct bracket

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

http://store.kennybrown.com/product/brake-cooling/front-brake-ducts-2005-2014-mustang-boss-302-and-shelby-gt500

Forgive me if this has been covered, I did a search first. I think has the potential to work better than the standard kit since it is cooling more than one side of the rotor (I know the vanes will conduct head to the cool side, but it is still going to be uneven since they are not a perfect conductor). The KB design pushes air into the rotors center, which I would think is helped by the spinning rotor acting like a squirrel cage blower as it spins. I suspect the KB design would work great for straight vane rotors, but some curved designs look like they would push air out the center and fight the KB design (on one side of the car, anyways). Or do they all pull from the center because of the Bernoulli and centrifugal effects? I was hoping one or more of you might be an ME with some practical fluid dynamics background and can shed some light on this. I am guessing the air forced into the bracket would overcome any rotor-induced airflow, but I am not sure.
 

Senderofan

Having more fun than should be allowed..in my Boss
I'm not sure the KB kit is much different than others being offered. Here's a link to one of our vendors here...he is also a member and engineer...perhaps he can shed more light:

http://stores.blowfishracing.com/-strse-8/Brembo-Brake-Cooling-DIY/Detail.bok

Wayne
 
Looking at the install pics closer, yea, the KB bracket is not unique. I had read a piece on them in an online mag that claimed they were, and I was under the impression that the Ford Racing units were larger than they are... My bad.

But the question still stands about the vanes I guess. Can certain vane designs work against the cooling duct?
 
Both the FRPP and KB ducts kits use 3" ID hose, and both direct air flow from the front facia to the center of the rotor. So, no real functional difference between the two kits from what I can see.

Between the two, I'd go with the FRPP kit, even though it's more expensive, because it's a Ford Racing-engineered kit and ease of installation...the inlet bezels (basically stock GT fog light bezels w/ a metal duct riveted to the back side) just snap right on the back of the facia. With the KB kit looks like you'd have to screw or rivet the inlet ducts to the back of the facia.

Anyway, Autonation (formerly Tousley), Levittown and Tasca Ford all sell the FRPP kit at a good discount from MSRP, so you'll spend around $50-60 more for it than for the KB kit...purchase mine from Tousley in 2012 for $357. Or, piece together a DIY kit for considerably less $$ from different vendors...buy the hose, backing plates and assorted bits from BMO sponsor Blowfish Racing for $169.00, and the inlet bezels from Ford for ~$35 ea.
 
I'd piece it together, I have the Kenny plates but the Blowfish ones I believe are cheaper and have the same idea. Also with a '12 you don't need the inlet pieces, just cut the faux fogs out and you can clamp the hose onto the back.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
If I were getting a set of duct plates now...this is what I'd go with from Vorshlag:
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_280&products_id=634

Duct routing to the center and thermal protection for the steering rod end. Starting with an OEM dust shield also gets you a stamped offset that will get the plate closer to the rotor than any other flat plate design.
 

Senderofan

Having more fun than should be allowed..in my Boss
Grant 302 said:
If I were getting a set of duct plates now...this is what I'd go with from Vorshlag:
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_280&products_id=634

Duct routing to the center and thermal protection for the steering rod end. Starting with an OEM dust shield also gets you a stamped offset that will get the plate closer to the rotor than any other flat plate design.

Those are really, really nice. Thanks for sharing that with us. That's the final piece to my DIY kit....so that is very helpful.
 
Grant 302 said:
If I were getting a set of duct plates now...this is what I'd go with from Vorshlag:
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_280&products_id=634

Duct routing to the center and thermal protection for the steering rod end. Starting with an OEM dust shield also gets you a stamped offset that will get the plate closer to the rotor than any other flat plate design.

Yea I was going to post about those today too :) I was kinda hoping this thread would die, since I started it due to a poorly researched article that I believed... Anyways I did read up on the Vorshlag site that they started with the stock heat shields and simply cut a hole and welded the duct attachment. Seems like a lot to charge for a modified stock part that is already on the car. I am tempted to pull mine off on a "warm" day and make it a winter project. The thing I am tempted to buy from them is the SS brake line set, and replace the Clutch line at the same time since guys are reporting it fixes high rpm clutch sticking. Plus the stock one is plastic...next to the headers...
 
WinterSucks said:
...and replace the Clutch line at the same time since guys are reporting it fixes high rpm clutch sticking. Plus the stock one is plastic...next to the headers...
Replacing the plastic clutch line with a SS line will not fix this problem. The only know fix is to remove the helper spring. The main reason why Ford Racing sells a SS clutch line is for use with headers. So if you have headers go for it but don't buy it thinking it will fix your clutch problems because it won't.
 
Thanks, good to know! I did remove the helper spring, and it definitely helped get the linear feel back. One bit of info I cannot seem to find, though, is how much duct to buy. Judging by the pictures, I need 6ft total to have a little extra? If that is the case I might buy 12ft of Mishimoto duct so I can split it with another local Boss owner.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top