Koni Sport Yellows - Best Settings Street / Comp?

[302 Hi Pro]

Hi Everyone:

Last month I installed Koni Yellows and I have wondered "What are the Best Setting for Street use, and then for the Track?"

I would imagine the actuall fine tuning of the front and rear settings will vary with different suspension set-ups and different springs. But I would also imagine that others who install the Yellows might wonder, "Where should I Start?"

Please let us know what suspension setup you're running and what settings have you found that works well for you. (Number of turns from Soft = 0, to Stiff = 2.0 / 2.5).

I run FRPP Boss T springs with Koni Yellows and I started at 1-1/4 Front and 1.0 Rear. Not sure about the Track setting, maybe front 2.0 and rear 1-1/2 turns?

Don't know,but is it best to run Yellows with a stiffer front setting? By sharing your set up, e.g. Springs and Koni settings, others running the same can benefit from your experience.

Thank you,
Hi Pro

 

[further]

You need to check out this video. Don't turn them to full, ever, they will lock out.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bZfDDzW9UXI

I've got your setup, for one more track weekend at least, then changing springs.

On the street, you can turn them on full soft, for a nice ride. On the track, somewhere in the middle to near stiff is fine. For a square setup, run the front half a turn stiffer than the rears.

 

[steveespo]

That is a little misleading as there is not a 230-800 lb/spring trying to extend that shock. With the higher spring rates you need very stiff rebound damping to control oscillation and keep the tire in contact with the road. Wheel hop on braking and acceleration is caused by uncontrolled oscillations induced by a bump that the shock(s) can't control, spring goes back and forth until the energy input is dissipated by the shock. Doesn't mean that this is totally wrong just that the test method is not accounting for all possible variables.
Steve

 

[moto]

I have the Steeda Boss specific springs and the fays watts link set at one hole below center. I run full soft on street for my occasional street use. On track I run 1-1/2 turn firm on front and rear 1 to 1-1/2 depending on track, with my 285F/305R conti slicks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[boss man]

That is a little misleading as there is not a 230-800 lb/spring trying to extend that shock. With the higher spring rates you need very stiff rebound damping to control oscillation and keep the tire in contact with the road. Wheel hop on braking and acceleration is caused by uncontrolled oscillations induced by a bump that the shock(s) can't control, spring goes back and forth until the energy input is dissipated by the shock. Doesn't mean that this is totally wrong just that the test method is not accounting for all possible variables.
Steve

I do believe the OP was just bringing it to peoples attention and not stateing any accounting for all possible variables.

Not everyone on this site understands the high tech wording. BMO is a site for all to learn form. What I got out of further post is that...if you set your Koni shock on full, the rebound is very stiff and you may want to use caution in doing so.
Sorry if I sounded strong and dont want to upset anyone, but it just seemed like the post was read into to deep. OP was only passing along info. that he noticed while installing the Koni Yellows.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Very interesting,video on the Koni rebound rate at full stiff then movement at just a 1/4 turn back. I will be very careful when setting my Koni's for track day service to avoid this condition.

As I stated I have the T springs and I started off with full soft in the rear and just a 1/3 turn up front. I read the Boss 302 supplement and it always recommended having a softer setting in rear for the OEM adjustable dampeners. I kept this in mind when trying different settings with the new Koni's.

But I found the rear end was all over the place at full soft. In fact, my front setting was determined only after I came across the rear setting that controlled the rear spring, my rear T's are very stiff. Not sure why.

Can I run the Koni's at the same settings? 1-1/2 front and rear? I'm actually thinking about changing out my springs and going with Boss Steeda springs as I want to keep the OEM front end geometry and don't want to drop the front end any lower than 1/2".

Just nice to know what setting others run and with what springs.

steveespo: totally agree the shocks have to control the spring oscillations and movement, that's why I went with the yellows. Honestly, I'm beginning to think the T springs are not the best track / performance spring. What settings do you like and what springs are you running?

Thanks
Hi Pro

 

[further]

That is a little misleading as there is not a 230-800 lb/spring trying to extend that shock. With the higher spring rates you need very stiff rebound damping to control oscillation and keep the tire in contact with the road. Wheel hop on braking and acceleration is caused by uncontrolled oscillations induced by a bump that the shock(s) can't control, spring goes back and forth until the energy input is dissipated by the shock. Doesn't mean that this is totally wrong just that the test method is not accounting for all possible variables.
Steve

You've got a point there, but watching the dude in the video demonstrate the striking difference between full stiff and 1/8 turn from stiff was troubling. Also, I've driven with all four on full stiff and it feels like I'm riding on pogo sticks. It just never stops oscillating, as you say. They are excellent shocks. My take is that, if the setup is not stiff enough, don't expect to turn them to full stiff and achieve success, you'll need stiffer springs. I'm changing out my T springs for something stiffer.

 

[steveespo]

Yeah, I wasn't giving further a hard time, just questioning the test protocol of that video. I don't run full firm, 2.5/3.0 front and 2.0/2.5 rear. Sometimes softer at Lime Rock. I use P springs currently but plan on going with coil overs to have a greater selection of spring rates. Our cars need more spring for serious track use, and with stiffer springs dampers that are matched to those rates. I feel the Konis are well matched to the "sport" springs such as Boss, P, K or T, even the H&R race springs. Once you pass 350 lb/in I think more damping will be needed. Hopefullyblacksheep-1 will join this conversation, as tire spring rate affects this overall equation too.
Steve

 

[Roadhouse]

I'm running Koni adjustables with H&R race springs and I am running the rears at full soft and the fronts just a little more stiff than full soft. My springs are very stiff and this seems to work out pretty well for me. I havent played around with them all that much. Slicks, lots of camber, no rear sway...

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Good information guys, and thank you for sharing. I'm very happy with the Koni's so far and will keep testing.

I run the KB rear suspension set up and it was a great improvement over stock. I was a bit concerned about the elimination of the rear sway bar. I had issues with the KB UCA and changed it out for the Steeda adjustable UCA using the stock body mount bracket. I also replaced the diff housing upper bush.

The result was very nice as the rear of the car now straightens up with throttle application coming out of the turn. For practice, I would start a large diameter turn from stop, with a lot of throttle, then shift to second gear mid turn. This would really kick the rear end around and then I would practice controlling the induced oversteer with throttle, avoiding the Snap action found if you lifted the throttle.

Now, I can maintain throttle and the rear comes back in line very quickly with slightly more throttle. Looking forward now for the next HPDE in my area to further sort it out on the track.

In general, I also find the body roll and weight transfer of the car is better, in that you can now feel when to apply throttle, (if that makes since). I can feel the car much better, and I love the sensation of the front fender lift as the rear squats coming out of the turn. I find I can apply a lot more throttle sooner.

Also wondering if I should consider the 18Mm rear sway bar, but I'll have to see how the front end reacts going in hard and braking later. (This is new to me).

Please know that I am just a beginner in tracking Mustangs, I have some Porsche experience, but that was years ago, (now you know why I have this obsession with setting up early and maintaining throttle thru the apex!).

Just want to say thank you to the members here as I have learned so much technical information on setting up my Boss from all of you here at BMO. Now looking for Driver Mods so I can begin my adventure to experience all that this soon to be Legendary car has to offer.

Sorry about rambling on about the Boss,
All the Best and Enjoy your Boss,
Hi Pro
Dave

 

[VoodooBoss]

You've got a point there, but watching the dude in the video demonstrate the striking difference between full stiff and 1/8 turn from stiff was troubling. Also, I've driven with all four on full stiff and it feels like I'm riding on pogo sticks. It just never stops oscillating, as you say. They are excellent shocks. My take is that, if the setup is not stiff enough, don't expect to turn them to full stiff and achieve success, you'll need stiffer springs. I'm changing out my T springs for something stiffer.

FWIW the T springs were designed to lower a stock Boss using the stock dampers and to keep the ride close to stock. Our Ford Racing contacts have always recommended the P spring for track use as it's stiffer. The P offers a nice compromise for street and track use. For more serious track use try the H&R race springs although some members think they are too stiff for the street.

 

[further]

FWIW the T springs were designed to lower a stock Boss using the stock dampers and to keep the ride close to stock. Our Ford Racing contacts have always recommended the P spring for track use as it's stiffer. The P offers a nice compromise for street and track use. For more serious track use try the H&R race springs although some members think they are too stiff for the street.

I'm one step ahead of you. This will be arriving at my house soon.

H&R race springs
Steeda third link adj UCA
Steeda bumpsteer kit
Steeda x11 ball joints.

The T springs are still pretty good on the track, with a marked improvement over stock, but still remain docile on the street. I've got an 18 mm rear sway that will replace my stock rear.

 

[BOSSSTANG]

Has anyone been able to find out the spring rate of the T-springs yet? I am in the process of going to Koni's (waiting for front camber plates) and am wondering what rates I'm working with..

subscribed otherwise!

eye candy to keep thread going

 

[2012Boss302]

^ Bump