LCA Relocation Brackets

[cloud9]

Good deal Tracy. I will say FR's customer service is unmatched in the industry.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Good deal Tracy. I will say FR's customer service is unmatched in the industry.

I would have to say Boss Mustang Online is also unmatched. ;D

Thanks Gary!!

 

[MLM]

Very nice.

 

[808Boss]

And that was good enough for me.



for me too. I'm a sucker for huge R&D departments ;-)
I've also tried to sway toward ford stuff for as many of the mods as I can...so that's part of it too.

while my car will never see a drag strip and has yet to see a track, I opted to have the relo brackets welded in for extra peace of mind. I don't see the harm, though I agree with folks' assessments that it's not necessary for anything other than extreme drag racing.

So do you bolt the Ford racing relocation bracket in first, then weld it in? Sorry if this is a dumb question. I was thinking of doing some drag racing... My friend was going to lend me his slicks, Mickey thompson et streets bias ply. Since my car is lowered with p-springs, I'm looking at getting the frpp relocation brackets and welding them in since that's the recommendation. Also is there a preferred LCA that's good for drag racing? If anyone has an opinion or comment, I'd appreciate it. Thanks....

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

The FRPP brackets do not require welding, they are only bolted-in from the factory on the 302S cars.

 

[808Boss]

The FRPP brackets do not require welding, they are only bolted-in from the factory on the 302S cars.

So it would be ok to use with frpp relocation brackets just bolted in (without welding) to do some drag racing with slicks? I've heard that the relocation brackets should be welded in for drag racing, especially if I'm lowered with the p-springs...Just want to clarify that part..

 

[LindsayEOD]

So it would be ok to use with frpp relocation brackets just bolted in (without welding) to do some drag racing with slicks? I've heard that the relocation brackets should be welded in for drag racing, especially if I'm lowered with the p-springs...Just want to clarify that part..

If I were drag racing, I would go ahead and weld them in. I was told by BMR that their LCA brackets don't have to be welded in for road racing but if I was going to drag race, specifically with slicks, I should consider welding them.

 

[cloud9]

If I were drag racing, I would go ahead and weld them in. I was told by BMR that their LCA brackets don't have to be welded in for road racing but if I was going to drag race, specifically with slicks, I should consider welding them.

That's what I have been told as well and what I did on my GT500 when I was drag racing it.

 

[Justin]

Every other set I have seen requires or recommends welding them in if drag racing with slicks is to be done. I dont know why the ford racing parts would be any different unless they are made of the unobtainium lol

 

[VoodooBoss]

Every other set I have seen requires or recommends welding them in if drag racing with slicks is to be done. I dont know why the ford racing parts would be any different unless they are made of the unobtainium lol

They're not and FR recommends welding in the brackets if you're going to be drag racing and using slicks.

 

[NewBossowner]

Most of the shock load of the launch is transmitted directly to the lower control arms. Definately bolt and weld them in if you are going to drag race with slicks.

 

[Fat Boss]

OK I have read through everything and have a legit problem. I have the FR relocation brackets and recently bought the BMR LCA's with the spherical bearing on the axle end and poly bushings on the body end. I have a gap! Now there's really no chance the spherical bearing end was made incorrectly right? Are there two different widths to the LCA relocation brackets on the market? Are the FR ones wider? Without verifying it appears as though the width of the BMR's is the same as the width of the stock LCA's. Anyone know the story on these? I have the mother of all track days at Spring Mtn in a week and a half !!!

This is the gap:


This is the other side for reference:


And here's a shot of the spherical bearing:

 

[Theviking]

I have Steeda LCA's with the spherical bushings and while there was a gap it definitely did not look that severe. After the bolts were torqued the bracket compressed enough to remove this space. I've seen others use a large washer to fill the void and perhaps that's a better solution. But not sure either solution would work well with the space you have to remove.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Suggestion

Take the bolt with you to a hardware or automotive parts store. Buy grade 8 flat washers to fill the gap. Instsall the washers equally on both sides of the car and the sleeve as needed.

Torque and drive.

I had a issue with FRPP LCAs which were manufactured wrong. I filled the gap with washers until receiving replacements from Ford directly. Yes, this is one reason I stick with Ford parts. THe fix their issues.

 

[Fat Boss]

Thanks guys. I got an email back from BMR and they said FR uses a different width on their brackets. He said it'd be fine to use some washers as spacers, and I also have a line on a set of BMR brackets so I should be good to go this Sat.

 

[SoFlaBoss]

Suggestion

Take the bolt with you to a hardware or automotive parts store. Buy grade 8 flat washers to fill the gap. Instsall the washers equally on both sides of the car and the sleeve as needed.

Torque and drive.

I had a issue with FRPP LCAs which were manufactured wrong. I filled the gap with washers until receiving replacements from Ford directly. Yes, this is one reason I stick with Ford parts. THe fix their issues.

Sorry, IMO many aftermarket part manufacturers, including Steeda, are superior to Ford/FRPP. That slight gap that TheViking experienced is due to the FRPP LCA relocation brackets not totally fitting flush with the inside of the factory LCA bracket, not so much due the width of the Steeda LCA bushing. You can see that the Steeda LCA fits relatively flush with the portion inside of the factory LCA bracket, just not so flush against the inside portion of the FRPP LCA relocation bracket. Adding washers likely would not help, as both "inside portions" are not totally flush with each other, at least before torqueing everything down. I had FRPP LCA relocation brackets on my Boss with BBR Billet LCAs, which are identical to Steeda Billet LCAs, and had the same slight gap between the inside areas of the FRPP brackets. However, it was fine after properly torqueing everything. Below are photos I took during my install, all of them taken after the bolts had been torqued. At least that was my experience. Overall, I'm very pleased with the quality of the FRPP LCA relocation brackets, and will be using the same on my 2013 GT.

 

[Tob]

I added the FRPP Relocation Brackets to my S197 pig and noticed a similar discrepancy. My stock arm looked something like the following before the bracket was installed...



Look at the above carefully. Cinching the bracket inward via tightening the LCA bolt brings the two faces out of square. Using a washer(s) is your best bet. I verified that the stock arm width at the rear matched the MM Extreme Duty arms I have been using...







I also welded mine. Peace of mind at 725hp.





Using the upper bracket hole, my LCA angle changed by six degrees...





The writeup I did is below if anyone is interested.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/svt-shelby-gt500-150/916575-frpp-m-5650-lca-relocation-bracket-install.html

 

[SoFlaBoss]

I added the FRPP Relocation Brackets to my S197 pig and noticed a similar discrepancy. My stock arm looked something like the following before the bracket was installed...



Look at the above carefully. Cinching the bracket inward via tightening the LCA bolt brings the two faces out of square. Using a washer(s) is your best bet. I verified that the stock arm width at the rear matched the MM Extreme Duty arms I have been using...

Hi Tob, Like you confirmed ..the inside faces of the lower portion of the bracket are wider than they should be. Fortunately when I torqued mine with the larger BBR billet LCA, the lower portion pulled together and remained fairly square. I don't like that there was any distortion to the brackets, however, it doesn't appear to have harmed the integrity of the brackets, so I still plan to reuse the brackets on my 2013 GT. My GT is an automatic with about 400 HP, so they should be okay just bolted-in, even on DRs. I'll just keep an eye on them.

 

[Fat Boss]

Thanks for the info Tob. I'll see how the BMR brackets are and report back.

 

[Fat Boss]

The BMR brackets were better. I'm a former machinist so I like things to have a good slip fit. The BMR's were not that close, but close enough that I could not slide a washer in. It sucked in good under the torque.

So far I like them. No indication that there is a spherical joint and not bushings at the axle side and no increased NVH that I can detect. I can tell there is decreased axle wrap. Car is now track ready after springs, LCA's, C/C's, wheels/tires. Hitting Spring Mtn on Fri and Sat with the Shelby (and a bunch of Boss) guys.