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Longer 14x1.5 ARP Wheels Studs for S550/GT350

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@Black Boss The 1" longer than stock is 3.44" under head length. How much longer do you need?

I measured an R Stud and had about 2.825" UHL. Now the ARP has the Bullet end so the usable thread ends up being about 2.500" You loose about .400" with the bullet end. Shoot me an email and I can send you some pictures of a S550 and ARP 100-7733 (1") I don't have the R stud (Its being used for dimension drawing)in front of me but the ARP mimics the OEM stud from the head to where the thread starts.
 
@tim The front studs are longer on the R than the Rears. The OE fronts are 3.75" UHL, accounting for the bullet, the ARP's would need to be 4.15". I don't have the Rear length, but will measure tomorrow -- my guess is that's the 2.825" UHL, with the bullet you'd be at 3.225" so the current long studs would work at the rear....
 
Here's my front wheel with a 25mm spacer. Should be pretty close to the R CF wheel. There is no room for error here and I would think a slightly longer stud is in order although these might work.

F695EE77-16ED-4472-9488-78402F7210B4_zpsnwst3ukp.jpg
B3992D2D-688F-4E44-8D70-E83CB5BC631E_zpslkmqc1qh.jpg

FWIW the stock lug nuts only go on about 10 full turns while my open Ford Performance lug nuts take over 11 full turns.
 
492
387
DFW, TX
@Black Boss I would just reach out to MSI if you need something that long. The tooling costs would out weigh the market demand.

@Black Boss did you ever contact MSI?

If I try doing 11" square setup I don't want the front and rear to look too much different and wondering what studs MSI offers actually work on an S550/GT350. First enquires went unanswered.

I really don't want to add extra weight back in the car with longer studs than needed, after buying lighter wheels. I know, it is hardly anything...

I could run "R" ARP studs in the back and the longer ones on the front with the 1" spacer and it wouldn't look that much different. Or, add an R hub in the front

The MSI studs look nice pieces. But I have no idea what knurl dia, etc values for the S550 studs.
 
492
387
DFW, TX
Don't take the following chart as fact, but it's based on the best information I had available. I'll update it if people have actual measurements.

It looks like MSI has a stock length wheel stud with an added bullet nose for those that don't like some a huge amount of threads sticking out. Their dimension chart is messed up but I can infer what they mean by their numbers they provide.

If you want to run a square setup then it looks like running the R front hub would work with a 1" spacer and not having to run open nuts. Also, some after market wheels are slightly thicker than the non-R wheels at the back and the rear R hub may work for that as they are slightly longer.

Looks like there is no ready made aftermarket stud that will work in the front of an R running the carbon wheels as I think Black Boss had discovered.

As I said, this may not be completely accurate. Your help would be appreciated to correct any errors.

Edit - the stuff in orange are educated guesses.
c177d17eb944052a6bf9dac8eb42b119.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
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Picked up my Ford Performance M-5300-W springs on Friday. Hopefully will get started next week. Install for suspension: Vorshlag caster/camber perches, FP M-5300-W springs, Carbotech XP-20 front pads & XP-12 rear pads, ARP wheel studs w/Dorman lug nuts. Waited for approx 2 months for the FP springs. Will post pics as I progress. Hope that the setup works well on the track.
 
ARP wheel studs installed. There is no way to install the wheel studs without removing the hub. Easy job. Press the old studs out with a hydraulic press. Use the Lisle 22800 wheel stud install tool to keep the studs square as they are drawn in place. Works well.

IMG_0218.JPGIMG_0219.JPGIMG_0221.JPGIMG_0222.JPGIMG_0223.JPGIMG_0224.JPGIMG_0225.JPGIMG_0226.JPG
 
I'm getting ready to tackle this stud install job on my GT350 front hubs in preparation for my shiny new Apex wheels. I've done this several times on my SN95 cars. I know you said the hub has to come off. Any tricks or "gotchas"? Obviously, the wheel, caliper, rotor have to come off. Is it just a matter of unbolting those four bolts to get the hub off?
 

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