Looking for feedback on this rear brake kit

[2012YellowBoss]

So if the solution is to run a less aggressive pad in the rear to compensate out for the additional brake torque that is generated in order to keep the bias similar or the same, what is the point of doing the rear brake upgrade?

IMO, probably no point unless you're going to do the larger '13 GT500 front brake setup as well--that should retain some semblance of brake bias that the ABS is calibrated to work with and you can run whatever pads you want.

Pretty much but if you swap out the front and rear I would not be surprised if you need the Shelby ABS module. For now I am not parting with the parts until I see some longer term reviews of just changing the rears. I am sure it will be fine on the street but need to see how someone running harder on track feels after a few days. With the more aggressive brakes on the front it may be doable for me. What I am being told is race teams that look at every hundredth of a second.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Pretty much but if you swap out the front and rear I would not be surprised if you need the Shelby ABS module. For now I am not parting with the parts until I see some longer term reviews of just changing the rears. I am sure it will be fine on the street but need to see how someone running harder on track feels after a few days. With the more aggressive brakes on the front it may be doable for me. What I am being told is race teams that look at every hundredth of a second.

Yeah you may be right about needing the Shelby module for the perfect calibration, however I'd take my chances with the 302R race module. It's not going to be as good as the $8000 BOSCH M4 stuff that's allowed in CTSCC now, but I can't afford that anyways.

ALSO--Scott I am assuming you didn't install the 302R master cylinder when you put those Brembos on; I am very interested to hear your feedback about brake operation and feel on the track with that setup. I may replicate it in the future as I'm not particularly interested in buying a $3500 M/C unless absolutely necessary.

 

[2012YellowBoss]

Yeah you may be right about needing the Shelby module for the perfect calibration, however I'd take my chances with the 302R race module. It's not going to be as good as the $8000 BOSCH M4 stuff that's allowed in CTSCC now, but I can't afford that anyways.

I know next to nothing compared to others racing but I was thinking about the fact you had the R, S module. I do know they switched the modules with the new brakes but that is racing at the highest form.

ALSO--Scott I am assuming you didn't install the 302R master cylinder when you put those Brembos on; I am very interested to hear your feedback about brake operation and feel on the track with that setup. I may replicate it in the future as I'm not particularly interested in buying a $3500 M/C unless absolutely necessary.

There was no talk about needing it and no I do not have it. I would get the same ABS module you have and may need it at some point, not sure. However the reason I did not swap it is because if I make it up to Road Atlanta, Barber or other tracks I would use sport mode until I learned the track. I know that is cheating like the auto blip thingy ;D but can't afford to bend up the car with all the fancy mods now :

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Not a bad idea to play it safe. Let us know how the pro series fronts work with the stock master cyl! And now you get to get the 1" thick pads too!

 

[steveespo]

I have run the Baer 14" rears since my car was practically new and the hasn't been any rear bias issues on track over the past two seasons. I run Carbotech pads with a 2 step difference currently XP12/XP8 like many of us on the forum do with Hawk or Pagid pads as well.

Since installing the 15" fronts from the 13 GT 500 I have seen front ABS intervention on street tires, on the street while testing and bedding the brakes that I don't recall ever happening with the stock front brembo/Carbotech setups.
My first track day with the new setup is next Saturday at my home track Lime Rock, so I will have some comparative data from last fall to go against and subjective feel on how the setup performs. I don't believe a new master cylinder is needed, the race abs controller may be an option but like others I don't always want to fully disable advance track on tracks that I am unfamiliar with. That may be a crutch but wadding up $60000 worth of car is not my idea of fun if I do something stupid or way over my head. I will post my observations on the new combo and hopefully it translates to lap time. I have said before, the big rears may not improve braking much but they do look good behind the wheels. I paid $535 for the Baer kit, sale at CJ Pony parts.
Steve

 

[cloud9]

Looking forward to your review after Limerock Steve.

 

[DGRacing]

Pretty much but if you swap out the front and rear I would not be surprised if you need the Shelby ABS module. For now I am not parting with the parts until I see some longer term reviews of just changing the rears. I am sure it will be fine on the street but need to see how someone running harder on track feels after a few days. With the more aggressive brakes on the front it may be doable for me. What I am being told is race teams that look at every hundredth of a second.

I've been doing it since last year without a problem. My instructors last year always commented about my brakes and asked what they were. Although I recently installed the 302s/r ABS module as well. I run 14" rotors all around with more aggressive pad up front with stock calipers, upgraded SS brake lines, brake ducts and titanium pad plates.

I did have some rear end lightness in (high speed) braking (at one point last year) but it was solved with aero and LCAs.

I'm currently doing VIR full laps around 2:15-2:20 with a good amount of room to grow (car is heavy and not stripped and I'm no lightweight, full tank of gas, spare tire in the trunk, etc. jk). FWIW.

I think with regards to rotor size, brake bias etc, there are many things about the "complete system" that have to be balanced. It all plays together. Pad material, brake bias, suspension, ABS module, calipers, etc. Perhaps the rear LCAs and ride height address any rear brake (from larger rotor) looseness? Not sure.

With the stock ABS module, I probably wouldn't add bigger calipers in the rear, bigger rotors and a pad of equal grip as the front. But as far as upgrading rotor size and running a less aggressive pad, for me at least, it has shown improvement.
K&N Brakes commented about the differences between friction(pads) and torque(rotor size) in another thread, so I'm not sure the two negate each other.

This will require more experimenting from others. I'm happy to try different settings and give feedback. I used the bottom hole of my LCA's last year, running middle hole now, etc.

 

[DGRacing]

I have run the Baer 14" rears since my car was practically new and the hasn't been any rear bias issues on track over the past two seasons. I run Carbotech pads with a 2 step difference currently XP12/XP8 like many of us on the forum do with Hawk or Pagid pads as well.

Since installing the 15" fronts from the 13 GT 500 I have seen front ABS intervention on street tires, on the street while testing and bedding the brakes that I don't recall ever happening with the stock front brembo/Carbotech setups.
My first track day with the new setup is next Saturday at my home track Lime Rock, so I will have some comparative data from last fall to go against and subjective feel on how the setup performs. I don't believe a new master cylinder is needed, the race abs controller may be an option but like others I don't always want to fully disable advance track on tracks that I am unfamiliar with. That may be a crutch but wadding up $60000 worth of car is not my idea of fun if I do something stupid or way over my head. I will post my observations on the new combo and hopefully it translates to lap time. I have said before, the big rears may not improve braking much but they do look good behind the wheels. I paid $535 for the Baer kit, sale at CJ Pony parts.
Steve

Yes.

PS. Not to drift off Gary's topic, but one thing I like about these rotors (in the front) is that the brake duct pushes air "through" the entire rotor and onto the brake pad surface itself, while also allowing heat/gas ventilation through and out of the rotor veins (another topic for debate perhaps).

 

[PeteInCT]

What exactly were your instructors commenting on about your brakes?

 

[DGRacing]

What exactly were your instructors commenting on about your brakes?

"Wow. You have great brakes on this thing. What are they?" By two of them. But who knows what theyre used to on their cars.

 

[ls110]

Regarding the 2013 GT500 rear brakes, below is the part list and pricing from Tousley Ford. I had these installed last fall and have not tracked them yet. My intent is to do what others have suggested and use a less aggressive pad.

Caliper - DR3Z-2552-A $81
Caliper - DR3Z-2553-A $72
2 Rotors - DR3Z-2C026-A $74.40*2= $149
ADAPTOR - DR3Z-2C100-A $57
ADAPTOR - DR3Z-2C101-A $57
BRAKE LINING CR3Z-2200-A KIT $95
Total - $511 plus shipping

 

[Zquez]

Not too shabby. Thats pretty affordable for the rears as long as they make a real difference.

 

[steveespo]

Regarding the 2013 GT500 rear brakes, below is the part list and pricing from Tousley Ford. I had these installed last fall and have not tracked them yet. My intent is to do what others have suggested and use a less aggressive pad.

Caliper - DR3Z-2552-A $81
Caliper - DR3Z-2553-A $72
2 Rotors - DR3Z-2C026-A $74.40*2= $149
ADAPTOR - DR3Z-2C100-A $57
ADAPTOR - DR3Z-2C101-A $57
BRAKE LINING CR3Z-2200-A KIT $95
Total - $511 plus shipping

Take the $95 off for the pad kit and you have an improved setup for $420. I really like what Ford does for our hobby.
Steve

 

[VoodooBoss]

Are the GT500 rear calipers different? I thought they were the same.

 

[2012YellowBoss]

Are the GT500 rear calipers different? I thought they were the same.

From what I have been told it is the same part but may have a different part number. Can't remember for sure about the part number being different (getting old) but I remember correctly that several knowledgeable people said they are the same. You need to swap backing plates and rotors. Use the same calipers, brackets, bolts and pads.

LS110 has had this done and may know better or he has extra parts added that may not have been needed.

I am itching to slap these on but so is everyone else. When I do not see any "wadded up" (you've been watching too much NASCAR there : ) by seasons end I may give it a go. For now they work great in the house collecting the excess dust floating around.

 

[steveespo]

From what I have been told it is the same part but may have a different part number. Can't remember for sure about the part number being different (getting old) but I remember correctly that several knowledgeable people said they are the same. You need to swap backing plates and rotors. Use the same calipers, brackets, bolts and pads.

LS110 has had this done and may know better or he has extra parts added that may not have been needed.

I am itching to slap these on but so is everyone else. When I do not see any "wadded up" (you've been watching too much NASCAR there : ) by seasons end I may give it a go. For now they work great in the house collecting the excess dust floating around.

The calipers have probably been given some engineering updates sufficient to warrant a new part #. They do fit the same bolt spacing as our calipers.

In honor of David Hobbs and Formula 1 season starting, I will say "I hope not to be involved in any Turn 1 schlomozzles" this year. I also don't want my engine going "Kablammo"
Steve

 

[ls110]

LS110 has had this done and may know better or he has extra parts added that may not have been needed.

What initiated my decision to switch to the GT500s was damaged seals on the calipers. The seals had been missing/damaged for awhile and I probably would have been OK to continue using them. Probably could have gotten more life out of my rotors and pads, but did not save those either. I will defer to the others' posts regarding if the calipers changed any from stock.

 

[2012YellowBoss]

And now you get to get the 1" thick pads too!

;D Yea buddy ;D ;D I have to hide these away deep in the shop Just walking by them gives me a w : ody

 

[VoodooBoss]

If you're buying new rotors anyway that expense is a non event. So I think all you need are rotors, brackets and possibly new longer brake lines.

 

[2012YellowBoss]

PS. Not to drift off Gary's topic, but one thing I like about these rotors (in the front) is that the brake duct pushes air "through" the entire rotor and onto the brake pad surface itself, while also allowing heat/gas ventilation through and out of the rotor veins (another topic for debate perhaps).

No debate, I noticed these and asked if there was any difference in application because of height or other reasons. I was told no and they only difference is for the allowance of passing air from the inside where the brake ducts are to the outside of the rotor and pads for additional cooling.

I was told they were originally developed for some Rolex cars. They then made their way to CTSCC cars but there is no data on how much they will help. The teams put infer-red cameras focused on the inside but could not mount on the outside of the car to measure the difference. It would be nice to see some real data, unlike some vendors that throw parts on the market with little testing and tall stories. However this is one of the those things that seems obvious, the more air the better cooling. Like using three inch to four inch brake ducts, which one is better?