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Lowering 2013 Boss...just need some quick advice.

I know there are a ton of posts already on this topic, but I'm only looking to lower my car using the eibach sportline kit. Not going to the track or doing anything crazy. Based on this, I've read a lot about what additional components you need to make sure you are going to get the best ride/handling experience after lowering. Again, I appreciate anyone who can give me some solid advice as I'm looking to do this within the next 2-3 weeks. :)

1. I definitely will buy a camber kit as I think this is important. Any advice on which kind that won't break the budget?

2. I will buy an adjustable panhard bar which I also think is important. What kind do I get? Does it really need to be adjustable?

3. Do I really need a new set of LCA's and brackets if I'm not going to track or drag my car? It seems everyone is doing this, but I'm assuming they are tracking their cars when I won't be.

4. Am I missing anything extremely important as an add on that I need to have if I am lowering my car (again, using the Eibach Sportline kit)? What about a bumpsteer kit? Sorry for all these questions. Here's a cool pic below. Thanks!

photo17_zps88ca5ff9.jpg
 

Seven

Dacia Sandero
1 - Camber kits (any of them worth a darn) are all 300-350 - Most like the Maximum Motorsport ones, I do too.
2 - No pref - haven't researched it myself yet
3 - Doesn't hurt but can easily get away without it if you won't see any track time
4 - A good alignment :)
 
1: i used mm camber plates..
2: if its not adjustable why buy it. you have a non adjustable already. i would get one. i used sphon
3: no need to if your not tracking it ext. its going to help solve wheel hop ext.
4: as stated..a good alignment
 

pufferfish

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Maryland
Just get the eibach camber bolts for under 30 bucks and any adjustable panhard. You need the adjustable one because of a geometry change with lowering. No way around this. Then have a 4 wheel alignment and call it a day. You are likely just fine with your rear control arms. Actually, lowering these cars in the rear automatically provides better pinion angle for less wheel hop.

There's really no need to spend big bucks when all you want is a lower stance. If you want, I can help you get the components you need on my site.
 
The Adjustable Panhard rod is so you can center the car so that the tires are the same distance from the fender on both sides. Too much one way might cause rubbing on one side, especially if you are lowering.
 
Thanks for the advice! I've check out the mm camber plates and will buy those with an adjustable panhard bar. I think that will pretty much do it. Thanks for the help in here everyone.
 
yankeehick said:
Thanks for the advice! I've check out the mm camber plates and will buy those with an adjustable panhard bar. I think that will pretty much do it. Thanks for the help in here everyone.

Posted this up in another thread but if you are looking for a deal on an adjustable Panhard bar, check out this link to the Ingalls bar that is on sale. It cost me $98 including shipping for the bar. The bar is built very well and I just installed it and everything fit properly. Up to you whether you use the relocation kit (I did but I track my car).

http://www.ingallseng.com/93306-rear_panhard-bar-kit-2005-08-mustang.html
 
jnathan68 said:
Posted this up in another thread but if you are looking for a deal on an adjustable Panhard bar, check out this link to the Ingalls bar that is on sale. It cost me $98 including shipping for the bar. The bar is built very well and I just installed it and everything fit properly. Up to you whether you use the relocation kit (I did but I track my car).

http://www.ingallseng.com/93306-rear_panhard-bar-kit-2005-08-mustang.html

Thanks buddy. That is a great deal for sure.
 
Maybe a dumb question, but if all you want to do is lower the Boss, do you need to replace the dampers? I was thinking of just getting the Ford Racing lowering springs, strut mounts, and adjustable panhard bar. Are the Eibach dampers an upgrade over the Boss's?
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
Fiddler49 said:
Maybe a dumb question, but if all you want to do is lower the Boss, do you need to replace the dampers? I was thinking of just getting the Ford Racing lowering springs, strut mounts, and adjustable panhard bar. Are the Eibach dampers an upgrade over the Boss's?
you will be fine with stock dampers.
 
All the above is sound advice IMO. Sometimes less is more and when your only goal is a lowered stance you can't go wrong with just the basics. I've used the camber bolts over plates for years. They work well unless your going racing. They just don't have enough adjustment range for all out racing. I use Eibach camber bolt kit 5.81260K $24.99 delivered from latemodelrestoration.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/EIB-581260K/Ford-Mustang-Eibach-Camber-Adjustment-Bolts
 
Fiddler49 said:
Maybe a dumb question, but if all you want to do is lower the Boss, do you need to replace the dampers? I was thinking of just getting the Ford Racing lowering springs, strut mounts, and adjustable panhard bar. Are the Eibach dampers an upgrade over the Boss's?

Yea no dampers necessary. I went with eibach sportline kit, MM panhard bar and camber plates. I opted for the actual plates vs bolts only because it makes me feel better - and money isn't strapping me down.
 
pufferfish said:
Actually, lowering these cars in the rear automatically provides better pinion angle for less wheel hop.

Can you delineate further? This statement runs contrary to everything I've see with regard to pinion angle as well as the subsequent change or shift in A/S geometry.
 
HackBoss302 said:
All the above is sound advice IMO. Sometimes less is more and when your only goal is a lowered stance you can't go wrong with just the basics. I've used the camber bolts over plates for years. They work well unless your going racing. They just don't have enough adjustment range for all out racing. I use Eibach camber bolt kit 5.81260K $24.99 delivered from latemodelrestoration.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/EIB-581260K/Ford-Mustang-Eibach-Camber-Adjustment-Bolts

Do these bolts just have a smaller head that allows you to move the strut a little?
 
I put on Eibach Prokit on my 2012 Boss. As known spring rate is progressive
Standard Boss Srings Prokit SportLine
Front 148.5 lb/in Front 159-273 lb/in Front 183-296 lb/in
Rear 185 lb/in Rear 126-193-279 lb/in Rear 103-217-302 lb/in
Prokit Drop .6 in front and 1.0 in rear from Boss height (ride is a little bouncier)
Sportline Drop 1.0 in front and 1.8 in rear from Boss height
When I lowered car I added added Maximum Motorsports Camber plates
After 1 month I changed pan hard bar too
J and H aluminum pan hard bar. 1.130 OD Solid Aluminum 4.25 lbs
Stock Pan Hard Bar Steel 6.5 lbs (Hollow with filler like sand must be for NVH)
J&H PHB not adjustable when installed. You have to measure axle L/R offset then shorten bar by about 1/2 of offset
After 3 months I added
BMR LCA relocation brackets. Big difference!!!
J and H extreme tubular Lower Control Arms (Stock arms weigh 11.5 lbs and J and H arms weigh 7.5 lbs)
You will really feel the difference with relocation brackets as I did not add these when I lowered the car. If needed, the stock LCA's will fit with the brackets but they are a tight fit. The JH LCA's are nice because of spherical ends at axle. None of the alumimum LCA's have this spherical end because they are not designed for torsion.
Eibach sportline kit is even lower so I would invest in LCA brackets. Without LCA brackets accelerating will lift axle and you loose traction. I know this by experience.
Front struts are the most difficult with camber plates as you need to use a rubberband to hold the camber plates in place. Also second strut is difficult to get sway bar link into strut but it takes some effort as the sway bar needs to be flexed. Knowing this tells me sportline springs will be more difficult to get installed in front struts than prokit.
If you decide to change the rear LCA's then you might need some leverage to get the bolt in place for the second arm. Do the passenger side first then the driver side as the second LCA will be more difficult. However,the drivers side you can use an opening for the pan hard bar to get some leverage with a crow bar to pull the axle forward. I have not changed rear upper control arm yet.
 
seca954 said:
Do these bolts just have a smaller head that allows you to move the strut a little?

Yes and no, they do have a smaller head, but that is not what allows for the adjustment aspect. The bolts are a cam style bolt. They are smaller in diameter with a cam to allow about 1.5 degrees of total camber adjustment. I have use these to autox for years with no issues. With P-springs I was able to get 2.1 degrees of negative camber for autox and then on the street these allowed enough adjustment to run 1 degree negative camber. The factory setting is .75 to 1.25 negative if menory serves me correctly.
 
El Jefe 302 said:
I thought Ford Racing was supposed to be working on Boss 302 specific lowering springs? Did these ever happen or no?

Yes, Ford just released the Boss specific springs. Here's the latest thread on the subject.
https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=4475.msg69515#msg69515
 
yankeehick said:
Thanks for the advice! I've check out the mm camber plates and will buy those with an adjustable panhard bar. I think that will pretty much do it. Thanks for the help in here everyone.
If for example you elect to use a lowering kit that does not lower the front too aggressively, like Steeda's Boss Springs, (lowers by about 2mm) the camber plates are not really needed. The rear APB is a must however...
 

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