The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Lowering a mostly street Boss 302

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Double post. Didn't know where to put it...

I'll be using my B302 for 95% street. I'd like to get rid of the rake and lower my car ever so slightly but keep the stock Tokicos. Not looking for a track only stiff ride, rather a ride similar to stock. Perhaps a bit more firm would be ok. How does this look to you guys? Is this how you would do it if you shared my intentions? I want do it correctly, the axle centered and all the geometry where it should be. It all adds up to $1023.90 but am sure I could get it for less elsewhere.

Ok here's what I got. :

2012-2013 BOSS 302 LOWERING SPRINGS M-5300-T
M-5300-T-S.jpg



2005-2014 MUSTANG ADJUSTABLE PANHARD BAR M-4264-A
M-4264-A-S.jpg




2005-2014 MUSTANG TUBULAR REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM KIT - URETHANE BUSHINGS M-5649-R1
M-5649-R1-S.jpg



2005-2014 MUSTANG LOWER CONTROL ARM RELOCATION BRACKETM-5650-A
M-5650-A-S.jpg
 
That's pretty much exactly what my drop cost, I would think about maybe doing the BMR relo brackets since you can adjust the LCA angle with them and also look at adjustable LCA's so you can adjust the thrust angle should it come out of spec.
 

Senderofan

Having more fun than should be allowed..in my Boss
Depending on how much you lower the rear.....you may also need an adjustable upper control arm. Lowering can change the pinion angle.....this puts a lot of stress on the pinion bearing and can wear it out. Just something to consider as well.

Wayne
 
Senderofan said:
Depending on how much you lower the rear.....you may also need an adjustable upper control arm. Lowering can change the pinion angle.....this puts a lot of stress on the pinion bearing and can wear it out. Just something to consider as well.

Wayne

These 'T' springs are supposed to lower the rear 35mm/1.37"

You'd think that FRPP would have a kit that takes care of all potential issues.
 
Randy M said:
You'd think that FRPP would have a kit that takes care of all potential issues.
I rather see a kit to address the clutch pedal sticking to the floor or the trans issuie.
 

Senderofan

Having more fun than should be allowed..in my Boss
Randy M said:
These 'T' springs are supposed to lower the rear 35mm/1.37"

You'd think that FRPP would have a kit that takes care of all potential issues.

My springs lowered the rear by 1.5" ( Not FRPP )......which did require adjusting the pinion angle. I'm sure there is vehicle to vehicle variability even in stock form. I, like you, would hope that Ford Racing took the pinion angle into consideration when developing the T spring. I just wanted to put it out there in case you experience a vibration or noise. Would hate to see a fellow Boss owner burn up a pinion bearing. It's a little more of a pain to get the UCA installed than say LCA's or Panhard rod....but if I can do it....anybody with a pulse surely can.


Nice looking kit...I think you'll enjoy the stance and the upgrade.

Wayne
 
I'm in this same boat too. I have a 2013 Boss that 99% of the time will be driven on the street and I may do a track day once/twice a year. I have new wheels/tires that will be installed soon and would like to lower the car a bit. My initial thought was to go with the Steeda Boss springs, but I fear that those spring will not lower the car to my liking. So now I am considering the FRPP "T" springs.

The good thing about the Steeda springs (from what I have read), is those springs are almost "plug and play" since they don't lower the car all that much. Just an alignment after the install.

The FFRP springs will lower the car to the ride height I am probably looking for, but it seems I need to spend a bunch of extra $$$ on things like a panhard bar, LCAs, brackets, etc....

So my question is.... if I go with the FFRP "T" springs, what is TRULY needed/recommended?

Thanks.
 
Randy,

I too wanted to get rid of the rake but didn't want a much stiffer ride. I love low cars but didn't want the car too much lower as I already have to be a little careful on some driveways and other poor roads. I went with the Steeda Boss spring set (front and rear matched set). I now sit at 28" on all four corners and the ride is great. Not noticeably stiffer but the nose-dive is greatly reduced during hard braking. These springs didn't require adjustable relocation brackets either. I did put in the Steeda UCA and bracket because the pinion angle will change slightly. You will also need an adjustable panhard bar too as the axle will shift slightly. If you haven't put on LCA's yet, do so. All of the above eliminated my wheel hop too! I am very pleased with this set up.
 
CooG302 said:
I'm in this same boat too. I have a 2013 Boss that 99% of the time will be driven on the street and I may do a track day once/twice a year. I have new wheels/tires that will be installed soon and would like to lower the car a bit. My initial thought was to go with the Steeda Boss springs, but I fear that those spring will not lower the car to my liking. So now I am considering the FRPP "T" springs.

The good thing about the Steeda springs (from what I have read), is those springs are almost "plug and play" since they don't lower the car all that much. Just an alignment after the install.

The FFRP springs will lower the car to the ride height I am probably looking for, but it seems I need to spend a bunch of extra $$$ on things like a panhard bar, LCAs, brackets, etc....

So my question is.... if I go with the FFRP "T" springs, what is TRULY needed/recommended?

Thanks.

My car came with the Steeda Boss Springs installed so I can't say how it drove before, but now it rides perfect for me. No nose dive on hard braking and I think the stance is perfect. They quote .2" in the front and .7-.8 inches in the rear which seems perfect to me. I would not want to go any lower as my driveway is a bit steep where it meets the street.

I did install the Steeda Panhard bar and brace as the previous owner shipped them with the car. It was only off center maybe 3/8" max but it bugged me. Drove fine but bugged me. No other mods to the suspension other than the Steeda Boss Springs, Steeda panhard bar and panhard brace. All control arms and mounts stock.

Bossside_zps42720e19.png
 
That looks good. You won't need an UCA with the T springs and a 2 piece driveshaft. The one rather costly item I would consider is a shock upgrade. Those lower spring will certainly accelerate the lifespan of the stock Tokicos. People tend to buy Konis, FRPP d spec, or Bilsteins.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top