I believe you are spot on with the drive shaft. Nothing else should be causing that type of vibration the way you described. Can you not send the drive shaft off for a rebalance and check?
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I need to call and ask.I believe you are spot on with the drive shaft. Nothing else should be causing that type of vibration the way you described. Can you not send the drive shaft off for a rebalance and check?
I don't think I would have been able to keep the ABS without keeping the stock ECU in the car but I could be wrong. I also wanted to get rid of the monstrosity of brake lines in the engine bay. I like the car just fine without it.Nice build. What I'd like to know is, why did you delete the ABS and how are you liking the car without it?
Between rebuilding the rearend and changing the damper it got rid of all of it. I think my ATI damper was actually damaged so I'll probably rebuild it and hold onto it.Wow 500 on a mustang dyno is a solid number.
So did you figure out what the cause of that vibration was?
Yeah, same problem here, I still have the ABS but it doesn't talk to the new computer and doesn't work at all...I keep threatening to delete it but also holding onto the dream that somebody can fix it...so far, no one has.I don't think I would have been able to keep the ABS without keeping the stock ECU in the car but I could be wrong. I also wanted to get rid of the monstrosity of brake lines in the engine bay. I like the car just fine without it.
Mr. Stump,
Assuming that the current rear swaybar on your car is set to full stiff, the front roll stiffness percentage is now 74.8%. With the rear swaybar on full soft, it is now 76.2%. With the Steeda front swaybar, OEM 1” rear swaybar and original rear springs, it was previously 73.2%. The car understeers worse than before, but it has less overall body roll. There is far too much weight transfer between the front tires in corners. This will always result in a lot of understeer. You need to have a larger percentage of the weight transfer during cornering, to happen across the rear tires.
The spring rates on the car look perfect for the weight distribution, so the easiest way to increase weight transfer across the rear axle, while keeping the body roll low is to use a stiffer rear swaybar. If you change the rear swaybar to the MMRSB-9.1 model, on full soft the front roll stiffness percentage will be 71% and on full stiff it will be 68%. To convert your existing rear swaybar to this model, you need to purchase the MMRSB-95 and SB-012. This will make the car vastly faster to drive, as you won’t be waiting, waiting, waiting to be able to get on the throttle until after the corner ends.
Let me know how this works.
Sincerely,
Jack Hidley
Maximum Motorsports Tech Support