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Lubing wheel studs?

AdmirC

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Do you guys put anything on your studs? I find with the constant changing wheels and pads for the track they tend to take a beating. Some old school racers I talked to swore by antiseize on their race cars and going to 80ft/lbs, some people use engine oil, and the new consensus is that dry is the best. Just curious what everyone is doing here? Thanks.
 

TMSBOSS

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I use a "Dry Lube". Sprays on and drys in place. I believe the lubracant is graphite.
 

TMSBOSS

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Oh No!! Tim recommended 90 ft/lbs with his slick lug nuts.
This is what I use.
Jet-Lube Moly-Mist Specialty Oilfield Dry Film Lubricant, 12 oz Aerosol
I bought it on Amazon. They currently do not have this for sale.
 
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Tonymustang302

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Oh No!! Tim recommended 90 ft/lbs with his slick nuts.
This is what I use.
Jet-Lube Moly-Mist Specialty Oilfield Dry Film Lubricant, 12 oz Aerosol
I bought it on Amazon. They currently do not have this for sale.
what? His paperwork i got with them says 140
 

Bill Pemberton

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Guys please rephrase as the Moderators may get a bit touchy with you talking about 90 lbs on Tim's slick nuts, ha?

Holy cow , I could not resist, and Lord knows I tried!!!! I don't care who you are that is funny. That is the kind of quip you expect to see repeated on the Tonight Show..........Ooooooo , what a gem and I just repeated it since it was there for the taking!
 
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Tonymustang302

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I could be wrong, it happens.
you’re right.... from op’s website

**These are Racing Lug Nuts with a low friction coating and require much less than the factory torque specification to properly pre-load the wheel stud. We recommend reducing the torque value from 150ft/lbs. to 120ft/lbs. Lubricants are not required and strongly discouraged. Threads may be cleaned periodically with a brush and lightly wiped down with a light lubricant such as WD40. If you are using these on very used wheel studs with damaged or worn threads please replace your wheel studs. If these are used with our coated wheel studs the torque value should be reduced to 100ft/lbs and adjustments made in small increments to find the ideal torque value for your vehicle after the vehicle has been run through a track session and allowed to cool. If the wheels are maintaining torque consistently there is not need to apply a higher torque. Please keep in mind most modern cordless 3/8" Impact wrenches have the capability to produce very high torques. Use a quality torque instrument for reaching the final torque not verifying that your impact wrench possibly over torqued the fasteners. As with any new installation the installer and user accept full responsibility for proper installation, care and use of our Racing Products***
 

byronj

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Depends on the materials used. For example Ti on 8740 chrome moly steel. Also what is routine to some people? To some it is every other weekend, 3 months, semi annual, etc.

I runs ARP studs with Ti lug nuts. I plan to swap wheels every month or two but due to the ‘Rona virus I haven’t touched my car. But with the anti-seize I’m not worried about it, I also only TQ to 120 Ft Lbs.
 

AdmirC

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Seems like light oil is ok then? I run arp studs and ford racing lug nuts but have been going dry. Has anyone had any corrosion on their arp studs? This is the first year with them and I'm just curious through winter if they will get beat up due to salt and water.
 

TMSBOSS

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The downside to a "Liquid Lubricant" is the tendency for the oils to attract and hold dirt. That's why I use a dry film lube.
The dry film also coats and protects the bare metal.
 

JDee

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The downside to a "Liquid Lubricant" is the tendency for the oils to attract and hold dirt. That's why I use a dry film lube.
The dry film also coats and protects the bare metal.
Can you recommend a good dry lube for wheel studs? Should it be graphite or silicon based? This is something I know diddly about and I do have a concern with it due to how often the wheels are off and on.
 

TMSBOSS

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I use the Jet Moly listed above. Cant find it for sale now.

I would stick with a graphite or moly lube. Mostly because that is what I have used in the past and it has worked well. Never have used a silicone dry lube.
 

byronj

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Seems like light oil is ok then? I run arp studs and ford racing lug nuts but have been going dry. Has anyone had any corrosion on their arp studs? This is the first year with them and I'm just curious through winter if they will get beat up due to salt and water.

My ARP studs are about 4 years old and they have no corrosion at all. I do take a plastic bristle brush and clean the threads of all the metal and debris on them. You should be fine. They do have a lifecycle but I have no idea what it is.
 

Grant 302

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Seems like light oil is ok then? I run arp studs and ford racing lug nuts but have been going dry. Has anyone had any corrosion on their arp studs? This is the first year with them and I'm just curious through winter if they will get beat up due to salt and water.
I use anti-seize on my GT which parks outside and is used in the rain. Dry on the Boss which is in the garage and rarely sees moisture.

Exposed to winter elements and salt...I’d use something on the studs. And probably the hub face/rotor hat.

Not sure about the other torque specs, but still using 100 ft-lbs. for S197.
 

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