Making the Mustang daily driverable after modifying

Hello all, I need some advice on what is likely making my Mustang undrivable on the roads. The car is excessively painful to drive. Driving any road works, bumps, potholes, expansion joints is brutal . In my opinion my car does not have any hardcore track upgrades.

I recently moved to Oahu and the roads are horrific. I'm at the point where I don't want to drive the Mustang anymore.

It's a 2013 GT Track pack. Originally I was not happy with the ride height of the stock suspension and the excessive brake dive of the front end. The plan was not to turn it in to a track car but a fast street car.

I recently drove a 5th gen Camaro ZL1 on bad roads and it was a night and day improvement.

Rather than installing one part at a time and seeing how the car responded, most of the parts were installed at one time when I had returned from a deployment.

The parts include:

20x9 255/35/20, 20x10 305/35/20

Bilstein B6hd struts and shocks
Eibach pro springs
Steeda HD strut mounts
BMR adjustable front endlinks
Boss 302 strut brace
Steeda adjustable front sway bar with poly bushings
Steeda rear sway, endlinks and poly bushings
Whiteline adjustable panhard bar
Whiteline panhard support bar
Steeda Adjustable UCA and poly bushings
Steeda UCA mount
Steeda X brace


I removed the following parts as the rear end nvh at 70mph in 6th was bad:
Whiteline LCA adjustable poly bushings
Whiteline LCA relocation brackets (installed a new pair of track pack LCA)
PolyU diff mount bushing

The reality of it is the car is not likely to see a track for a while, maybe autocross. My main thing is to make the ride not as back breaking like it is now. When I got the car 5 years ago it was nowhere near as bad as it is now.

Which parts are likely causing this?

Should I go for OEM Ford parts from a boss 302 or Laguna seca and completely avoid aftermarket performance parts. The goal is to keep the the improved performance it has now as now as much as possible making the ride comfortable for daily driving.

 

The front are nitto nt555 and rear bfg comp force 2 a/s. Only reason why the difference in tires was I tried to fit bfg's in the front with 40 profile, however they do not clear with a 20" wheel.

The plan is once the rubber wears out to go back down to 19s, with 19x10/19x11.

 

The whiteline relocation brackets only had one fixed hole for the LCA unlike Steeda that has multiple holes.

The springs and shocks come together as the Bilstein B12 kit. I didn't mix and match them together.

I installed the jounce bumpers that come with the B12 kit.

The eibach sportline springs have the bigger drop, the pro kit springs are not as agressive.

Front drop is 1.0 and rear is 1.2.

The B12 kit was the first to go on with the wheels prior to my deployment and from memory, the car wasn't that stiff. It also had the same 20" wheels expect the rear tire profile was even less at 30.

 

Next time I see an Apex sale on here I'm in for 19"s. Before I sold my 19" track pack wheels I tested them. The ride was a little bit better but not by a significant amount.

 

Hello, I've been lurking on here for sometime, it was about time I sign up.

I'm going to sell the 20's also due to wanting lighter wheels. What tires do you recommend?

What should I do regarding the UCA?
The polyurethane bushing in the diff housing was removed and replaced with a new OEM bushing. The only UCA I am aware of that has a rubber bushing is the roush third link.

 

The bushing in the Steeda adjustable UCA is the polyurethane that came with it. I was at Ft Campbell, KY.

 

Do you really think they are needed with a mild drop? You don't feel the brackets would add any added stiffness to the ride?

 

I will check the position of the LCA. Yes the car at 70-80mph in 6th while on Accel would whine from the rear end. The sound is still there but not as bad as it was. Regarding the che brackets, the pictures show the anti vibration axle weights removed, can they remain in place?

 

The harshness got bad when I installed the swaybars, UCA and lca.