mattlqx's Dual-Duty Shelby GT350

[captdistraction]

I did the same on painting the top of the trunk black versus trying to get a blend done, as a cost savings measure. I like the black wrap idea.

 

[mattlqx]

Wrap isn't a bad option but it's $200 to paint in GB so that's not bad. It's the $900 shipped for a new metal lid or about $1100 for carbon fiber. I'm leaning towards the metal because it'd be a heck of a lot easier to reinforce.

I'm with you Drew on APR being good value. Honestly I think the struts/position look a little weird on an S550 and GStream looks a tad better. But whatever, I'd get over either.

 

[mattlqx]

I got these Sir Studlys in the mail today thanks to @VoodooBoss for his spares and Optimum Performance for the 3.5"ers.

 

[kart125]

Nice build thread Matt! I have almost the same mods going!

I installed the WR roll bar and Schroth Profi II ASM during the winter. A racing seat is down the road maybe next spring...
MGW shifter is installed also during hibernaton. Can't wait to try it out and see if I have the vibration issue.
APR splitter and GT250 wings gong on after oil line recall. I was also considering a second deck lid but it's not as cheap as I was expecting. I'm now planning to install APR wing on stock trunk and block the factory holes with SS bolt/washer/rubber washer//decklid//rubber washer/washer/nut to be able to reinstall track spoiler.

I am waiting on a set of Forgeline GS1R with PSC2 in R-spec. should be delivered on the 29th. Also wainting on the R-springs and sway bar but they are backordered. I have a set of MM camber plates also in the mail. I'm considering the FP lowering springs also depending on the specs/rates/linear vs progrressive etc... Waiting on FP front tow hook to be available. Would like to install it at the same time as front splitter since front fascia is going to be off.

SS brake lines/dot 4 motul brake fluid and caliperfexion studs also on deck for install. Will consider race pads and extra set of rotors but later this summer.

Also a couple of less important mods installed last fall (steeda jacking rails/IRS subframe brace/links) As well as 4th brake light-flashing 3rd brake light-raxiom smoked sequential turn signals...

Let the track season begin!

 

[mattlqx]

I picked up an older Sparco Pro-ADV a few weeks ago from a track friend. I was able to get another newer one (still with a valid FIA sticker even until 2019) at a race shop at Willow Springs on my way to Buttonwillow this weekend for the Lucky Dog 24 hour race. Got 'em for dirt cheap.



The UPS elves dropped off some mysterious cardboard boxes today too. Wonder what's in them!

 

[VoodooBoss]

I know what's in that big box and I bet it's heavy!

 

[yotah1]

WR means Watson Racing. Given the size of the box, I'd say 4 point cage

 

[kart125]

Like the seats. What are you going to do to mount sub straps?

 

[mattlqx]

Like the seats. What are you going to do to mount sub straps?

Probably an eye bolt through the mounting bracket. Drew suggested one in the rear. It wouldn't bother me too much to just drill an eye bolt into the frame either though if needed.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

TWO in the rear.

 

[mattlqx]

Oil line recall completed today. Splitter looks okay and I don't see any oil slopped about so, we'll call this a win.

They also fixed a loose half-shaft spindle nut on my drivers rear. I believe it was delivered to me like this and I just never noticed before because I lifted the car with the e-brake on, which made the wheel tight. When the e-brake was disengaged though, there was a small but noticeable amount of play.

 

[mattlqx]

I broke the seal and it's beautiful.

 

[kart125]

Wow! Mine is coming soon also... ETA was 2 weeks when I ordered a week ago! Cant wait to see it installed on a GT350!

 

[VoodooBoss]

I'm looking forward to the wing install. The APR wing and splitter are what I was considering installing before the C2C pieces became available.

 

[mattlqx]

I spent yesterday fixing up my towing rig. The trailer itself had some busted trim around the wheels from a blow-out coming back from Chuckwalla last month, got a new piece put back on and the plastic roof vent cover completely disintegrated on my way out there, replaced that as well. My F-250 had a number of rust spots on the roof that I decided to nip in the bud with some sandpaper and rattle cans of primer and automotive enamel. Ah, the joys of a "don't give a F" old truck.

Today I got two things done on the car. My brother helped (read did most of the work) on the hood pins since automotive body work is his profession and I suck at cutting straight lines. It's a little sickening cutting into a beautifully sculpted hood like the one on the GT350, but no pain, no gain. I went with the GT350R-C placement using the two vacant holes by the air box and just aft of the hood vent. The trickiest part is the inner structure of the hood. We essentially got the same cut out on both the top and inner sections, but really the inner section should be cut away more to allow the sandwich plate that gets placed inside with screwed into (with some nuts) to sit flush against the top part instead of going over the inner structure as well. It's hard to describe but there's some additional void there that allows less engagement and sucks the top part in around the latches a bit. I'll tinker more with this another day, but today I just ran out of time because...

I also got my front ARP wheel studs put in, but that was a giant pain and learning curve because I lacked the stud tool so I used the washer trick. At the end, I tried the double lug nut approach as well and that worked pretty well, but my Ryobi torque gun was letting me down. I'd get 2-3 second bursts out of it after a short while. The thing is just tired, I've had it for like 6 years. But as with all car things, first wheel took several hours. Second wheel took about an hour. I destroyed a bunch of washers and a set of lugs. Oh well, I have more lugs coming anyway.

 

[venom52]

Looks great. I thought about using aerocatch on my hood but tiger racing hoods are really thin.

 

[captdistraction]

even with the stud installer, I needed a fully charged compressor tank and strong impact to get a full seating of the studs.

That said, its imperative you recheck the torque on your wheels a few times for the first week or two. Hopefully the higher torque requirement of the M14 nuts improves the seating vs the older 1/2-20 setups.

 

[mattlqx]

Looks great. I thought about using aerocatch on my hood but tiger racing hoods are really thin.

Are the Tiger hoods that much thinner than these aluminum hoods? I was kind of surprised how thin the aluminum actually is. I'll have to get out the caliper and measure.

 

[Tob]

I also got my front ARP wheel studs put in, but that was a giant pain and learning curve because I lacked the stud tool so I used the washer trick. At the end, I tried the double lug nut approach as well and that worked pretty well, but my Ryobi torque gun was letting me down. I'd get 2-3 second bursts out of it after a short while. The thing is just tired, I've had it for like 6 years. But as with all car things, first wheel took several hours. Second wheel took about an hour. I destroyed a bunch of washers and a set of lugs.

Word of caution. Matt, I would keep a close eye on any stud that was "pulled through" with washers, lug nuts, and an impact gun. While I am not at liberty to share it I have had the opportunity to review and discuss with a manufacturer a complete professional metallurgical analysis of wheel studs on S550 Mustangs that were installed this way. In a nutshell, this installation methodology directly caused the studs to fail - in some cases before they ever even saw road use and not visible to the naked eye.

Look closely and note how the stud coating is often removed when installing studs this way. You are likely seeing galling, indicative of exceedingly high torque values. There are also likely microscopic fractures along the thread roots.

Not trying to rain on anyone's parade here. But I would pay very close attention to those studs.

 

[venom52]

Are the Tiger hoods that much thinner than these aluminum hoods? I was kind of surprised how thin the aluminum actually is. I'll have to get out the caliper and measure.

They really are quite thin.