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Discussion in 'Road Racing Forum' started by mattlqx, Mar 17, 2017.
Yep, I had the dealer swap cat-backs when I traded as part of the deal.
Does plugging the exhaust not affect performance?
Not all from what I could tell. The biggest hinderence on performance were the 140 degree asphalt temperatures which led to higher intake temps. I wouldn't want to go much higher but even during the hotter sessions, oil temps held into the 270s.
Did you check your diff temps? That seems to be the one that runs the hottest on my car.
Wow nice build and congrats on great result!! I installed my splitter/wing last weekend and OMG does it look badass!! So long for the sleeper look!!
Diff temps were good. I think the highest I saw it was 230. That's with heavier that stock weight oil, 75w140. Transmission around 200.
Thanks! Yeah, I'm pretty happy with the look. The spoiler doesn't photograph very well, but it sure looks great in person.
Some pics of the event...
"Got all of that one."
When I was putting the car on the trailer, I noticed a wonderfully grindy metal-on-metal sound when applying the brakes. The last session finished the job on one of the rear pads. I appear to have had some air that caliper as it's way gone compared to the other 3 pads, which are still just barely above the noise makers. It was the inside pad, so I didn't notice if it was low or not compared to the others before the event.
Oopsie. Check your pad thickness any time the wheels come off the car. Weird stuff happens sometimes.
Congrats Matt. You've put together a great car.
And thanks for the kind words regarding Caliperfexion. We're glad to be a part of your build.
dont want to highjack your thread... just a quick picture of your car's soulmate in magnetic!!
Madre de Dios
Super sweeeeet! I dig the NO STEP decals.
Awesome awesome awesome build!!! Could you post a couple pics of the eye-bolts where the sub straps connect? I'm still trying to figure that part out on mine.
I'm using the eye-bolts included with the Sparco harnesses. Make two holes in the front of the Planted mounting base and use those. Sparco's manual states proper mounting is anywhere from -20 to 20 degrees from the sub opening. This will vary if you're on sliders based on position. This particular base came from @cloud9 so he did the drilling on this one, but I replicated it pretty easily on the passenger side base.
For the lap belts, a hole on either side as close to the corner as reasonably possible. This is a narrow seat, but it still barely makes contact with the top eye-bolts when slid back. There's still a pretty full range of motion allowed though. The proper orientation of this bolt is 90 degrees from pictured, but it unfortunately blocks the seat from moving backwards that way.
What did you do to prevent an airbag light with the passenger seat removed?
Here is the eBay link for the "no step" stickers... I took the idea on the GT4 car. The ones from eBay are a bit big for my taste but for 4$ I wanted to give them a try. I might get some made in a smaller font in the future.
thanks for clarifying the setup for the substraps. My next big mod on the to-do list is a race seat. It will make it easier to move forward knowing how you managed your setup!
@PeteInCT from Track Day Solutions can make the stickers for you in the size you want. Click on his link to the right of this page. Order some TMO stickers while you're at it.
I don't. I'd like to find the RCM values to disable them but I've searched and haven't found anything. The light doesn't bother me, but it may affect the other airbags operation, I'm not sure. This isn't a big deal on the track but if you take the race seat on the road with the factory 3-pt it may be a concern.
If the RCM is reset without the sensors attached (like when you reconnect the battery), there will be a persistent air bag light. You can just clear the DTCs after hooking them back up to clear the light and all is well.
If you don't mind me asking, what do the caliper studs do, or what are they for?