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McLeod RXT Clutch Installation

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
438
Southeast
Hi Fat Boss:
Holy smokes! Looks like you went through a battle on the Cat stud nut removal, sorry to see that, but nice job. I was thinking "Release the Cutting Tourch"! LoL.

I noticed the new clutch is quite a bit smaller than the OEM unit. Is this the Twin Disc version? Also did you go with an aluminum Flywheel or steel? Was your clutch slipping? Sorry about all the questions. I'm thinking about doing this myself in the future because my OEM pressure plate is clunky when engaged.

Nice, real nice looking clutch assembly. Good luck and let us know how it feels on the street and then comparatively on the track.

Regards,
302 Hi Pro
 
Andy if you track the car you will need an after-market DS. I shredded the pinion boot on mine, and blew out the middle one by the carrier bearing on the GT at Chuckwalla last year. I have three friends that have also blown the boots on theirs both Bosses and GTs. One threw so much grease on his exhaust he thought he blew his motor going down the front straight at BIR because of the HUGE white cloud it created. You can get it replaced under warranty.......but you'll be back.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
I have the RST with the lightened steel flytwheel (mcleod says that one is the same weight as stock). The RST and RXT will NOT bolt up to a stock Boss flywheel. Found this out the hard way. It will bolt up to a GT (has smaller dowel pins).

All that being said the RST is a great clutch. very quite, very light pedal (no assist spring on my boss).
 
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Hey Guys. Thanks, it's the RST with lightened steel flywheel. Looks like it's about 5 lbs lighter than stock clutch and flywheel assembly. The stock clutch performed great until trying to shift at high RPMs. Anything above 6500 was tough to get into the next gear, and anything above 7000 was pretty much impossible.

Why do these cars chew up the boot? My friend's GT350 had 35ish thousand miles on it at over 600 to the rear wheels with a lot of track time, some with slicks, and his is fine. He took it out for his recent Tremec install so I might throw his on for now. We're going to try and finish up next weekend. Seems like maybe some weak boots out there?

http://www.lethalperformance.com/shop-now/vehicle-selector/ford-mustang-v8-gt/2011-2012-2013-2014-mustang-gt-5-0l/transmission/clutch-kits/mcleod/mcleod-2011-2012-2013-2014-mustang-5-0l-rst-twin-disc-clutch-kit-w-steel-flywheel.html
 
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Bought some new hardware for the install from the local dealer.

W714265S441
PACK OF 4
CAT PIPE TO HEADER FLANGE NUTS

W705443S900
PACK OF 4
SIDE PIPE TO X PIPE NUTS

W714012S439
PACK OF 4
BELLHOUSING TO BLOCK BOLTS
*One was a little abused, but expected since the trans has been out twice already.
*Two old ones will get their heads cut off (sounds brutal..), made into a bull nose, and used as guide pins for install. I take them out by hand or if sticky I usually cut a slot in the end for a flat head screwdriver and swap in the new bolts. Guide pins are nice.

I'm putting in a new throwout bearing. Is the bleed procedure to fill the reservoir and pump a few hundred times?
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,625
2,555
Arizona, USA
That "bleed procedure" has worked well for me in the past. If you can get that corner of the car elevated, even better. Even better still if you can pull a vacuum on the brake/clutch reservoir while doing it. But I've done it on two separate S197s just pumping until your leg gives out :)
 
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Clutch is in and seems to work great. The car was going in and out of limp mode on the way home. I installed the CJ pulse ring. I'm assuming that is the cause. Do I just tell the dealer I need to have the crank trigger re-learn done? Any more technical or correct name of the procedure?

Also installed my used set of QTP's. This was surely the best time to install them since the exhaust was off and the console was out. I used the WPT-444 pigtail to tap into the unused plug in the console. I drilled a hole in the little knock out panel in the console and mounted the switch there. It works great.
 
Fat Boss said:
Clutch is in and seems to work great. The car was going in and out of limp mode on the way home. I installed the CJ pulse ring. I'm assuming that is the cause. Do I just tell the dealer I need to have the crank trigger re-learn done? Any more technical or correct name of the procedure?

Also installed my used set of QTP's. This was surely the best time to install them since the exhaust was off and the console was out. I used the WPT-444 pigtail to tap into the unused plug in the console. I drilled a hole in the little knock out panel in the console and mounted the switch there. It works great.
Andy - I believe it's called the "Neutral profile relearn" procedure. Just did it on mine after reinstalling the engine wiring harness and all of the sensors. Hopefully that will solve your issue.
 
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Thanks Gary! I ended up throwing the GT350 hand me down driveshaft on as well. It should be the same, but I haven't checked the part number. At some point I will get another driveshaft, but for now I need to focus on getting it running right, putting on a new set of rubber, swapping in a new set of rotors and pads, and get the fluids changed before Vegas.

Oh and fly to Vegas with your wife, Gary.
 
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I got the relearn done this morning at Ford. No charge either which was nice. No CEL and no limp mode! I'm all set for the Team Shelby Dyno Day and BBQ tomorrow at Borelli Motorsports in San Jose. Should be a good time. 8)
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
Moderator
2,848
14
Connecticut
Fat Boss said:
I got the relearn done this morning at Ford. No charge either which was nice. No CEL and no limp mode! I'm all set for the Team Shelby Dyno Day and BBQ tomorrow at Borelli Motorsports in San Jose. Should be a good time. 8)

Not trying to jinx you, but just to set expectations - the relearn alone doesn't necessarily fix a CEL problem. The relearn sets the baseline engine management back to "Day 1". Over time the engine starts learning again and adjusts. We have seen instances here on BMO where the relearn solved the issue for a while... The problem is that the CEL issue has no one single source. Here are the sources I am aware of:

1) Engine harness wiring
2) Engine harness connectors
3) Camshaft sensors
4) Crankshaft sensor
5) Pulse Ring

There may be some that slipped my mind. For me specifically, replacing the wiring harness and getting a relearn only held off the issue for 2 or 3 track days. Then it came back worse than ever. From there I had the camshaft sensor replaced with the O-ring installed and another relearn. Since then I haven't seen a CEL. When I had my clutch and tranny replaced under warranty I had them put the performance pulse ring in for good measure, just in case...

-Pete
 
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Good info Pete. In my case I only had the CEL and limp mode after installing the Cobra Jet pulse ring last week with the clutch. This car hasn't had very many random misfire codes, and never has gone into limp mode otherwise.
 
384
0
Maui
I installed the Mcleod RXT clutch and lightened steel flyweel with a friend back in March this year. I read about doing the crank sensor relearn at the Ford dealer after installing it, but have not done it yet.. I have it almost broken in (500 miles) and have definitely done some spirited runs but haven't thrown any codes yet.. Just wondering if I should just take it to the dealer or perhaps I got lucky and don't need to.. any thoughts?
 
Jeff, I'm not sure but if you're not throwing any codes you're probably fine. I had mine installed at a dealer so they performed the relearn as part of their normal install.
 

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