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Methods to troubleshoot low oil pressure?

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steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,018
1,964
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
I am stock and taking the lazy route. Too far along to go back and take off the pan to check. I will hope for the best.

Doc you should be fine, but if you notice any odd oil pressure readings you know where to start looking. Do you have a true oil pressure gauge? The OEM on 11-14 except Laguna Seca versions are just a switch that pretends to be a gauge. Get a real auto meter oil pressure gauge and sensor to keep check on it while on track.


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492
387
DFW, TX
e61aae382681d28a04ea6930a3e4dbcb.jpg

Hadn’t had a chance to tear into the car yet but this is the sheet that came with the pump. Not sure how to interpret the clearances in regards to oil pressure production but looks nominal from my research so far.

Hoping for bad o-ring
I just watched their YouTube video that explains all that. Why I am up at 5 am watching this, I have no idea...


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captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
Update time:

@ArizonaBOSS came by and gave me a hand yesterday and the result is now adequate oil pressure, but raises more questions than answers:

After replacing a starter, we briefly test fired the motor after bypassing the oil cooling loop and the start had 20ish PSI on the one remaining oil pressure gauge (speedhut).

We then pulled the speedhut gauge and put a new AEM transducer-based gauge in place and it immediately showed 50psi cold, and throttle would hit 80psi immediately, settling to 35psi as the oil barely started to run. Thats ... certainly better than it was. no time to get a hot oil reading, and I wish I had taken a base reading with the loop in but the takeaways are such:

1) The sender for the speedhut gauge definitely read 25-30psi low, and matches my experience with it as of late on two motors (it would read low on the aluminator down straightaways as well).
2) There definitely existed some restriction in my oil system design for the oil cooling loop.

I did take apart all of the fittings and cleaned them all and checked the one way check valve operation but all looked fine. I'm scratching my head, but i think its safe to say I don't immediately have to open up the motor. I can run the next event and see how pressures are. I'm working on engineering the larger cooling loop with all new lines and fittings, along with replacing ALL the sensors and related wiring for both the dash and telemetry system.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,018
1,964
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
Chris, gauge senders need to have good grounds to perform accurately. Some gauges use the body of the sensor as the ground path and if sealants are non conductive (Teflon) and there isn't good metal to metal contact you can get some wacky readings. Please get a mechanical test gauge (they are like $20 from Amazon) and run a warm up cycle for all the pressures Cold Idle, Cold 2000 and cold 4000, the the same after warm up of coolant. I just was reading the shop manual for my 2018 and the minimum specs are 10-15 psi at idle and 35-40 psi at 3000 hot. As far as the cooling loop is it possible that the oil was short circuiting and looping most of the oil through the cooler with the Accusump backfeeding the oil galleries? I don't think so but draw out the exact path of the oil run and post it.
Steve
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,954
1,698
Phoenix, Az
I've procured a tester and will go through that cycle soon.

On the diagram see attached for the basic flow (not to scale).

The comprehensive parts list is:

Sensors: (all 1/8 NPT)
Speedhut - series resistive oil pressure sender (shown bad)
Speedhut - series resistive oil temo sender
Autosportlabs extended range temp sender
Autosportlabs 0-100psi pressure sender (transducer)
1/8npt to 1/4npt adapter for factory port (speedhut pressure sensor)
-10AN Female to Male adapter with 1/8

Oil lines:
Fragola -10AN line
Accusump 8' line a PTFE lined -10 (smaller diameter outer jacket but larger ID)
6 45* -10AN swivel hose ends
4 straight -10an swivel hose ends

Accusump:
3 quart Accusump unit
EPC pro-valve and housing
EPC pro-pressure switch and housing
1/2"NPT male-male connector
1/2" NPT to -10AN male adapter

Sandwich plate:
CXRacing sandwich plate
2 -10ORB to -10Male fittings (new o-rings)
main o-ring replaced

Oil cooler and adapters:
Setrab 925 cooler (now retired)
2 M22 to -10AN male adapters
-10 Summit racing brand one way check valve
-10 AN T fitting
-10 AN female union, swivel type
-10 Male to -10 Female adapter with 1/8 NPT port
-10 Male to -10 Female 45* adapter

oildiagram.png
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,018
1,964
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
I've procured a tester and will go through that cycle soon.

On the diagram see attached for the basic flow (not to scale).

The comprehensive parts list is:

Sensors: (all 1/8 NPT)
Speedhut - series resistive oil pressure sender (shown bad)
Speedhut - series resistive oil temo sender
Autosportlabs extended range temp sender
Autosportlabs 0-100psi pressure sender (transducer)
1/8npt to 1/4npt adapter for factory port (speedhut pressure sensor)
-10AN Female to Male adapter with 1/8

Oil lines:
Fragola -10AN line
Accusump 8' line a PTFE lined -10 (smaller diameter outer jacket but larger ID)
6 45* -10AN swivel hose ends
4 straight -10an swivel hose ends

Accusump:
3 quart Accusump unit
EPC pro-valve and housing
EPC pro-pressure switch and housing
1/2"NPT male-male connector
1/2" NPT to -10AN male adapter

Sandwich plate:
CXRacing sandwich plate
2 -10ORB to -10Male fittings (new o-rings)
main o-ring replaced

Oil cooler and adapters:
Setrab 925 cooler (now retired)
2 M22 to -10AN male adapters
-10 Summit racing brand one way check valve
-10 AN T fitting
-10 AN female union, swivel type
-10 Male to -10 Female adapter with 1/8 NPT port
-10 Male to -10 Female 45* adapter

View attachment 3785

Chris is check valve required for the Accusump?


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