Mid-Atlantic Boss: Building a Do-It-All Street/Track Car

[RacerDuck]

Re: New Mid-Atlantic Boss Owner

So I took my Boss to Performance Auto Sport here in Richmond for an impromptu dyno pull. The color printer was almost out of ink so the chart didn't plot very well (I'll post it if I can get a better copy). But here's the important information.



PAS is a performance shop that specializes in Saleen and late model mustangs. The man that built and maintains the multiple-championship winning NASA American Iron 2011 Mustang told me this is the most powerful unmodified Boss he's has on the dyno by a large margin. (I'm assuming open side pipes and Red Key counts as stock). Suffice to say, this was the high-point of my week.

Observations:
Run conditions: 66 degrees F, 29 in-Hg, 27% humidity, SAE: 0.99
Hit 400 whp at 6,500 rpm and held it till 7,500 rpm redline.
Torque reached 350 at 4,300 rpm and held above 350 till 5,500 rpm.
A little bit of detonation in the first pull. I may look at mixing in a quarter tank of 100 octane when I'm at the track as a preventative measure.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Nice numbers.

Your conditions were almost text book perfect. Upper 60's low humidity etc.

Makes me wonder what numbers mine would make.

 

[MountainGT]

Re: New Mid-Atlantic Boss Owner

Nice driving Nick!
I have to pick-up a few things from your video, and push a little.

Here's my video, any tips will be appreciated.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKmx5e0-Hbo&feature=youtu.be

It's a little hard to tell, but it looks like you need to adjust your driving position. It looks like you could get a little closer to the steering wheel so you aren't walking the steering wheel through your hands. Your hands should be staying on the steering wheel at about 9-O'Clock and 3-O'Clock almost all the time. The only time you should be moving the steering wheel between your hands is on REALLY tight corners (autocross or drifiting).

Like mentioned before, maybe I'm wrong, but it seems like you are shy of throttle application. Which, isn't really a bad thing. Better to learn the track and get a feel for your car then try to over-drive.

 

[further]

Re: New Mid-Atlantic Boss Owner

Good call on the brake ducts, and I'll look into those other tire options. The Rivals have been getting a lot of good press. I might wait till I get my trailer hitch installed before I go with full R-comps though. How are the NT01s relative to Toyo RA-1s on our cars?

I have run the stock tires, then Conti/Pirelli scrubs slicks, and now on a BFG rival square setup, 295 by 18 on 10" rims to be precise. I actually went back to street tires, to help progress my skills. It's clichee to say hold off on the R comps until you're ready, but it's true. They are fun though, and quite a bit lighter than the street tires. The Rivals are good though. A buddy of mine has a video of Skeen in a 5.0 with Rivals doing 2:12 on VIR Full.

 

[RacerDuck]

So this happened. After not being able to get the Boss out of my neighborhood for two days because of snow, I thought it might be a good idea to take it up to a buddy's cabin in the mountains. Track season needs to start soon or I'm going to get myself into trouble!




-Nick

Sent from the tiny computer in my pocket.

 

[RacerDuck]

First NASA autocross of the season! Virginia was graced with a sunny 60 degree day after two weeks of crippling snow and cold.











After 16k miles, two autocrosses, and one track weekend, these Pirellis are finally done. My times were just not competitive, even when I didn't spend the entire run sideways. I'll be installing my camber plates and pulling the trigger on those new wheels and tires before the next competitive event. I'm hoping for a night and day difference in front end grip and acceleration.


-Nick

Sent from the tiny computer in my pocket.

 

[steveespo]

Where are you there, Richmond? Glad you were able to get out there, 8" snow today in the NY Metro area.
Steve

 

[RacerDuck]

Steve, I'm in Richmond. Ideally located between Summit Point and VIR!


-Nick

Sent from the tiny computer in my pocket.

 

[F.D. Sako]

Looking good Nick!

Which camber plates did you settle with? I'm still trying to decide myself on a brand.

Did you have a tire in mind? Last I checked, Tirerack still had the 285/35 Hankook R-S3's on sale, but since you AutoX you probably know your size restrictions.

 

[RacerDuck]

I have a set of the MM caster camber plates waiting to go on. They seem to have the best reputation both here and from my local sources. The NASA-X 'A' class base tire size is a 295 width, so I was planning to go with that size squared up on a set of Team Dynamics 18s. Since the P-Zeros need to be replaced, I'm planning to stick with a street tire this year and maybe look into take-off R-comps next year. Nitto NT-05s ($248) and BFG Rivals ($290) are both available in 295/35-18. I'm leaning towards the Rivals.

 

[blackjack100]

That looks like VMP.

 

[RacerDuck]

That looks like VMP.

And so it is!

 

[RacerDuck]

Race Rubber Choices

I need a little advice here. I've reached out to the fine folks at www.jbracingtires.net and am considering the following options. The only mods at the moment will be camber plates and (4) 18x10 wheels. I'll primarily be tracking Summit Point Main and the new Jefferson Circuit expansion, and VIR.

Option #1: Conti Slicks; 275x35x18 all around. Full tread. ~$120/tire.

Option #2: Conti Slicks; 275x35x18 on the front, 305x650x18 on the rear. Full tread. ~$120/tire.

Option #3: Hoosier R6; 295x30x18 all around. 3/4 tread/ ~$90/tire.

From a pure performance standpoint, what are your opinions about the anticipated handling characteristics and longevity of these options?

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

R6 and Conti are supposedly the same compound, however the Contis I've used tend to cycle out before they wear through or cord.

Run staggered unless you are willing to run a smaller rear swaybar to offset the decreased rear grip balance that a square setup will have--but square is my preference.

 

[RacerDuck]

So I went for the cheap speed this time. (4) 3/4 tread Hoosier R6s, 295/30r18 and (4) 18x10 SVE Drifts. I'm also trying to get an '84 BMW 318i back on the road this month so there wasn't quite as much money to put into the Boss as I had wanted.

But I'll still be hitting the track this spring with 295 Hoo-Hoos and lots of negative camber! Next year I'll take another look at the Team Dynamics wheels and use the Drifts for a set of rains.

 

[RacerDuck]

The back-order on the SVE Drifts got pushed out till April 30th which would have had me missing the entire spring season. I canceled those today and placed my order for the TD wheels from Blowfish Racing.

Edit: And here they are!



-Nick

Sent from the tiny computer in my pocket.

 

[RacerDuck]

Sound tube is gone. Looking forward to hearing the exhaust and not piped in intake noise.



-Nick

Sent from the tiny computer in my pocket.

 

[RacerDuck]

More planning for suspension upgrades. So far I've got camber plates and four 295 width Hoosier take-offs. Still need to get it aligned.

The next item up for discussion is rear LCAs and brackets. I'm leaning towards the Whiteline parts. I've used their suspension components on my old Subaru and was happy with the quality and performance. Also considering the CorteX Street LCAs and brackets. But is it worth an extra $160 for spherical bearings at one end?


-Nick

Sent from the tiny computer in my pocket.

 

[RacerDuck]

Installed a set of Whiteline LCAs and relocation brackets yesterday. Seems to have tamed my axle hop issues, but I have only been driving on it for a day.



I'm still running stock ride height and relatively soft shock settings. Body roll seems to have a more pronounced effect on the feel of the rear end when going around bumpy corners now. I'll try tightening down the shocks and see what that does to reduce movement. Long term I think lowering the car to lessen the LCA angle may help.


-Nick

Sent from the tiny computer in my pocket.

 

[cloud9]

Installed a set of Whiteline LCAs and relocation brackets yesterday. Seems to have tamed my axle hop issues, but I have only been driving on it for a day.



I'm still running stock ride height and relatively soft shock settings. Body roll seems to have a more pronounced effect on the feel of the rear end when going around bumpy corners now. I'll try tightening down the shocks and see what that does to reduce movement. Long term I think lowering the car to lessen the LCA angle may help.


-Nick

Sent from the tiny computer in my pocket.

Yea I'm thinking your LCA angle would be pretty severe with relo brackets (mounted in the lower portion) and stock springs. I just dropped mine to the lower hole on the FRPP relo brackets with FRPP P springs and it helped because I had too little angle before. I'm at 5* now versus 1.8* when I was in the upper hole of the relo bracket. You might be in the 10* range?