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Mishimoto Oil cooler

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For those interested, I did my first track event this weekend at Lime Rock with the car.

Oil temp was a max of 225, water was a max of 214. ~65*F temp and high humidity, running the car hard.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
apex32 said:
For those interested, I did my first track event this weekend at Lime Rock with the car.

Oil temp was a max of 225, water was a max of 214. ~65*F temp and high humidity, running the car hard.

All data points are great info. Thanks for posting and please update as temps get warmer.
 
apex32 said:
For those interested, I did my first track event this weekend at Lime Rock with the car.

Oil temp was a max of 225, water was a max of 214. ~65*F temp and high humidity, running the car hard.

So 225 was the temp coming out of the cooler, correct? I wonder how hot the temp of the oil was going in. Would be interesting to know how much the 948 cools your oil. And did you remove the original Boss oil cooler?
 
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06mach1 said:
So 225 was the temp coming out of the cooler, correct? I wonder how hot the temp of the oil was going in. Would be interesting to know how much the 948 cools your oil. And did you remove the original Boss oil cooler?

Correct, that is temp coming back from the cooler. I would love to know that information also.. hmm. I never had a boss cooler, so just running the 948 on its own. I am also curious to get some data at higher ambient temp.

Dan
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
There's some data for the Boss running a 948 stand-alone. Not sure it's enough since Bosses don't have piston cooling jets.

JMO, but I also view the piston squirters as a source for oil 'pre-heating'. Between those and the Boss cooler/oil pre-heater, my car seems to warm up pretty quickly even in 50º ambient.
 
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Grant 302 said:
There's some data for the Boss running a 948 stand-alone. Not sure it's enough since Bosses don't have piston cooling jets.

JMO, but I also view the piston squirters as a source for oil 'pre-heating'. Between those and the Boss cooler/oil pre-heater, my car seems to warm up pretty quickly even in 50º ambient.

I have a 2014 long block in my 2011, so I will be in the same boat. So far it seems just fine, I will update as ambient temps rise. These were 30min sessions, though.
 
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I ran at Pocono this past weekend with the mishimoto. The temps were pretty cool for July in the 70s and little humidity. The Pocono double infield course is a lot of high RPMs and high speeds. Last time when it was also pretty cool when the car was at normal operating temperature if I got some clear space running hard the oil temp would jump into the yellow on the stock guage and even try to get into the red. With the mishimoto I was able to run the entire day without having to let up BUT I was running on the border of green and yellow. So if was hot out I'm sure I would have had issues. Hind sight I should have gone with the setrab!!! I don't think I should mess around and am thinking of going with the 72 row that the ford racing package uses.

On a side note I'm running a GT and my friend with a boss and the mishimoto the same day ran cooler than I did so I guess the stock oil cooler and larger radiator do make a notable difference.


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drano38

Wayne
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A Setrab 172 would make a nice cooler. Keeps all of it in the upper grill opening for for max heat transfer. Several guys use it.
Also add a billet grill if you haven't already. Need air flow across the cooler for it to work. So install something that is more open than stock.
I added a Saleen grill to my '12, at that brought CHT down about 15 degrees (that was before the oil cooler).
 
jpt3 said:
I ran at Pocono this past weekend with the mishimoto. The temps were pretty cool for July in the 70s and little humidity. The Pocono double infield course is a lot of high RPMs and high speeds. Last time when it was also pretty cool when the car was at normal operating temperature if I got some clear space running hard the oil temp would jump into the yellow on the stock guage and even try to get into the red. With the mishimoto I was able to run the entire day without having to let up BUT I was running on the border of green and yellow. So if was hot out I'm sure I would have had issues. Hind sight I should have gone with the setrab!!! I don't think I should mess around and am thinking of going with the 72 row that the ford racing package uses.

On a side note I'm running a GT and my friend with a boss and the mishimoto the same day ran cooler than I did so I guess the stock oil cooler and larger radiator do make a notable difference.


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If you are interested. I have a complete setrab 934 setup include hoses, 180 thermostat, and canton adapter as the ford racing kit. I plan to offer sell in the next few days. The kit has approx five track days on it. Total cost of parts was right at $980. I plan to list for $500 plus shipping. Trading in my Boss tomorrow so I no longer need.
 
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that is a gift for 500 bucks plus shipping. awesome mod for a Boss 302, plus great protection for a $11,000 motor. now if i can only find a ford racing 84.5 TB that somebody is selling on the cheap . lol
 
steeda5 said:
that is a gift for 500 bucks plus shipping. awesome mod for a Boss 302, plus great protection for a $11,000 motor. now if i can only find a ford racing 84.5 TB that somebody is selling on the cheap . lol

Just finished removal. I'll post pics and list in the for sale section tomorrow afternoon. If you want first dibs let me know and I'll send you pics in the am. 8am central time.

Parts include
Setrab 934 Cooler
Setrab port adapters
Improved racing inline Thermostat 180 degree
Canton sandwich plate (same as FRPP kit)
4 straight hose fittings
4 45 degree hose fittings
Custom mounting bracket
Aeroquip Startlite Racing Hose
 
HackBoss302 said:
If you are interested. I have a complete setrab 934 setup include hoses, 180 thermostat, and canton adapter as the ford racing kit. I plan to offer sell in the next few days. The kit has approx five track days on it. Total cost of parts was right at $980. I plan to list for $500 plus shipping. Trading in my Boss tomorrow so I no longer need.
What are you trading your Boss in on?
 
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HackBoss302 said:
Just finished removal. I'll post pics and list in the for sale section tomorrow afternoon. If you want first dibs let me know and I'll send you pics in the am. 8am central time.

Parts include
Setrab 934 Cooler
Setrab port adapters
Improved racing inline Thermostat 180 degree
Canton sandwich plate (same as FRPP kit)
4 straight hose fittings
4 45 degree hose fittings
Custom mounting bracket
Aeroquip Startlite Racing Hose

Hack boss

That is a very kind offer!!! Since I already have the lines and everything mounted I'm just going to go with a new cooler. If I was aware of your offer prior to purchasing the mishimoto I would have been all over it!!!!


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drano38 said:
A Setrab 172 would make a nice cooler. Keeps all of it in the upper grill opening for for max heat transfer. Several guys use it.
Also add a billet grill if you haven't already. Need air flow across the cooler for it to work. So install something that is more open than stock.
I added a Saleen grill to my '12, at that brought CHT down about 15 degrees (that was before the oil cooler).

I have a California special so my lower grill is pretty open. I just need to figure out how to mount the cooler. Are you aware if anyone makes a bracket or does it need fabricated?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
jpt3 said:
Hack boss

That is a very kind offer!!! Since I already have the lines and everything mounted I'm just going to go with a new cooler. If I was aware of your offer prior to purchasing the mishimoto I would have been all over it!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Understand, I will list it in the for sale section sometime this week. Busy playing with the new truck. New toys are so much fun.
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
jpt3 said:
I have a California special so my lower grill is pretty open. I just need to figure out how to mount the cooler. Are you aware if anyone makes a bracket or does it need fabricated?
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If you get a Setrab 6 or 9 series cooler, member 06mach1 makes brackets that will mount it in the upper grill (which is where most people mount the coolers). If you choose a Setrab 172, there are most likely pics of a few mounting solutions in the How To section, DIY Oil Cooler Install thread.
 
As we offer an oil cooler kit for the Mustang (based on the Setrab 172), Mishimoto can be considered a competitor so you can consider our remarks accordingly.

I sincerely believe that the Mishimoto guys are a bunch of Bozos and they are going to end up blowing up somebody's car. They are the farthest thing from engineers that I have ever witnessed - and their design and testing leaves A LOT to be desired. Let me cite some specific examples;

1. First, just so everyone is clear, they are principally an importer of cheap Chinese parts although they masquerade around using a Japanese name.

2. In their design of an oil cooler kit for the ecoBoost Mustang, the testing was comparing the OEM oil-to-water cooler to their oil-to-air cooler. The totality of their testing was steady-state driving - NO TRACK or hot weather testing. Further, the OEM cooler (as it is an oil-to-water cooler) runs nominally at ~ coolant temps or about 200F. They compared this to their oil-to-air cooler in a similar, cool-weather, no-stress test. Their cooler ran the oil at about 160F. Their MORONIC conclusion was that their oil cooler DEMONSTRATED a clear"win" over OEM and a 40F temperature difference. This is about the most stupid, non-scientific conclusion that you could possibly say and it says NOTHING about the BTU-capacity of their cooler... and in my educated opinion their cooler probably has less BTU-capacity than the OEM unit that they replace. IDIOTS!

3. We were made aware of their Mustang EcoBoost cooler because they cited that heat exchanger as the "proven" design that they would use for the Focus RS solution. In their cooler thread on the RS forum, they cite a pressure drop across the cooler of 7 PSI. They have NO CLUE how bad that figure is. ANY reasonable engineer would quickly discard that design and IMMEDIATELY start looking at a different core. But these guys are CLOWNS and they post it and they are SO NAIVE, they don't even know what's bad and what is not. True story: A Boss 302 LS owner with our (Setrab 172 based) cooler developed an oil consumption problem that was traced to one cylinder head. As the owner took the car in under warranty, they were obliged to tell Ford about the presence of the oil cooler kit to which Ford wanted to know the heat exchanger being used and specifically the pressure drop specifications. The Setrab 172 has a 0.8psi drop and Ford was happy. Imagine that same customer has a Mishimoto cooler... and openly "brags" about a 7psi pressure drop??? I could almost guarantee that the warranty would be denied. 7 psi is STUPID high. (Note: I don't know what heat exchanger they are using on the Boss.... but YOU should know and you should compare it to known-good cores from Setrab.)

4. In their RS kit, they pull another great engineering breakthrough from their butt. Go lift the hood of any modern car and notice that the OEMs go through great pains to insure that the engine's air intake is NOT in the path of the air going through the various heat exchangers. There are MANY reasons that ALL OEMs do this..... but allegedly Mishimoto knows better. In their RS kit, they combine these airflows and then explicitly reference it as a benefit. These guys are just absurdly crazy. It's like having a bunch of 12 year olds with absolutely NO CONCEPT of engineering and just cobbling together Chinese-made, no-spec parts.

I would STRONGLY advocate that you stay far, far away from their products unless you are feeling very lucky.
 
Setrab 934 and mishimoto thermostatic plate mmop-sptrm22 here. Living in New England oil takes a good amount of time to come up to temp. Up here the factory oil cooler aids in faster oil warm up times. I buy my Setrab coolers from Bat Motorsports, they are way cheaper than Pegasus. Having a 13 you might want to consider the Watson racing radiator box. Also grills,(Roush or equivalent.), and if your not a TP a boss radiator at the least or the boss 302s aluminum m-8005-mgt and a reische 170 thermo. You can also upgrade the fan m-8c607-msvt. If you change the thermo you should adjust the fan relay temp settings about 10 degrees lower than factory. It was set at 217-218 from the factory on my Laguna. It's now 205-207 on and 195 off. If your seeing 230-240 at your coolant temp gauge sensor you can rest assured that with a water based coolant your having some steaming at the water jackets which creates hot spots at the cyl walls and linings. This is evidenced by lack of pressurization in a cooling systems that is equipped with Non water based coolant. I don't suggest the mishimoto cooler core either. A large pressure drop indicates non capillarized core tubing which is not ideal for positive displacement oiling systems.
 
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Great info guys. I ended up installing a setrab 948. The thing is a monster. I ran at Watkins glen the other week. Granted it was pretty cold especially in the mornings but the oil coming back from the cooler never went above 220 and that was at the highest. In the am sessions it didn't even get to 200.

What do you guys feel an ideal operating oil temperature is?

Jake


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