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MM Caster/Camber Plates: To those that have installed

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
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I had the MM Caster/Camber plates installed today and have some questions to any of you guys that have installed them. Cavet is that I’ve not hogged the holes for the camber bolts at all. For my install, I’ve been told that the most camber they were able to get (and keep both sides equal) was -1.7 degrees. My assumption was that I should be able to get at least -2.4 degrees. My questions are:

  • How much negative camber were you able to dial in (assuming no hogging of holes)?
  • What Caster setting did you use? I am unsure of the stock recommended; please indicate that also if you know it.
  • What Toe setting did you use? I am unsure of the stock recommended; please indicate that also if you know it.

Also, if -1.7 degrees is all that I will be able to get do you have any opinions on how much benefit I’ll get at of that setting vs. stock (which I am not sure of).

Thanks in advance !
 
In for updates as I'll be installing these soon. I though most were getting at least -2.0?
 

drano38

Wayne
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Pete,
I have -2.4, and one is almost against the hole (not hogged out).
Caster is at home in the file cabinet.
I had an alignment done with the install, and toe is 0.
I'd agree, most people are able to get 2.0+ w/out hogging out the holes.
 
Just finished installing mine last night, I am curious what people are getting too, the instructions indicate that you can get 1.6 degrees of camber adjustment via the plates. In the stock specs call for -0.95deg +/-0.75deg, I would think that the MM plates would be 50/50 +/- so that works out to -0.95 -0.8 or -1.75. Close to what shop is telling you, but sounds like they are no taking advantage of the +/- built into stock that they should be able to ring some more out from.

Caster spec 7.0 degr +/-0.75deg, also for the LS guys stock camber is -1.05
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
PeteInCT said:
Wayne - do you know if Toe = 0 is the stock setting ? Thanks.

Pete,
Got my alignment printout. I'm guessing the "before" specs are after the plates were installed but "before" they adjusted it.
Camber Before: -2.5/-2.9 After: -2.5/-2.5 "Specified Range" -1.7 to -.2 degrees (obviously for a street alignment)
Toe Before: -.08/+.07 After: +.02/-.01 "Specified Range" 0.0 to 0.20 degrees, so negative is bad.
Caster Before: 5.7/5.6 After: 5.7/5.7 "Specified Range" 6.3-7.8 degrees (don't know why they left it out of range)

Gary and I easily got -2+, so its odd yours maxed out at -1.7. Are your top strut bolts up against the inside edge of the holes--or very close?
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
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Connecticut
drano38 said:
PeteInCT said:
Wayne - do you know if Toe = 0 is the stock setting ? Thanks.

Pete,
Got my alignment printout. I'm guessing the "before" specs are after the plates were installed but "before" they adjusted it.
Camber Before: -2.5/-2.9 After: -2.5/-2.5 "Specified Range" -1.7 to -.2 degrees (obviously for a street alignment)
Toe Before: -.08/+.07 After: +.02/-.01 "Specified Range" 0.0 to 0.20 degrees, so negative is bad.
Caster Before: 5.7/5.6 After: 5.7/5.7 "Specified Range" 6.3-7.8 degrees (don't know why they left it out of range)

Gary and I easily got -2+, so its odd yours maxed out at -1.7. Are your top strut bolts up against the inside edge of the holes--or very close?

Wayne - Thanks much for the info, this will help a lot. I had the LS dropped off at my house and I haven't seen the alignment spec printout (or the bill ;D ) for the work yet. The plates in my drivers side tower are very close to the inside but my passenger side is much closer to the middle (but still to the inside of it). Given the disparity I'm going to guess that the mechanic left the stock camber bolt adjustments alone, hence the difference in the plate locations and the fact that the most he could dial in is -1.7.

I took it out on some country roads tonight and she feels good, tracks into turns better for sure, although I couldn't get it up to anywhere near track speeds. I'll get the printout tomorrow hopefully, what I may do it take it to a local pro shop (Moroso Performance) and have them do the front end setup or at least double check what's there now. All in all even if this is as good as it gets I can tell it was worth it. Stay Tuned !
 
I started out with -1.8 camber, 0 toe and factory caster. Then we went to -2.2 with -.2 toe and factory caster, no modification to the shock towers needed. I still have some room for more camber but not much maybe -2.4. The negative toe helps with turn in as far as I have been told and worked very well with the street tires but I did get some inside front tires wear with the slicks. That may have to do with running the banking, I plan to ask some questions this week from a friend who knows.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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Completed the install this morning. 4 hours total time. A couple observations, you don't have to remove cooling hoses to get the strut bolts out and do mark the center of your strut shaft on the top of the tower in both left to right and front to back direction. Gives you a baseline to adjust to when you put the struts back in and tighten the plates. I plan on having the alignment checked and making different color marks for stock settings, 1 degree, 1.5 deg, 2.0 deg and max negative camber. Will simplify adjustments at the track and on the street.
Steve
 
I was able to gain 2.2 on each side with 7.0 caster and set at zero toe. There was more to be had. Every adjustment made affected the other sides adjustment so it def took some time to get it right. Also, I am 225 # so I sat in the drivers seat the whole time to have it alligned with my weight in the seat.
 

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