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Moar Power

xXANCHORMONXx

TMO Intermediate
54
36
SF, CA
HPDE, Time Trial peeps chime in!

Before the GT350 I was a turbo guy and dealt with tuning, e85,boost hoses popping off, heat soak etc etc.

Now that this car is 95% driven at the track I need to up it. I’m about neck and neck with 2018+ GTs especially with the 10 speeds on the main straights and can’t hang with ZL1s with good drivers.

I’ve had ARH headers sitting in a box for almost two years and have been waiting on cortex for a new intake manifold which seems like a pipe dream.

I have two plans, one is to stay N/A, get a subframe to lower the motor along with mounts (steeda is in the works), pmas intake or similar, headers, cj intake and tune on 100 octane and be done with it. 530-550 whp would be my goal. I like this plan since I don’t want to open up the motor. With tuning it’s going to be around 6k all said and done.

Option 2 is to go the expensive route with a whipple or procharger, fluidyne rad, opg and more than likely a larger oil cooler. All said and done would be around 10k. I’d guess 600-700 whp would be pretty easy to attain. The question is, which type of super charger is better for track use and keeping temps low.

Any insight is welcome!
 
Last edited:

JDee

Ancient Racer
859
729
halfway between Mosport and Shannonville
W2W Racing
20+ Years
I would stay away from Steeda motor mounts. I and many others have had bad experience with them, they may be OK on the street or strip but on a road course they will not take the heat even with just a stock GT engine, even using the black inserts they will fail. I've gone to BMR, so far so good but it's early days. Any supercharger is going to add a ton of heat.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
4,585
2,973
Blair, Nebraska
W2W Racing
20+ Years
You will be in a crazy class with a SC, and likely be working on heat soak even with a bunch of cooling mods. The car is plenty quick , so work on tires, brakes , weight , headers ,etc. and you will find it works super well? In fact , the info on TT2 is right , so headers will add more power also and you really need to stay on track with the other mods ( tires , brake pads , camber plates , etc. ) and the car will be competitive!
 

302BOB

Epic Contributor
Any supercharger is going to add a ton of heat.
Very true!!"Hot fun in the summer tyme"Very little help with this post, but I'm still on a learning curve......stayed back twice.......it might be more than that.........my math skills aren't kicking in at the moment.....bottom line..more power costs money...one way or the other!
 

xXANCHORMONXx

TMO Intermediate
54
36
SF, CA
I would stay away from Steeda motor mounts. I and many others have had bad experience with them, they may be OK on the street or strip but on a road course they will not take the heat even with just a stock GT engine, even using the black inserts they will fail. I've gone to BMR, so far so good but it's early days. Any supercharger is going to add a ton of heat.
Good to know, I was planning on using BMR mounts with the Steeda K member.
 

xXANCHORMONXx

TMO Intermediate
54
36
SF, CA
You will be in a crazy class with a SC, and likely be working on heat soak even with a bunch of cooling mods. The car is plenty quick , so work on tires, brakes , weight , headers ,etc. and you will find it works super well? In fact , the info on TT2 is right , so headers will add more power also and you really need to stay on track with the other mods ( tires , brake pads , camber plates , etc. ) and the car will be competitive!
Here’s what I have at the moment, the car handles pretty well for the moment, the AP brakes are superb, before power I plan on doing some aero bits.
I know cooking will be a challenge for sure, I’m sure the GT500 has a hefty cooling package to keep it all together.

BMR Sway Bars
BMR Cradle Lockout
BMR rear cradle support brace
BMR LCA bearings
BMR Toe Links
BMR Vertical Links
BMR End Links
BMR Rear Shock mounts
Ford Racing Toe Bearing
BMR Springs
DSC Module
Steeda Adjustable Camber Arms
JM camber plates
JM front control arm bearing
SPL camber bolts
MGW shifter
AP BBK Kit
Ferodo DSUNO pads
Speigler SS brake lines
Torque RT700
Forgeline GS1R 19x11 squee
Pirelli scrubs
Resonator delete
Zl1 tow hooks
Amsoil air intake filter
Ford racing catch cans
Qa1 driveshaft
Custom Alignment
R Splitter
ZL1 add ons gurney flap
Recaro ASM Seats
Schroth Harnesses
Watson Roll Bar

Very true!!"Hot fun in the summer tyme"Very little help with this post, but I'm still on a learning curve......stayed back twice.......it might be more than that.........my math skills aren't kicking in at the moment.....bottom line..more power costs money...one way or the other!
Absolutely, one of my thoughts is, for reliability and longevity is the car better off N/A and tuned up with all of the bolt ons at say 550. Or would a supercharged car making 650 on low boost be better.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,454
2,200
Arizona, USA
Get the FTBR rear camber arms instead of the Steeda ones.

Supercharger will add power but also a good amount of front end weight.

Be careful with solid motor mounts as the Voodoo is already enough of a vibration nightmare as-is. If you hadn't said "don't want to open the motor" I was going to suggest converting to Cross-Plane Crank for longevity.

Headers will give you a nice bump in power.
 

xXANCHORMONXx

TMO Intermediate
54
36
SF, CA
Get the FTBR rear camber arms instead of the Steeda ones.

Supercharger will add power but also a good amount of front end weight.

Be careful with solid motor mounts as the Voodoo is already enough of a vibration nightmare as-is. If you hadn't said "don't want to open the motor" I was going to suggest converting to Cross-Plane Crank for longevity.

Headers will give you a nice bump in power.
Ant reason why on the camber arms?

I found they work fine and give me all the camber I need, I initially had issues with the jam nuts loosening. With crows foot adapters and torquing it to hell they’ve been solid.

My car just turned over to 8k miles, 6k of that track use. So far the oil analysis has come back healthy.

Looking forward to headers!
 

xXANCHORMONXx

TMO Intermediate
54
36
SF, CA
If you aren't running NASA or just doing HPDEs the Pirellis are great -- most of us who run them in other events run even quicker than we do on R7s. Still would stick with Naturally Aspirated as it seems most who run Superchargers have issues with heat.
That’s what I’ve experienced and is why I don’t buy R7s anymore. I can get 6-8 solid 20 minute sessions on the pirellis before the cycle out.

And that’s what’s been hard to find, most guys with 5.0s that are built up for the track go all motor.

I know the zl1 does well cooling wise at the track but it had 15+ coolers.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,454
2,200
Arizona, USA
The Steeda arms have some janky 4-machine-screw setup holding one end of the arm on vs. FTBR just solid metal. If you already installed the Steeda probably a moot point but I am not a fan of those.
 

blacksheep-1

TMO Addict
2,470
1,972
FWIW, not too many people in SCCA who are going fast run R7s, they are all A7s, but you have to watch your temps and pressures. The big diff between Pirellis and Hossiers is that the Pirellis will drop off precipitously, where the Hoosiers will slowly go away.. Dropping 2 seconds a lap on Pirellis is not that uncommon
 

xXANCHORMONXx

TMO Intermediate
54
36
SF, CA
The Steeda arms have some janky 4-machine-screw setup holding one end of the arm on vs. FTBR just solid metal. If you already installed the Steeda probably a moot point but I am not a fan of those.
It is janky, at the time it was all that was out. I actually made a post on m6g about it. I pulled out the hex screws to find they were maybe a 1/2 long. I tapped the holes and put longer 1.5 inch screws in.

Ftbr has a nice unit for sure
 

xXANCHORMONXx

TMO Intermediate
54
36
SF, CA
FWIW, not too many people in SCCA who are going fast run R7s, they are all A7s, but you have to watch your temps and pressures. The big diff between Pirellis and Hossiers is that the Pirellis will drop off precipitously, where the Hoosiers will slowly go away.. Dropping 2 seconds a lap on Pirellis is not that uncommon
That’s 100% true, when they are done, they are done done.
 

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