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Moog rear wheel bearings + ARP lug studs = small problem

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16
18
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Indiana
Wanted to post here so this doesn't catch anyone else off guard like it did me yesterday.

Replacing both rear wheel bearings on my "16 GT. I have ARP lug studs all around on the car. The knurl diameter of the ARP studs DOES NOT FIT the Moog wheel bearings. The knurl diameter on the ARP studs is larger than the knurl diameter of the Moog studs.

You have to cut the threads off the Moog wheel studs, then drive them out because the head of the stud won't clear the hub casting with the stud intact. Then once you get the studs out you have to drill the Moog flange out to accept the larger knurl diameter of the ARP lug studs. The ARP knurl diameter is .625", the Moog lug stud knurl diameter is .560" and the drill size I used was 29/64" (.609"). Then I chamfered the back of the flange to ensure the studs would seat squarely, greased them and pressed them in with my hydraulic press. They went on the car and everything was perfectly centered and the studs torqued up rock solid.

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141
153
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Arizona
You are more brave than I. I ran into this a couple years ago and just returned them to Rock Auto saying they aren't really OEM replacements if they use different studs. I didn't want to take the chance drilling them out off center and cause issues with the studs later.
 
16
18
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Indiana
I didn't want to take the chance drilling them out off center and cause issues with the studs later.
That was my #1 fear. I'm running thin spacers with stock PP wheels, so everything is still hub centric which helped, but you still can't have the lug studs way off center, they won't torque up square. The drill bit I used had a generous lead-in, and I did NOT clamp the hub assemblies in the vise on the mill. I slowed the spindle way down, gently let the bit self-center on each hole and it worked perfectly. I slid the hub in the wheel and the studs were perfectly in the center of each hole, and when I torqued them up, there was no spongy feeling or anything indicating they weren't pressed in all the way or that they were pulling off center as the lug nut seated.

I never planned to do this, and I had already cut the lug studs off the one Moog hub so I was kind of committed at that point. If they need replaced again I'll likely just get Motorcraft bearings. They are much cheaper, but the rumor over on Mustang6G is that the Moog bearings last much longer than the factory ones so I bought them not knowing the knurl diameter would be different.
 
16
12
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Ontario, Canada
I've recently had Moog (or equivalent premium aftermarket) parts fail or last far less than I was expecting. Wheel bearing, front sway bar end links, "rebuilt" calipers (not a Moog thing), and a handful of others.

I've sworn off - almost entirely - any aftermarket part from Napa or the like. At times it can be laughable, like a rear lower control arm for an MKV Jetta is like 10x the price of the medium grade aftermarket, but I just don't trust the other stuff.
 

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