The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

More old-school 40's pics

Some more pics of my big-ass sidewalls. Love it. Not for everyone, I know. lol

295/40/18's squared on 18x10's. This configuration probably only works on the 302r wheels because of the spacing metrics.

retro1.jpg

retro3.jpg

retro2.jpg
 
DGRacing said:
Some more pics of my big-ass sidewalls. Love it. Not for everyone, I know. lol

295/40/18's squared on 18x10's. This configuration probably only works on the 302r wheels because of the spacing metrics.

Are you running any spacers? Are you lowered any? Camber? I have a set of 295/40/18 A6 I am looking to mount on my GT lowered 1" with steeds sport springs. Ive seen some people say it works, others say a spacer is needed up front, Vorshlag said they rubbed the fender. Wheels are on back order right now so haven't been able to mount then and see if they work out. Thanks for any info!
 

jneary

Performance Fords
323
0
Norcal
OK, first of all, its funny to say "Old School" is 18 inches of rim! I can remember when 15 inch rims were "LOW Profile"!!!

I actually like that look better than the 19" rims that come stock and it seems like either 18 or 20 is a way more common tire size. I have a feeling the 19" tire will go the way of the 16.5" tires went on pickup trucks back in the 70's...

So, when you made the switch, how did it change the character of the car? Was it more squishy? Did the handling change appreciably? I am looking to go to the Shelby Magnum look likes:

shelbywheels.jpg


However, these only come in 20 or 18. I really don't want to go to 20 as I think they'll be too harsh and way more expensive on tires. Also, I daily drive it so 20's will get killed on the streets around California since the roads are so crappy these days.

Your thoughts appreciated...

John
 
mtnbikefuel80 said:
Are you running any spacers? Are you lowered any? Camber? I have a set of 295/40/18 A6 I am looking to mount on my GT lowered 1" with steeds sport springs. Ive seen some people say it works, others say a spacer is needed up front, Vorshlag said they rubbed the fender. Wheels are on back order right now so haven't been able to mount then and see if they work out. Thanks for any info!

No spacers. You would need special accommodations to safely use spacers for road racing. Those are 295/40/18 A6's on there now.
My car is pretty low with the eibach sportline springs. In my "around town" tests, full arc turning, speed braking, etc. I've not experienced any rubbing, but my front springs and dampers are pretty tight and would have to be to run this configuration.

My camber is reduced to -1.5. I don't need extra camber for grip because of the huge slick up front.

I will need to tweak my suspension with this arrangement after a couple track days to find the best settings.
 
Looking nice Darren.

You may need the extra camber to get even wear on the fronts. keep an eye on the outer surfaces after each session.
When's the next track day you have in mind?
I was checking out TrackDaze's May 18-19th event at Shenandoah.
 
I'll take some pics of the hood pins. I actually just fabricated support cables for them out of my unused head release cable.lol

@sako. I'll be at summit main April 27/28 with NASA, you should come to that.

For the hood pins (UPR billet kit), basically it goes like this:

1. Remove radiator cover
2. Remove radiator support brackets and replace with hood pin brackets
3. Screw hood pin shaft into radiator support bracket and put some colored brake lube on the tips.
4. Lower hood and observe where the color lube is transferred to the hood.
5. Drill an eye/starter hole through the hood at that location
6. Using a conical bit, enlarge the hole on the underneath hood layer allowing the pin shaft to go through to the upper hood surface from underneath.
7. Using the conical bit, widen the top hood hole and observe the alignment with the pin shaft below. Center and widen.
8. With the pin shaft all the way through the hood, slide the pin base over the pin shaft and make the drill holes for that. Drill and screw into hood.
9. You're done!
 
Here's an install guide for the UPR hood pins I have.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/installing-upr-billet-hood-pins-s197-mustang.858650/

And here are some pics of the safety lines I made from scratch (using my hood latch release cable I yanked out). I need to repaint the hood pin mounts though.
More old-school muscle car goodness...

hoodpin1.jpg

hoodpin2.jpg

hoodpin3.jpg
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
3,811
1,391
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
DGRacing said:
Here's an install guide for the UPR hood pins I have.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/installing-upr-billet-hood-pins-s197-mustang.858650/

And here are some pics of the safety lines I made from scratch (using my hood latch release cable I yanked out). I need to repaint the hood pin mounts though.
More old-school muscle car goodness...

hoodpin1.jpg

hoodpin2.jpg

hoodpin3.jpg

Darren
Nice fabrication work but the raw stainless cable is going to scratch the hood paint in the wind. See if you can find some clear nylon tubing to slip over the cables or cut them short and feed them down through the base plate screw hole and put a ferrule on it under the hood. That is current NASCAR style.
Steve
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Buy TMO Apparel

Buy TMO Apparel
Top