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Moroso Pan and FP350S Oil Pan Info (Supplemental)

boardkat

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Part # 20572 for S197/S550 Coyote motor

Baffled, trap door 9qt aluminum oil pan w/ (2) 1/2” NPT ports for sensors/oil drain back and (1) 20mm oil level sensor port.

New, never used. Went a different route and installed a FP350S oil pan instead.

Paid $525, selling for $450 shipped anywhere in the lower 48.

79676D74-953C-4C25-998D-BDC1444AB0EA.jpeg

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D58B1768-444D-46B7-B688-9B93451D2924.jpeg

1C914FC5-718C-4F08-8768-26D685FD8680.jpeg
 

boardkat

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It’s HUGE and makes my oil changes very expensive!! :)

... but I’ve never seen cooler temps on the track, and have logged no substantial changes in oil pressure, so it’s meeting my expectations. Others have had issues with cracked welds but no problems with mine so far.
 

cholmes1

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I have not heard about the cracked welds. What conditions are causing this? I ask because I will be installing mine soon and still have time to prep if needed.

Thanks
 

Ron McCall

Pantera1889
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The baffles were just tacked in and promptly broke.
The pickup tubes are also know to fracture at the bend.
I will work the pan over and also make a support bracket on the pickup tube to strengthen that up as well.

View attachment 14668

View attachment 14669
Wow! When you say that they are tacked in, that may be an exaggeration! Those tacks are almost non-existent! Pretty poor
quality control for such an expansive part!

Ron
 

TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
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Sorry if I'm a bit confused, are we talking about poor welds in the Morosso Aluminum pan or the FP350S pan? The Morosso pan I have has a much nicer weld than Fabman's picture.
 

cholmes1

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same with mine, we had to do significant work to the pan and the pickup tube. Works great though.
Can you elaborate on what significant work you did and any photos? I have the FRPP 12qt pan and would like to make the improvements before installation. I will certainly build off of @Fabman notes and improve the welds on the baffles and the pickup tube bracket.
 

captdistraction

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I'll dig for pictures but we did the following:

Pickup tube:
  • carefully removed the mounting flange ring (on the 5.2 style grommet end)
  • discarded the oem main stud it would connect to, used an arp stud
  • adjusted the grommet support until the pickup tube was level front to back (and centered exactly in the pump, out of the box it was 1/2" off front to back causing significant bind of the grommet and load into the rear bracket) and welded back in place
  • reinforced/triangulated the rear support bracket on the tube

Oil Pan
  • trimmed and smoothed edges of pan from rail to inner pan where it was shrouding oil drainback on the sides
  • reinforced the tack welds on one door plate baffle
  • properly trimmed the windage tray to fit the pickup tube (again, out of the box it wouldn't clear properly - wasn't even close to being able to install)
  • machined dowel inserts to center the pan on the block (out of the box there was no way to bolt the pan up to the coyote engine without overdrilling some of the mounting holes in the rail)

    Its a nice pan once massaged, but I'm shocked at the quality control on it given the pricing
 

cholmes1

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Thank you @captdistraction This is excellent information.

Is your FRPP oil pan mounted on a 5.0 or a 5.2? I have not heard about the windage tray fitment issues on the 5.0 engines

Any chance you recall the ARP stud number you used to mount the pickup tube?

Did you buy your pan and pickup tube from FRPP as a new kit or did you piece it together yourself?
 
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captdistraction

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Mine is on a CPC 5.0 (gen2 block) using a GT350 oil pump (boundary blueprinted with their new black series gear set and backplate).

I was looking to find the ARP stud part number; but its only necessary in usage with the 2018+ 5.0 or GT350 style pumps - and only necessary if you're a perfectionist or using arp studs in the mains anyways. They include a OEM stretchy stud in the kit, but if you're building an engine, you need a few of them for the various machining processes. Otherwise if its a stock bolt motor, you can just change the front main cap bolt out to the one they provide. I called ARP, gave them the application and asked for the stud they use for the oem rear standoff in their main stud kit.

Pickup tube modification work: (the rear bracket would cause the front to be off level, with the front level in the grommet, the rear was 1/2" off its mounting pad/stud)
6unnamed.jpg


5unnamed.jpg

the triangulated mounting bracket and revised grommet mount: ($200 later on an already $300 pickup tube)
IMG_1782.jpg


Pan alignment issues (and you can see some of the drainback shroulding issues, this was midway into cleaning that up):
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The issues with the windage tray interfering: (note the tray is 5/8" away from where it should be centered because it can't clear the pickup tube)
IMG_0580.jpg


one of the 3 cuts we had to make:
IMG_1982.jpg


The studs:
IMG_3118.jpg


I had to dig back into mine immediately after install unfortunately for an adjustment on the oil pump (thankfully a minor, if not laborious problem to fix that had no impact on the engine's health), but you can see the forward stud location (and some of the pretty deburring work and ported drainback work):
IMG_2490.jpg




In the end, many of these issues were due to the use of a 5.2 Style pump (which has a number of advantages over the 5.0 pump, though these might all be trumped by the new GT500 pump assembly as it might be the best of both worlds). The 5.2 voodoo pump flows more, has a higher bypass threshold (the 2018+ bypass is lower) but has the weird grommet type inlet which poses challenges. Those are made worse by the overall poor quality control in the FPP pan and pickup tube pieces. I don't have pictures of the welding on the pan, but in addition to fixing the baffle plate we affixed two very large magnets in the main bay to capture metal and provide some safety should anything in there break). Also surprising they don't provide a magnetic drain plug (its a M14x1.5 for anyone looking for one) for the price. The pan rail is also pretty far from level (3-5 hundredths - pulled in via the bolts, but we had to use ARP M6x1.0 bolts as the stock bolts deform and stretch easily, and the front bolts had to correct the pan pulling away from the timing cover)

Also, its worth noting this pan and pickup are no longer recommended for GT350/flat plane applications (probably due to the poor pickup tube bracket design):
1586971129681.png




They make a 5.0 bolt-on style tube that I have no experience with; but its 1/3 the cost and bolts on (so hopefully they bothered to align the front to rear bracket fitment).

For all the trouble and what I've paid, could have run a dry sump - or look at the GT500 pump/pan kit (and a set of Boudary's new black gears in it). The only thing I don't know about the new GT500 5.2 pump is where they have the stock bypass at (I know my pump makes 125 PSI cold before hitting the bypass), but it has a taller gearset than any coyote derivative before it, uses the bolt-on style pump attachment instead of the grommet to the pump, and has oem quality at 1/3 the price of this FP350S setup.

That said, so far so good on the FP350S setup, it works fine after all this work we've done to make it right.
 

Ron McCall

Pantera1889
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WOW! Thank you for that detailed forensic analysis.
Has anyone used the Armondo's road race Coyote pan??
Also, has anyone used the 2020 GT500 pan on a swapped SN95?

Ron
 
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gtorpedo

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Thanks for the write up @captdistraction

I wasn't as involved as you during my motor rebuild, but know JPC spent alot of time on the phone with Ford Performance to get comfort with the pan install. In hindsight, I wish they had done some of the same reinforcements on the baffles and pickup tube...just eliminates a few things on a long list of items to worry about.

Since we both have the 5.0 gen 2 block, are you using the OEM coyote dipstick and filling accordingly, or did you find the necessary fill level as indicated on the dipstick was changed with the new pan?
 

captdistraction

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I'm using GT500 aluminum valve covers, which necessitate the GT350 dip stick tube assembly (which is also the bottom half of the GT500 dip stick tube assembly).

As far as I can tell, using that with a normal gen2 dipstick puts me at the right level. I just drained the first round of oil out of it but I believe I'm around 14-15 quarts all in (accusump + oil cooler loop). I check it with the accusump filled and closed/off. I couldn't get any technical data on heights, and didn't have anything to use for proper depth to measure with the motor assembled to compare to.
 

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