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Morris Engineering 2-piece fixed rotor testing thread

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Fabman said:
Regarding warpage, I had a discussion with the engineer at HAWK a while back and he told me when switching between street and track pad compounds to stick with the same brand. He said that different manufacturers use different bonding agents and some of them don't like eachother. It can lead to warpage, cracking and hard spots in the rotors.
If you switch brands, take light sandpaper and scuff off all the old deposits before installing new pads. I can't verify that this is 100% true, but it sure made sense to me.

I've heard the same.
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
Fabman said:
Regarding warpage, I had a discussion with the engineer at HAWK a while back and he told me when switching between street and track pad compounds to stick with the same brand. He said that different manufacturers use different bonding agents and some of them don't like eachother. It can lead to warpage, cracking and hard spots in the rotors.
If you switch brands, take light sandpaper and scuff off all the old deposits before installing new pads. I can't verify that this is 100% true, but it sure made sense to me.

To be clear, I put the rotors on brand new, at the same time put in XP12's. Ran 300 track miles with this setup, and developed nasty vibe at about mile 200. I then ran the XP12's with the rotors for a couple hundred street miles to wear down the deposits because track pads are quite abrasive when cold. The vibe maintained its level after deposits were worn away

New set of rotors will be run with Raybestos ST47 pads only.
 
5,762
6,899
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Did they give you a break in proceedure for bedding pads and rotors?
Hawk and Baer both have thier own proceedures and they are quite specific.
You probably already know about all this but thought I'd mention it.
 
5,762
6,899
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Look under "Rotor seasoning and Pad Bedding proceedures".
http://baer.com/Tech-Info.html
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
Fabman said:
Look under "Rotor seasoning and Pad Bedding proceedures".
http://baer.com/Tech-Info.html

Thx - well versed in bedding :) Been doing this for a long time... That said, agree bedding is important!
 
5,762
6,899
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
I notice that the pad bedding proceedure and the rotor seasoning proceedure is different....so how is a guy supposed to do them both at the same time, but different?
 
My experience has been that carbotechs leave alot of deposits when driven on the street, XP12 and 24. So running them on the street may not have helped.
 
Fabman said:
I notice that the pad bedding proceedure and the rotor seasoning proceedure is different....so how is a guy supposed to do them both at the same time, but different?

I believe that most manufactures will tell you to perform the rotor bedding procedure first, then move on to the pad bedding procedure.
 
5,762
6,899
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Right, but when you have a new setup with new pads and new rotors as is often the case....then what? LOL.
 
I would do the pad bedding procedure, it will break-in the rotor as well. getting the pads up to temperature so they can transfer material on to the rotor is whats most important.

-Thierry
 
5,762
6,899
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Track50h said:
I would do the pad bedding procedure, it will break-in the rotor as well. getting the pads up to temperature so they can transfer material on to the rotor is whats most important.

-Thierry
Thats what I've been doing....just thought it was odd.
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
I just completed 2 days of track driving at Palmer Motorsports Park in Ware, MA. For this event, I had a new set of Morris 2-piece rotors, these ones being a “heavy casting” setup. The castings were thicker than the first set, and while a bit heavier, they were intended to be a bit more robust. Still are fixed 2-piece design.

The rotors did very well. On day 1, I ran the 2-piece rotor on the drivers side and an OEM rotor on the passenger side. Captured temps after a couple sessions. The OEM rotor consistently ran about 30-40F cooler temps than the OEM ones on the first day when I ran the Morris rotor on the driver’s side and the OEM on the passenger side. Caliper temps were lower as well by around 25F. I did not collect “hot pit” data, so I don’t have anything good for the high end of heat witnessed, but with about 1 minute of cooling from partial cool down lap to parking in the paddock and jumping out to grab the IR thermometer,the max rotor temps were like 575F (hottest on the outer surface) – inner area by the rotor hats were almost 100F cooler. Very clear gradient working from the inner surface outwards. And I was happy to see the hats staying in the 200F’s for the most part. The OEM “hats” were closer to the rotor temps, so Morris have a clear heat dissipation advantage

On day 2 I ran Morris rotors on both corners. The braking was consistent, fade free, and uneventful. Zero indications of shudder and no noise from the pads either. This is an important detail because every time I’ve run the Raybestos St47 front pads in the past, they would start to howl after about 100 track miles. In fact, on Day 1 PMP event, the passenger side front did start to howl at the end of the day. The developing noise on the OEM rotor from day 1 was not present though on the Morris rotor once the rotor/pad were bedded, and there were no surface cracks on the passenger rotor which saw about 110 miles of track driving yesterday. The drivers rotor, which saw about 225 total track miles, did have some mild surface cracking.

Take aways – the version 2.0 rotors (thicker casting) held up exceptionally well at Palmer during about 225 total track miles. Temps were consistently cooler than the OEM rotor, and the caliper and outside pad surfaces were lower as well. From a fade perspective, I had zero, which is really a first for me for a 2 day event. I bled the brakes last night and had zero air bubbles from the front or rear, which I don’t think has ever happened before. Temps yesterday climbed to about 80F, so it was a warm enough day to have significant heat build up. And I drive fairly aggressively… so I’m confident I put these through the ringer! Lastly, I had my brother with me, who is probably 275 lbs or so, for all 4 sessions yesterday, so we were hauling significantly more mass around all day!

The thicker rotor, thus far, has cured the issues I developed with the “thin” casting that I tested at Limerock. More testing to come, but I’m very happy at present. No issues to speak of at all during the 2 days of recent tracking
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
noldevin said:
That sounds very promising. How much weight did the thicker casting gain?

Input from the vendor is below:

Lightweight 2-piece rotor: 17.8 lbs each
Heavyweight 2-piece rotor: 21.3 lbs each
OEM rotor: 26 lbs each

Not the same level of weight savings, but for improved cooling and replaceable rings, I'm very happy. More to come as I continue to test these out, but they look to be promising.
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
Updates!

I was out at VIR a couple weeks ago with the mustang and the "heavy" rotors from Morris. They did exceptionally well! I had zero brake fade over two days of hard driving. The rotors do show some signs of surface cracking, but nothing out of the ordinary. I did not get rotor temps, however because I had zero fading issues I am confident that the rotors ran cooler than previously installed OEM rotors. Also the pad where was exceptional. I had very little front pad where over two days of hard driving at a brake intense course.

I am very happy with the rotors up to this point! i've put on a couple thousand miles on them this year, about 1000 track miles, and have nothing but good things to say. The "light weight" rotors I would give it another shot, but the "heavy" rotors that are still significantly lighter than the OEM rotors are excellent for hard track duty.

If anyone has any questions about the set up please PM me. In no way am I affiliated with Maurice engineering, however I want to give them props for a solid product at a very fair price
 

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