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Mt82 removal question

Drlee50

TMO Race
327
155
US
Boss 302
2012
do you guys pull the factory H pipe (with cats) to R and R the trans? Looks like it should clear. But I'd rather know prior to trying to pull the trans. Its on a 4 post lift with trans jack. Just me pulling it myself.

The nuts for the exhaust are nice and rusted. Ugh
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
1,835
299
Northeast
Absolutely yes.

Here’s why. You’ll have to pull the trans back several inches to clear the trans main shaft from the clutch assembly, and during the reinstall you’re going to need the extra wiggle room. Remove the mid pipes as well.

Once the exhaust is removed remove the DS & don’t let it hang from the Diff. Pinion Shaft.

Question, are you doing this to replace the clutch assembly?
 

Drlee50

TMO Race
327
155
US
Absolutely yes.

Here’s why. You’ll have to pull the trans back several inches to clear the trans main shaft from the clutch assembly, and during the reinstall you’re going to need the extra wiggle room. Remove the mid pipes as well.

Once the exhaust is removed remove the DS & don’t let it hang from the Diff. Pinion Shaft.

Question, are you doing this to replace the clutch assembly?
Thanks fir the advice. I did end up pulling the whole center section of the exhaust off. It sucked. Rusted on. 33k miles on the car and no winters. Go figure. Anyway, it completely stripped the threads off one of the studs at the header collector. Got it off, already took driveshaft out. Then I pulled the top bell bolts and pulled the trans out. I have a set of long tube headers sitting in the corner. Im debating about putting them in. Problem is I can already see getting to the header bolts is gonna suck. I'd be deleting the cats probably too since i have an off road H pipe sitting here too.

And yes the trans lost 4th syncros and totally lost 3rd gear ( bent or broken fork ?)
I have an excedy twin disk here and a new slave cyl tob as well. With the mgw race shifter and separate fluid reservoir, I think the weak links are covered now. And the high rpm reluctor wheel i bought too.

I did appreciate the extra room with exhaust out. And im gonna look for threads on header swaps now to try to get motivated to do that job while trans is out. Any tips are welcome!
Thanks!

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20200730_221751.jpg
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
1,835
299
Northeast
Nice garage set up. It looks like you have everything you need.

But while you’re there:
Inspect the OEM plastic hyd clutch line. I replaced mine with Ford Racing’s stainless steel line. It was pricy, but aftermarket SS line solutions are available for 1/2 that price.

Inspect the DS center support & joints. Note: A one-piece DS will shave off quite a few pounds of rotating mass. I used an aluminum 1-piece DS similar to Ford Racings unit. A noticeable difference.

Will you send your MT-82 to Ben Calimer ? He has excellent MT-82 solutions.

 

carver

breaker of wrenches
237
292
ontario
Just be careful to properly route and secure those blue O2 harnesses when it's all back together. One of mine was not secured and ended up melting against the header and shorted out causing blown fuses (#49 ) and limp mode etc. PITA !! o_O
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
3,108
1,552
Santiago, Chile
Nice garage set up. It looks like you have everything you need.

But while you’re there:
Inspect the OEM plastic hyd clutch line. I replaced mine with Ford Racing’s stainless steel line. It was pricy, but aftermarket SS line solutions are available for 1/2 that price.

Inspect the DS center support & joints. Note: A one-piece DS will shave off quite a few pounds of rotating mass. I used an aluminum 1-piece DS similar to Ford Racings unit. A noticeable difference.

Will you send your MT-82 to Ben Calimer ? He has excellent MT-82 solutions.


Dido on that.... Would go with one of Bens trannies... We got so good at changing MT82s that we could swap them in a afternoon. If you already killed a couple of syncros I would go with the Calimer Stage 3 for some peace of mind.

Full Disclosure... I killed about 5 of them :rolleyes: (at least).... finally settled on a Stage 3, Hoping it lasts!
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
3,108
1,552
Santiago, Chile
Ok, forgot to mention. before the stage three, the best tranny I had was a calimer Stage 1. That one lasted me two seasons in two series so it was about 40 race days plus practice days. The stock repaired MT82 units would last a season
 

Drlee50

TMO Race
327
155
US
Thanks for the help guys!
I am going to try to install these dynatech headers . I can't see pulling the kmember with it on a 4 post lift . I am going to try to do 1 side at a time and pull the motor mounts and the bracket that connects it to the block. Wish me luck!

Couple questions-
Is this a stock clutch line? Looks like ss braided to me. I bought an extra just in case .

Also is this a cj high rpm reluctor wheel already installed? Or is american muscle ripping me off?
It would be odd that I have a cj ring already installed....and a stock clutch. But it has a ss line? Wtf?

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302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
1,835
299
Northeast
That is a SS braided clutch line, (aftermarket type). Other than the ‘hit’ on the disc, it looks surprisingly good. It’s a Ford OEM unit, and yes they were made in Turkey.

They PN sticker is AM’s cataloged/inventory number & yes it looks like you have the CJ Pulse Ring X2.

Also, did a see a Tremec Trans Box?
 

Drlee50

TMO Race
327
155
US
I have studied these 2 rings and I can see absolutely no difference between them.. so someone must have already changed it. Car had brake cooling ducts too so it was obviously tracked. Odd they put the stock clutch back in.

Ill return the new reluctor I guess .

And yes that's a tremic box that I got the 2013 stock mt82 in. Came out of a local guys boss with 12k miles on it. He went with a 6060. Im gonna run this stocker again for now but I can obviously ship this core out for a built trans should this happen again. Hopefully the better twin disc clutch and the better shifter and blip shift will allow this one to last a little longer.

The stock clutch had a defect. Looks like a washer got impregnated under the friction material and it's eaten into the pressure plate face. Solid 1/2" of groove on inside . Flywheel has similar wear groove. But yes the heat marks look reasonable otherwise.

20200801_170634.jpg
 

67GTA

TMO Advanced
180
180
SoCal
There’s at least one, maybe two gaps on the ring that are noticeably spaced out farther than the others. I think that was the only valley that was built up with extra material. If you measure from the top of the tooth to the valley of the wide gaps, that’s the comparison you’ll want to make between the two rings.
 

Drlee50

TMO Race
327
155
US
You are correct! That wide valley is just a tad shallower on the cj. I guess if that makes all the difference- ill run it. That makes way more sense- you wouldn't install a cj and a stock clutch.

You know what I cant find- a damn clutch alignment tool! I have at least 3 if not 4....somewhere! Lol they don't rent em at local parts store. I have several arp bolts to order from summit for the headers etc. Ill get another from them.

Thanks a bunch!!
 

Drlee50

TMO Race
327
155
US
Well i strapped up the passenger side of the motor off the strut bar and pulled the motor mount. The stock header came off pretty easily. The dynatech header fits easily in there. I could probably use the factory studs again. I don't have new exhaust gaskets. You guys reuse your stock metal multilayer gaskets?
 

blacksheep-1

TMO Addict
2,365
1,873
If you leave the upper 2 bolts out of the bellhousing and the inner PITA starter bolt out, or replace with with a stud, it will make trans changes at the track a whole lot easier..so I've heard..kinda..
 

Drlee50

TMO Race
327
155
US
Lol i won't be swapping the trans at the track. But the 3rd starter bolt will not go back in. I did change the starter last race at the track. The top 2 bell bolts are not hard to get to from the top. Ill put them back in.

I did find the passenger motor mount nut was not even hand tight. One header stud totally not on the driver side. One of the 2 collector nuts was missing. Totally. One motor mount bracket to the block was loose. Lots of little stuff. This is why the pit crew checks EVERYTHING. Ill be going crazy with my paint marker on reassembly.
 

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