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Thanks fir the advice. I did end up pulling the whole center section of the exhaust off. It sucked. Rusted on. 33k miles on the car and no winters. Go figure. Anyway, it completely stripped the threads off one of the studs at the header collector. Got it off, already took driveshaft out. Then I pulled the top bell bolts and pulled the trans out. I have a set of long tube headers sitting in the corner. Im debating about putting them in. Problem is I can already see getting to the header bolts is gonna suck. I'd be deleting the cats probably too since i have an off road H pipe sitting here too.Absolutely yes.
Here’s why. You’ll have to pull the trans back several inches to clear the trans main shaft from the clutch assembly, and during the reinstall you’re going to need the extra wiggle room. Remove the mid pipes as well.
Once the exhaust is removed remove the DS & don’t let it hang from the Diff. Pinion Shaft.
Question, are you doing this to replace the clutch assembly?
Nice garage set up. It looks like you have everything you need.
But while you’re there:
Inspect the OEM plastic hyd clutch line. I replaced mine with Ford Racing’s stainless steel line. It was pricy, but aftermarket SS line solutions are available for 1/2 that price.
Inspect the DS center support & joints. Note: A one-piece DS will shave off quite a few pounds of rotating mass. I used an aluminum 1-piece DS similar to Ford Racings unit. A noticeable difference.
Will you send your MT-82 to Ben Calimer ? He has excellent MT-82 solutions.
That’s correct - FRPP modifies the stock piece. The depth of the valley between the teeth is shallower on the CJ ring. They just add extra material to the stock unit.