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MT82 repairs/upgrades/parts/tech advice

My name is Mike with AMP Distributing. We've been invited to create a thread to assist BMO members with tech advice, parts availability and repair services. Please feel free to post in here with your questions related to the MT82. You can also PM us if you prefer. I will respond as soon as possible.
 
Thanks Mike. This is another source for parts and repairs for the MT-82.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
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Would you consider putting together a package of MT82 upgrade parts or a Rebuild Kit with all of the improved parts?

What is your contact info? Address, phone numbers, etc.? Nothing is listed on your web-site.

Thanks,
302 Hi Pro
 
302 Hi Pro said:
Would you consider putting together a package of MT82 upgrade parts or a Rebuild Kit with all of the improved parts?

What is your contact info? Address, phone numbers, etc.? Nothing is listed on your web-site.

Thanks,
302 Hi Pro

Our phone number is 210-858-8557.
Our main website is www.ampdistributing.com
We are most active on Facebook @ www.facebook.com/ampdistributing
 
Flyboygsxr said:
Can you give us a little more information i.e. pricing, shipping, rebuild information?

On complete units, shipping runs about $250 round trip (this is business address to business address).

As for cost to build the units. A stage 2 unit would run $1495.00. That includes all bronze fork pads, bronze shift stop bushing, all new seals, all new synchronizer rings, REM polished synchronizer assemblies, a new 2nd gear, 1 quart of Syngear II fluid, a polyurethane transmission mount insert (if needed) and the bench labor (which includes a power wash, disassembly and reassembly along with welding up all shift forks). All of the rebuild work goes through our sister company Texas Motorsports. The contact number for them is 210-887-7615 and you can check out their work also on Facebook. www.facebook.com/txmotorsports

They also do rebuilds and upgrades on the Tremec based units and are an authorized Tremec repair facility.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,973
4,293
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
TXM site showed a 26 spline input shaft for the MT-82. Interesting!!

Besides the clutch plate and input shaft, what other parts need to be swapped to make this change? Is the overall diameter of the shaft bigger after the swap? Stronger? Torque ratings?
 
TMSBOSS said:
TXM site showed a 26 spline input shaft for the MT-82. Interesting!!

Besides the clutch plate and input shaft, what other parts need to be swapped to make this change? Is the overall diameter of the shaft bigger after the swap? Stronger? Torque ratings?

The shaft is a 28 mm diameter and uses a conventional 26 spline x 1.125" similar to what is found on the GT500 TR6060. Its made of forged SAE8620 material and the torque rating we set at 700lbs of torque although it will most likely exceed the capacity of the rest of the unit by a large margin.

We are also working on a stronger and more robust 2nd gear as well.
 
20150618_090853_zpsv7zc86lf.jpg

Just for comparison sake.

ed55a1c3-fe90-43d0-a4e6-977edd06272b_zpsj9akfo3g.jpg

Areas circled in color show irregular tooth profiles on the factory gear leading to gear whine in the unit.

MT8216Atooth_zpsnmw6qwef.jpg

Compared to our gear which is consistent, machined with tighter tolerances and operates quieter.
 
MT822ndgearissue_zps3zanh2e0.jpg

Very common damage to the 2nd gear inside the MT82 causing it to get stuck in gear or pop out of gear.

MT82slider_zpsfg8tjaum.jpg

Matching synchronizer sleeve that engages the 2nd gear. You can see the damages to the teeth thus leading to grinding and lock out of gear.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,973
4,293
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
Very promising indeed!!!

I just replaced the clutch 1000 miles back. When the trans or clutch require attention next, I will definitely be looking at your products and services!!
 
Mike, thanks for the photos. That input shaft looks impressive. There have also been some third gear failures where the gear shears into two pieces. Not my photo but this is what happened to mine. I had mine rebuilt twice and the second time was for noisy main bearings and I think they didn't do a good job cleaning it out after third gear broke. Also any thoughts on the best way to implement a trans cooler?

MT82brokenthirdgear_zps1192b62f.jpg
 
VooDooBOSS said:
Mike, thanks for the photos. That input shaft looks impressive. There have also been some third gear failures where the gear shears into two pieces. Not my photo but this is what happened to mine. I had mine rebuilt twice and the second time was for noisy main bearings and I think they didn't do a good job cleaning it out after third gear broke. Also any thoughts on the best way to implement a trans cooler?

MT82brokenthirdgear_zps1192b62f.jpg

That appears to be a failure to the welding process attaching the two pieces together. I have not encountered this issue yet but have seen it in other similar designed gears for other units. Unless it becomes a frequent issue, it most likely is just a defective part.

As for the cooler, usually heat saturation isn't a big issue in manual transmission cars like it is with automatics but it does depend on what the car is being used for. Corvette went to a cooling option in the T56 in the C6 cars. They uses a mechanical pump driven off the cluster gear to pump fluid out of the unit, into a cooler and back into the unit. My suggestion is that if you determine a cooler is needed, search out others who've successfully done it and can provide you the properly matched cooler to fit the needs. In the T56 units, we did an electric pump setup as well but to recirculate the oil from the rear of the unit to the front under hard acceleration to prevent the input shaft and head gear on the cluster from running dry and prematurely failing. I haven't seen this issue on the MT82 yet.
 
11752007_649756491790722_7317937337963283418_n.jpg


Most common issue with getting stuck in 3rd or 4th gear is a failure of the factory fork pads. This is where the after market pads we offer vastly improved durability of the unit.

12079476_676922555740782_8590777287426452772_n.jpg


This picture shows the length of the 3/4 shift fork and how much leverage is uses to push the transmission into gears. If you look closely, you can see the bronze pads installed.
 
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Mike - thank you for this thread and replying to my PM's. For the rest of the BMO community, Mike's shop is local to me and I am very tempted to have my MT82 rebuilt since I have experienced some of the usual issues (high rpm lockout and occasional grinding - despite doing all of the usual upgrades in an attempt to eradicate the problems: Stg 1 clutch, alloy flywheel, BR bracket, MGW, WL bushing, removed clutch assist spring, stainless clutch line).

Question for AMP-D: do you think that the rebuild will fix my high rpm issues?

Thank you!

John
 
Champale said:
Mike - thank you for this thread and replying to my PM's. For the rest of the BMO community, Mike's shop is local to me and I am very tempted to have my MT82 rebuilt since I have experienced some of the usual issues (high rpm lockout and occasional grinding - despite doing all of the usual upgrades in an attempt to eradicate the problems: Stg 1 clutch, alloy flywheel, BR bracket, MGW, WL bushing, removed clutch assist spring, stainless clutch line).

Question for AMP-D: do you think that the rebuild will fix my high rpm issues?

Thank you!

John

Most likely the high rpm lock out is a compound problem of worn parts inside the unit along with flex in the drivetrain and the damages has occurred progressively before and during your attempts to remedy it with aftermarket parts. Now that those parts are in place, a fresh transmission should hold up fairly well as long as the clutch is properly bled of air before driving it hard.
 
Reading through this thread and wondering if some of these problems mentioned w the MT82 are related mainly to drag strip type use, road course type use, or just inherent problems period?

My use would be mainly road course.
 
I think any type of driving that requires quick gear changes will accelerate the wear and eventually fail a part, which in return could damage more parts.

For me, the clutch gave up first at the track. I took it to a shop and since the transmission was dropped, I went ahead and had the shop upgrade whatever they could (minus the hardened gears). My clutch failure was due to heat, which caused the hub to fail. At that time I didn't heel-toe, so the clutch slip during downshifts probably contributed to the failure.
 

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