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Multiple issues (A/C, clunking suspension, Ball joints) on my 08

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225
177
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Colorado Springs
Been working on the car, several autoX events and street driving to sort it out since its still new. As the title says, I'm chasing a couple of items currently.

1) The A/C doesn't blow cold. The pulley is turning. The A/C system is charged per testing. When I turn the switch, the compressor doesn't seem to activate and it just flows air that seems to be outside temp. Which fuse is the AC fuse? Any ideas on what else to check?

2) Took it to the shop to swap out the all seasons to some Hankook RS4s. During which, he discovered the ball joints are shagged and the passenger inner tie rod is worn. So I am looking at swapping/upgrading. Since I am on 17 inch WHEELS for another month, there are a couple control arm options I cannot use due to clearance. After reading, it seems the easy upgrade but still staying stockish are the Ford Performance options. I don't see any great options for inner tie rods other than a direct replacement. Am I missing a great option that search isn't returning?

3) While the ball joints certainly can make a clunk over bumps and a bit of my steering vagueness might be attributed to this, I swear I am hearing noise independent in the rear and the front. I have new shocks. What else could cause a clunk when going slow over bad pavement? What other checks should I do to the front end to figure out if anything else is worn? What else might I evaluate up front or in the rear? Im trying to get whatever I can resolved by May 1 as there is a race school I'd like to attend.

As mentioned in #1, I found some takeoffs that I threw right on the 17s for the next month + till the 18s arrive. First track day on the much stickier tires are very confidence inspiring. Each course is new, but I estimate I dropped 3-4 seconds by comparison to others I was watching from the last 2 events. Jumped into the top half on yesterday's race day and < 1 second behind a bunch of "similar" modern muscle cars. Looks like RE71R s will be in my near future esp since I enjoy driving and can't see this not on the street.

Thanks ahead of time.
 
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8,190
Tie rods on these cars are the Achille's heel, you need to keep after them, it's one reason drivers would "protect" the front of the car from contact. Bouncing them off curbs and performance driving usually means extra maintenance. You may also want to check any rack attachment points for damage as well. As you've discovered, the ball joints also need looking after, there are several aftermarket replacements available that may be more robust. Anything that says Dorman is not one of them. In the rear, these cars are pretty straight forward, 6 bushings for the suspension and 4 shock bushings. If your car is lowered, you may want to see if it's bottoming out on the stops.
with regards to the AC, you say that the pulley is turning, and is charged, so it would seem that the fuse/breaker controlling that is functioning fine since you have to have the compressor running to check the pressures. you may have something jammed in one of the doors in the duct work that routes airflow, or possibly a switch. Get the car running, have someone stand out side watching the compressor and cycle the AC switch, it should come on momentarily. You may have smoked the AC clutch, but I've never seen one that at least didn't "try" to activate and spin the compressor. You can replace those without dumping the freon, BTW.
 
225
177
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Colorado Springs
Tie rods on these cars are the Achille's heel, you need to keep after them, it's one reason drivers would "protect" the front of the car from contact. Bouncing them off curbs and performance driving usually means extra maintenance. You may also want to check any rack attachment points for damage as well. As you've discovered, the ball joints also need looking after, there are several aftermarket replacements available that may be more robust. Anything that says Dorman is not one of them. In the rear, these cars are pretty straight forward, 6 bushings for the suspension and 4 shock bushings. If your car is lowered, you may want to see if it's bottoming out on the stops.
with regards to the AC, you say that the pulley is turning, and is charged, so it would seem that the fuse/breaker controlling that is functioning fine since you have to have the compressor running to check the pressures. you may have something jammed in one of the doors in the duct work that routes airflow, or possibly a switch. Get the car running, have someone stand out side watching the compressor and cycle the AC switch, it should come on momentarily. You may have smoked the AC clutch, but I've never seen one that at least didn't "try" to activate and spin the compressor. You can replace those without dumping the freon, BTW.


Yes on the tie rods. I noticed a quick degrading on the front since I have been driving (tie rods and ball joints I expect). Im looking at the Ford Perf control arm replacement, upgrade and not screwing with pressing out the ball joints just makes sense. Im looking at options for the bushing kits, how many of this in the rear are replaced with control arm upgrades, 5? I am also just looking at going all whiteline since I will have it apart and don't know what is thunking yet. Happy with the extra stiffness from the sway bars, but so much needed repairs, I cannot say how much 1 thing improved. I am still stock height, but likely try to have a small drop next year.

Interesting ideas on the A/C, will have to get a second to look at it when running re the compressor/clutch ideas, thanks. And that is great news about the freon!
 
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Well, if you are doing autocross, you need to check the rulebook first, to see what you are allowed to do. I am a great fan of Ford Performance parts, it was all we used in PWC and IMSA and they are designed to work together. They also come in "kits" with or without the adjustable shocks. They give you everything you need and are reasonably priced.

Something like this..
 
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Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,425
8,356
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
If your car is still stock , then you may want to consider staying in the F Street Class , which would mean you can not add hardly anything to the car modification wise. You can modify the exhaust behind the cat, do a K&N filter ( not a cold air intake ), change some bushings , get sticky tires , and a few more items. This is a good place to start because you would have to spend quite a bit to make the car competitive in E Street Prepared of CAMC. Now if road course use is your primary issue, make the mods , and jump into CAMC or ESP. CAMC is wide open , so often it is even easier than trying to do an ESP Class car.
The F Street concept is really solid, because it would give you time to get lots of seat time, decide what you really wanted to do the most of ( autocross or road racing ) and then once that is solid in your mind, all the money you would spend on mods likely would be enough to trade in your car and move up a decade in years, ha.
Have fun and you can always drop me a PM if you want some suggestions for careening through the cones!
 
225
177
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Colorado Springs
If your car is still stock , then you may want to consider staying in the F Street Class , which would mean you can not add hardly anything to the car modification wise. You can modify the exhaust behind the cat, do a K&N filter ( not a cold air intake ), change some bushings , get sticky tires , and a few more items. This is a good place to start because you would have to spend quite a bit to make the car competitive in E Street Prepared of CAMC. Now if road course use is your primary issue, make the mods , and jump into CAMC or ESP. CAMC is wide open , so often it is even easier than trying to do an ESP Class car.
The F Street concept is really solid, because it would give you time to get lots of seat time, decide what you really wanted to do the most of ( autocross or road racing ) and then once that is solid in your mind, all the money you would spend on mods likely would be enough to trade in your car and move up a decade in years, ha.
Have fun and you can always drop me a PM if you want some suggestions for careening through the cones!


So for now its SCCA AutoX and I am in CAMC (2 sway bars were 1 too much and I do plan on some road course activities) but locally there is a large CAMC class so it feels pretty equal. My primary org is PPIR's Track Attack (all race days are 27 minutes from my house and seem a bit more laid back) and they are HP/Weight based on drive type. My primary class is RA and my secondary class is GT. In RA was 27th out of 49 and 5.6 seconds off the leader. The top 15 all have fully dedicated race cars. Im not that serious, if I get there, I may reevaluate the vehicle but the reality is 1) its fun to beat people with a car that shouldn't and 2) I love the way it sounds and gets around. If I can get all the new parts installed I am going to the SCCA Speed Train on May 1.

Open Lap days will be coming, but figure since I only get so many days to go play, I will focus on Track Attack where I can monitor my times and growth (or lack of).

Following the direction @blacksheep-1 indicated above on single manufacturer, I opted to stick with whiteline since I already have the swaybars. Co control arms, panhard and the tie rods
+ new FP control arms are in the mail. Old tired parts on a 13 Y.O. car.

I will definitely reach out once I get a better feel for questions. I am still very new in the what adjustments on which components for what reasons and how do I know... I still don't know what I don't know.

And since everyone loves pics.... .5 seconds and $80k between my little "beater" and his fancy trailer queen. But god his car sounded nice. Video of mine will eventually make it to youtube, I need to set up a channel I suppose.

173705869_10157769454876496_4731415603774395608_n.jpg
 
1,163
2,121
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
SoCal
What else could cause a clunk when going slow over bad pavement? What other checks should I do to the front end to figure out if anything else is worn? What else might I evaluate up front or in the rear?
I watched your video in the other thread and can definitely hear the noise your talking about. Have you checked the upper link on the rear axle? There’s a large bolt under the rear seat that bolts through the floor pan into the control arm mount underneath. The early 05-09 used a smaller bolt and I think were prone to making a clunking noise. Take the rear seats out, take it for a drive and see if the noise is noticeably louder.
 
225
177
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Colorado Springs
I watched your video in the other thread and can definitely hear the noise your talking about. Have you checked the upper link on the rear axle? There’s a large bolt under the rear seat that bolts through the floor pan into the control arm mount underneath. The early 05-09 used a smaller bolt and I think were prone to making a clunking noise. Take the rear seats out, take it for a drive and see if the noise is noticeably louder.

I have not checked it, will put that on the list when I make room in the garage! Thanks. Lets say that is the source, is this a tighten back down or a it may be sheered off type of issue. Main problem, I don't notice the clunk when I am driving on the street, I only notice it during the filming / video and am tossing it around.

edit / update - looks like that bolt you are referring to is the same as the one for the rear upper control arm, so check it and evaluate. Do people replace with a larger diameter bolt to reduce slop?
 
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6,363
8,190
trailing arm..

The later cars have a redesigned upper trailing arm bracket that takes a different size bolt(s). That being said, if the hole is not wanged out, and the bolts are tight, then that's as good as it gets.
 
225
177
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Colorado Springs
trailing arm..

The later cars have a redesigned upper trailing arm bracket that takes a different size bolt(s). That being said, if the hole is not wanged out, and the bolts are tight, then that's as good as it gets.


Spent all weekend on NON-car projects and recleaning the garage to make room to pull it back in and put all the new parts on. Hoping the hole isn't wallowed it, guess if it is, it should be a simple fix. But if it isn't, Im still looking for the source of the clunk...
 
6,363
8,190
Spent all weekend on NON-car projects and recleaning the garage to make room to pull it back in and put all the new parts on. Hoping the hole isn't wallowed it, guess if it is, it should be a simple fix. But if it isn't, Im still looking for the source of the clunk...
I feel ya, just came in from working in the wife's garden putting up a new fence and a ramp to the garden shed.
 
225
177
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Colorado Springs
I feel ya, just came in from working in the wife's garden putting up a new fence and a ramp to the garden shed.


Must be nice, ;) the garden work is 4 projects down the road. I asked "what do you want to do with the front yard this year?". I was told, "Lets just stucco the front of the house and install new insulation before that happens. Then you can put new siding on the east and west sides."

WHAT! I was talking about the grass! Now I need to replace 7 windows before the stucco guy can do his thing. Crap, should have slept in that day.
 

TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
3,787
2,740
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Brighton, Colorado
Ah, the married life. There is no such thing as a simple or small home project. I have so much work to do on my Boss but so little tyme these days. I thought working from home and virtually no business travel would help me accomplish more on the car but instead the honey-do list grows exponentially.
 

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