Must Have Street/Track Mods

[Kevin Guzniczak]

What would be recommended camber ? The car see's 4-5 track days dont want to re-align the car for each track day. I have MM plates up front do i need anything in the rear to adjust rear camber? When you say 'go very fast do you mean speed? or burn off?'

I will be buying tires in the off season just looking at what I can do prior to my next track event sept 20 to gain some speed

In running the -1.7 up front based on Ford Performance track setting and they wear fine on the street. I’m planning on marking that spot on my towers and adjusting to -2.5 for track events. I have a good digital camber gauge on order from Longacre


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[petstang]

What would be recommended camber ? The car see's 4-5 track days dont want to re-align the car for each track day. I have MM plates up front do i need anything in the rear to adjust rear camber? When you say 'go very fast do you mean speed? or burn off?'

I will be buying tires in the off season just looking at what I can do prior to my next track event sept 20 to gain some speed

My camber settings are -2.5 front and -2 rear. I do not re-align my car after each track event. I switch and put my OEM wheels and tires in case I need to drive it on the street. My Michelin Super Sports don't seem to suffer from those camber settings during those short rides.

I don't think you need anything specific to have more camber in the rear ? My shop was able to set it up in the rear without additional mods. In the front I have the Vorshlag camber plates installed.

When I say "go very fast", I mean the tire tread burn off fast. That's why I am thinking about more front negative camber, I will try -3 next track day.

 

[Protouring]

My car is driven on the street to a tune of a few thousand kms a year. Looking for a happy medium or an easy way to change the setup. As stated i do have MM camber kit up front. I have the car using the R setup as i was told it would keep a happy medium for street/track use, but looks like i should aim for more (-) camber

 

[2012-Boss]

First, an actual race pad compound and fresh, high quality DOT 4 fluid.

Second is a roll bar, race seat, and harness. It will not only protect you, but also help you driving the car. If you are not fighting to keep yourself in place, you can concentrate more effectively on driving the car - which will yield lower lap times.

Third, buy a HANS.

Fourth, you will probably find you need more negative front camber than what the 350R supplement recommends for the track.

Fifth, lighter wheels and sticky tires. If you are not driving to the track, skip the Sport Cups. After a two or three laps they simply do not perform on the same level as a Hoosier R7 or a Pirelli DH.

I do not recommend tuning, headers, etcetera with the GT350. The power gain is not worth having the warranty denied.

 

[Protouring]

First, an actual race pad compound and fresh, high quality DOT 4 fluid.

Second is a roll bar, race seat, and harness. It will not only protect you, but also help you driving the car. If you are not fighting to keep yourself in place, you can concentrate more effectively on driving the car - which will yield lower lap times.

Third, buy a HANS.

Fourth, you will probably find you need more negative front camber than what the 350R supplement recommends for the track.

Fifth, lighter wheels and sticky tires. If you are not driving to the track, skip the Sport Cups. After a two or three laps they simply do not perform on the same level as a Hoosier R7 or a Pirelli DH.

I do not recommend tuning, headers, etcetera with the GT350. The power gain is not worth having the warranty denied.

Recommendations for good pads for street/track use & Fluid?

Harness & Seats will be a must for next track day way to much movement in the car.

As for camber what are most people using for front camber... again my car is mostly street use with a few track days a year. The car is driven to the track hence the SC2's but would consider the potential for slicks although dont slicks require even more aggressive camber setting?

 

[Coz]

For brake fluid go with Motul RBF600 or Wildwood EXP600. Amsoil may have something similar. For about 50% more go with Castrol SRF. That's pretty much the ultimate and has a wet boiling point higher than the dry boiling point for some other DOT4 fluids.

You're really not going to have a pad for both street and track unless you want to put up with noise and dust. For the street some USA made pads are the Carbotech 1521 or G-LOC GS-1
http://www.ctbrakes.com/brake-compounds2.asp
http://www.g-locbrakes.com/products/brake-compounds/

For the Track, it depends how aggressive you are and the top speeds at the end of the straights. The XP8 or R8 from the two companies above would be the minimum. If you're not too aggressive you can just use track pads on the front and keep the street pads on the back. If you're more aggressive go up the the chart in the compound selection. Keep your rear pad compound 1-2 levels below your front compound.

The Raybestos ST-43 compound is also well regarded.

 

[Norm Peterson]

On pads, if you can live with the dust and some noise, Carbotech/G-loc pads up to 12's are not harsh on your rotors in street duty. Many, maybe most track pads cannot make the same claim. FWIW, 10's seem to last longer than 12's.

I can't find anything on alignment specs, but if your normal driving has any enthusiasm to it you should be able to live with at least -1.9° front camber for a strut-suspended car in daily driving.


Norm

 

[Kevin Guzniczak]

On pads, if you can live with the dust and some noise, Carbotech/G-loc pads up to 12's are not harsh on your rotors in street duty. Many, maybe most track pads cannot make the same claim. FWIW, 10's seem to last longer than 12's.

I can't find anything on alignment specs, but if your normal driving has any enthusiasm to it you should be able to live with at least -1.9° front camber for a strut-suspended car in daily driving.


Norm

I agree on the Gloc or carbotech 12 or lower being fine for the street except in the way of cost. Best to use the OEM pads for street wear and save the costlier track pads for wear on the track only.


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