My motor blew up......now what?

[Fabman]

I apologize for my ignorance up front but I'm not getting the concept.

I always thought that getting the oil off the crank would help reduce horsepower loss. But how does it help reduce the chance of a blown engine?

Can the amount of oil that would otherwise remain up in the crank exceed 8 fluid ounces? Even a pint? With a larger capacity & baffled oil pan, how does that make a difference?

It’s about oil control. Keeping it in the pan, not whipped up in windage, getting beat up, heated and turned into foam. The horse power gain is a bonus. The main purpose is to keep oil pure fluid and in the pan so the pump can send 100% foam free oil to the bearings. as soon as you loose that pressure fed oil wedge between moving parts bearings start to fail and we all know what happens after that.

 

[Fabman]

I apologize for my ignorance up front but I'm not getting the concept.

I always thought that getting the oil off the crank would help reduce horsepower loss. But how does it help reduce the chance of a blown engine?

Can the amount of oil that would otherwise remain up in the crank exceed 8 fluid ounces? Even a pint? With a larger capacity & baffled oil pan, how does that make a difference?

The crank can whip up several quarts of oil and turn it to foam…what’s happening in there is basically a cyclone. Smokey Yunick made a clear oil pan and proved this concept back in the 50’s. Been common knowledge since. This is why a dry sump is so efficient. No oil in the pan at all. As soon as it hits the bottom of the pan it’s sucked up and sent to a several gallon tank where the oil is spun through plates and air is separated from it so by the time the oil is pumped back into the engine its 100% foam free. The bonus is again, freeing up horsepower that would otherwise be wasted churning up oil and turning it into foam.

 

[Coz]

Thanks guys! The foaming issue is what I was missing.

 

[docs302]

Thought I would post an update since it's been almost a year and a half since I started this post. Waited from April until December before giving up on ever getting my crank scraper and tray so I got most of this done in the last 5 weeks. Other than the upgraded valve springs, L&M intake cams and GT500 oil pan kit it's the stock Boss heads and Gen 1 timing gear on a new Gen 3 short block. Timing cover will go on next once I figure out how to replace the crank seal. There will be larger fuel injectors for an E85 tune and ported CJ intake manifold. Then it goes to the tuner for install. Hoping for 500HP.

 

[Mad Hatter]

Getting the crank scraper was a pain in the ass... had to call them every couple of days until it was shipped. But your motor looks great!

 

[Fabman]

Getting the crank scraper was a pain in the ass... had to call them every couple of days until it was shipped. But your motor looks great!

I just sweet talked is wife into making him push mine to the front of the line.

Shaun is making them now so that's the go to place to get them.

 

[67GTA]

Thought I would post an update since it's been almost a year and a half since I started this post. Waited from April until December before giving up on ever getting my crank scraper and tray so I got most of this done in the last 5 weeks. Other than the upgraded valve springs, L&M intake cams and GT500 oil pan kit it's the stock Boss heads and Gen 1 timing gear on a new Gen 3 short block. Timing cover will go on next once I figure out how to replace the crank seal. There will be larger fuel injectors for an E85 tune and ported CJ intake manifold. Then it goes to the tuner for install. Hoping for 500HP.

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Good call making sure you have that crank seal right - it has to be recessed into the timing cover. @captdistraction shared this diagram earlier;

 

[docs302]

Good call making sure you have that crank seal right - it has to be recessed into the timing cover. @captdistraction shared this diagram earlier;

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Holy crap.......I thought you just press it in and it's done. So the cover has to be on the car to replace the seal? I was going to pop it in and then put the cover on. Glad you posted this. The Ford manual doesn't get into this unless I missed it.

 

[67GTA]

Holy crap.......I thought you just press it in and it's done. So the cover has to be on the car to replace the seal? I was going to pop it in and then put the cover on. Glad you posted this. The Ford manual doesn't get into this unless I missed it.

I did the same thing - assumed it was flush. The factory service manual doesn’t mention it because the recess is built into the Rotunda tool.

 

[2012-Boss]

I did the same thing - assumed it was flush. The factory service manual doesn’t mention it because the recess is built into the Rotunda tool.

Front cover and rear main seal both need to be installed using the tools called out in the manual to ensure the seals are square and at the proper depth.

 

[67GTA]

Front cover and rear main seal both need to be installed using the tools called out in the manual to ensure the seals are square and at the proper depth.

Good call, I bought mine as an assembled shortblock so the rear main was already installed. I plan on rebuilding my original shortblock so I’ll write a reminder in the assembly manual.

 

[Frank.JD.Perez]

Build a new one

 

[2012-Boss]

Good call, I bought mine as an assembled shortblock so the rear main was already installed. I plan on rebuilding my original shortblock so I’ll write a reminder in the assembly manual.

If it is a Gen 3 short block going into a Gen 1 / Gen 2 car, you will need to swap the rear main seal retainer plate for a Gen 1 and install a new seal. The Gen 3 uses a different crank sensor and the retainer plate is cast differently for the sensor.

 

[302BOB]

When I first saw the title of this thread................My first thought was........put your gas foot on a diet............We all know that ain't the answer....A blown motor is something that you hope never happens to you...If it does, A part of you goes with it....That's a feeling you can never describe to anybody...............

 

[docs302]

If it is a Gen 3 short block going into a Gen 1 / Gen 2 car, you will need to swap the rear main seal retainer plate for a Gen 1 and install a new seal. The Gen 3 uses a different crank sensor and the retainer plate is cast differently for the sensor.

Yup I did remember you telling me that a while back and that's what I did

 

[Dupont2406]

Good call making sure you have that crank seal right - it has to be recessed into the timing cover. @captdistraction shared this diagram earlier;

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I don't think this diagram is telling you to recess the seal. It is giving you the max runout of the housing and seal in relation the to centerline of the crankshaft. It wants you to first check the housing runout and then check the seal runout after install. No more than 0.50 FIM (Full Indicator Movement) runout so the seal is square with the crankshaft and not crooked. It is not telling you to recess the seal 0.50.

 

[67GTA]

I don't think this diagram is telling you to recess the seal. It is giving you the max runout of the housing and seal in relation the to centerline of the crankshaft. It wants you to first check the housing runout and then check the seal runout after install. No more than 0.50 FIM (Full Indicator Movement) runout so the seal is square with the crankshaft and not crooked. It is not telling you to recess the seal 0.50.

The diagram in the upper right is the only visual that I’ve seen that shows the metal portion of the seal set back slightly in the cover. You’re right, there is no specific measurement provided for the depth. I think it’s assumed you’re using the specific Rotunda seal press that has the depth built into the tool. I can say from experience that installing it flush will damage the lip of the seal after a short amount of time.