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My motor blew up......now what?

FWIW, it appears that the Boss long block and short block are available. $8800/3300 at Tasca + core charge
Yes....forgot I did see that Boss shortblock on Tasca for $3300. I would imagine the Aluminator is going to be more stout and I definitely don't want to see this happen again so it might be worth the extra $1700.
 
That's what I don't know yet. Since I will be taking the top end down for the first time and I have no guide at the moment it will be a while before I get there. I am really hoping the heads are ok.


I could use some help on this. I saw the Gen 3 Aluminator 12:1 short block #M-6009-A50NAB for around $5600. If I can use my current L&M cams, CJ intake, Meziere water pump and heads then that could work. I can buy a used Boss 302 motor but I don't know the cost yet. Any other options?
Everything will transfer to the Gen3. You may want to switch to a Gen2 oil filter mount as the Gen 3 has an oil control solenoid. Not sure if it bleeds off oil pressure if it's not wired in.
The Gen3 aluminator SB can be had for $5K shipped.
 
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The Gen 2 oil filter adapter will fit the Gen 3 shortblock. The Gen 2 oil filter adapter also fits the 2011 - 2014 chassis without any clearance issues (ask me how I know...). If you unplug the Gen 3 oil control solenoid the motor will maintain higher oil pressures across the board, especially at part throttle and idle. Disconnecting the solenoid will generate permanent codes in a 2018 and newer, but the motor will not go into limp mode.
 
On 9-19 I purchased a Gen 3 Aluminator short block from LMR for $4,899.99 plus 296.97 tax . I called Ford Performance and found out they don’t have oil filter adapters and they won’t send it to me even though I will be using my gen 2 adapter. Next day they tell me it is on back order on 12-31-21 😡 at the same time I ordered the GT500 oil pan and it arrived 3 days later. As far as The gen 2 heads I have found them but they want $125 more per head than the ones I will be waiting for.
 
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That's what I don't know yet. Since I will be taking the top end down for the first time and I have no guide at the moment it will be a while before I get there. I am really hoping the heads are ok.


I could use some help on this. I saw the Gen 3 Aluminator 12:1 short block #M-6009-A50NAB for around $5600. If I can use my current L&M cams, CJ intake, Meziere water pump and heads then that could work. I can buy a used Boss 302 motor but I don't know the cost yet. Any other options?
Late Model Restoration has the Gen 3 M-6009-A50NAB Aluminator short block for $4999.00 shipped.

All of your components will fit the Gen 3 short block. You will need to use a Gen 2 oil adapter and Gen 1 / Boss head gaskets. Everything else from your motor will fit. You will need to change the rear main seal retainer plate - the crank sensor is different on the Gen 3 and not compatible with the Gen 1 wiring or PCM. You can use the plate off your existing engine. I suggest installing a new rear main seal while you are at it.

I have a Gen 3 Aluminator with Gen 2 heads, Gen 1 timing components, CJ intake, L&M intake cams, CJ exhaust cams, etcetera sitting in the garage to be installed in a friends car this weekend.

While 12:1, the Mahle pistons have huge reliefs cut in them for valve clearance. If it was my motor and I had the time, I would check piston to valve clearances with the Aluminator short block and see if I could run a set of the Comp Cams Gen 1 CR series Coyote cams without phase limiters. If there is enough clearance to use the full 50 degrees of VCT intake advance as well as the full 50 degree sweep on the exhaust, you could get back most if not all of the mid-range these cams typically loose and make more power than your L&M combination above 5,000 - 5,000 RMP. I would also use a better PAC valve spring with these cams vs. the Boss valve springs.

Once you get the motor apart you need to look closely for any indication of piston to valve contact and be preparred to have valves, guides, and springs replaced. Also, if you intend to reuse the lash adjusters and finger followers (not really a good idea), they must go back exactly where they came from - they establish wear patterns. So, back in the same lifter bore, matched to the same follower, on the same lobe and valve.

If they are available again, installing a new set of Gen 2 heads is a cost effective alternative to having old heads reworked. You would need to use Gen 2 head gaskets. The Gen 2 heads flow as well as the Boss heads. But, they have been on back order forever. Expect to spend somewhere in the neighborhood of $1,200 having your Boss heads reworked if you need to replace a few valves and the guides. That only covers machine shop labor and the guides, you still need to pay for springs, seals, etcetera. That is why the Gen 2 head is such a good deal. They are about $1,200 fully loaded with Boss springs including core charge.

Gen 1 timing components are on back order. You should really put the Ford Performance installation kit on order now - it will take several months to get at a minimum. We had to reuse the phasers, tensioners, etcetera out of the old engine due to parts availability. We were able to get new timing chains.

The new Boss long and short blocks are really expensive for what you get. If you need to save money, you can get a Gen 3 production short block for about $2,500. You might also look for a Gen 2 long block. They were $5,500 when available earlier this year. All you would need to do is swap over to Gen 1 timing components and install your cams.

Don't forget you will need a crank damper. I wouldn't re-use a nearly ten year old OEM damper. Unfortunately, the Boss damper is discontinued. I would probably just get a Gen 3 OEM damper and install that. If you have the proper tools to measure crank to damper bore clearances, I would consider an ATI. Having said that, the ATI has gotten a bad rap on this board - probably because of engine failures that might have been damper related because people did not check the press fit clearances IAW the ATI instructions. ATI actually recommends you measure your crank snout, send them the measurements, and they will bore and hone the dampter to needed clearances.

The Aluminator short block does not come with an oil pump or pickup. You can reuse your existing components (make sure you clean out the pump and pickup). However, this is a good time for a oil system upgrade if you have not already done so. The Ford Performance GT500 pump, pickup, and pan kit is a very good choice. The GT500 pump and pickup are higher volume and the pump has thicker oil pump gears so you really do not need to replace them for a N/A build - If they hold up to a supercharger, you are unlikely to every break them in your application.

If you do not install the GT500 setup, a new OEM pump with billet gears installed is a good idea. Don't install billet gears in an old pump - there have been a lot of clearance related issues when others have tried that. Also install a billet crank sprocket.

Hope this helps. Not to be discouraging, but expect it to takes months for you to get all the parts you will need.
 
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Forgot to mention you need Gen 3 head bolts with the Gen 3 short block.

You also need torque wrenches that can measure torquing angles accurately. A lot of the assembly instructions require you to tighten fastners to a certain torque, say 89 in / lb and then tighten another 45 degrees. I would'nt just eyeball that on things like the heads, cam journals etcetera. You can get away with that on the water pump, but anything with a clearance requires the use of the correct tools during installation.
 
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On 9-19 I purchased a Gen 3 Aluminator short block from LMR for $4,899.99 plus 296.97 tax . I called Ford Performance and found out they don’t have oil filter adapters and they won’t send it to me even though I will be using my gen 2 adapter. Next day they tell me it is on back order on 12-31-21 😡 at the same time I ordered the GT500 oil pan and it arrived 3 days later. As far as Thebes 2 heads I have found them but they want $125 more per head than the ones I will be waiting for.
If the Ford Performance M-6881-M50A oil line adapter is on back order you can us the OEM / production Gen 2 adapter and filter mount.

Like I said, expect it to take months to get all the parts you will need....
 
Like I said, expect it to take months to get all the parts you will need....
This sounds like something I would never want to go thru or even attempt....best of luck on your project/s...I.m sure you will smile (a lot) when you finally complete your mission........meanwhile endure/enjoy? the journey.........................................................
 
If the Ford Performance M-6881-M50A oil line adapter is on back order you can us the OEM / production Gen 2 adapter and filter mount.

Like I said, expect it to take months to get all the parts you will need....
I tried to tell them I would take the Aluminator short block without the gen 3 oil filter adapter because I am using gen 2 adapter. They won’t send me the short block. Like you said gen 2 heads flow as good as the Boss heads and they come with Boss valve springs.
 
2012-Boss......thanks a million for all of this info. You probably answered every question I had.

First off.....I am pulling my motor myself but I'll leave the install to a pro.

the crank sensor is different on the Gen 3 and not compatible with the Gen 1 wiring or PCM.
So by using the old plate we will be good to go? I was thinking about a couple of MMR products:

2011-17 5.0 Coyote Billet Rear Cover, Trigger wheel & sensor kit​

Roller Bearing Thrust System Oil Pump Backing plate 5.0 Coyote​

My plan is to start with a stronger foundation so forged internals is a must. It's either the Gen 3 Aluminator or L&M's unit but since the difference in price is over 2K it's likely the Aluminator. They use similar parts anyway.

I'm confused about the oil filter adapter. I searched and assumed you would use a Gen 2 model year Mustang GT as your vehicle and got several options for part numbers. Not sure which one is the right one.

L&M includes an ATI dampener on their long blocks so I will definitely replace mine with a new unit.

I also planned a new GT500 OEM billet oil pump and pick-up along with the crank sprocket. I will likely buy new timing chains.

The heads and cams are still an unknown. For cost savings I wanted to use my Boss heads and figured since they were out why not work on them for better flow. I was already planning to upgrade the valve springs so I can safely rev to 7800. I was considering custom cams that could outperform the L&M set I have now so your idea is one I have to look at. Never considered Gen 2 heads but if i can't swing the Gen 1 upgrades maybe I go that direction.

I have accepted that I may have to take next year off if I want to wait and do all of the upgrades I really want. I get one shot at this so why compromise.

I'll update as I get more info.
 
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I tried to tell them I would take the Aluminator short block without the gen 3 oil filter adapter because I am using gen 2 adapter. They won’t send me the short block. Like you said gen 2 heads flow as good as the Boss heads and they come with Boss valve springs.
Its three bolts to remove the Gen 3 oil adapter from the short block. It takes longer to get your tools out of the tool box and set the torque wrench than it does to remove the Gen 3 and install the Gen 2 oil adapter. Just buy the short block and swap your Gen 2 adapter onto it.
 
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2011-17 5.0 Coyote Billet Rear Cover, Trigger wheel & sensor kit​

Roller Bearing Thrust System Oil Pump Backing plate 5.0 Coyote​


These are not needed in the least bit in a N/A build. Just use your existing plate, crank sensor, and trigger wheel. You don't need the oil pump backing plate either. Just either upgrade to the GT500 setup or install billet gears in a new pump for a lot less money. You should really consider installing a better oil pan than the OEM. Personally, I would go with the GT500 setup. You get higher volume, stronger gears, and a really well baffled pan.

In the build I have in the garage we cleaned, inspected, and reused the oil system components. They consisted of a Moroso aluminum baffled pan, Ford Performance CJ oil pump, OEM pickup tube, and billet crank sprocket.

I have the GT500 setup in the basement for when I build a new motor for myself this next year.

If you have to reuse timing components (i.e. phasers etcetera) due to availability, don't forget the phaser and cam journal bolts are one-time use. If you track the care frequently, you need to consider replacing the valve springs about every 20 weekends. Buying the ARP fasteners for these items is a good idea. They can be reused.

Re-assembly is really not that difficult. Just spend the money for the Ford workshop manuals and study them before you start. Unfortunately, the workshop manuals have a really confusing layout. They don't have simple sections like "oil pump installation" or "cam and timing chain" installation. You have to dig through the manual reading through removal procedures to find the installation instructions.....and there are minor mistakes. For example, the manual does not mention needing to remove the pilot bearing to replace the rear main seal - but the specialty tool for installing the rear main seal only works with the plate installed and the pilot bearing removed.
 
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I am assuming you have replaced your OEM clutch since you track your car regularly. If not, put a better clutch in while the motor is our. If the car only sees limited street use, get an Exedy hyper single.

I am not a fan of the McLeod RST/RXT clutches for road race use. Out four cars we installed, two of them cracked the pressure plate bolt holes.
 
Its three bolts to remove the Gen 3 oil adapter from the short block. It takes longer to get your tools out of the tool box and set the torque wrench than it does to remove the Gen 3 and install the Gen 2 oil adapter. Just buy the short block and swap your Gen 2 adapter onto it.
I did buy the gen 3 Aluminator short block but they won’t ship it until THEY get a gen 3 oil filter adapter That I will not use. Ford will not ship the short block to mr😡😡😡
 
I have a Moroso oil pan and Exedy clutch. I'll save my money on the other stuff. I made 475 rwhp with my current set-up so I really want to reach 500. I'm thinking with the right heads and maybe better cams (L&M custom grind possibly) I should get there. I would be happy with that.
 
Re-assembly is really not that difficult.
It's more about needing the right tools.....and missing a timing mark and screwing the whole thing up. I will admit I would love to get the hang of doing the work so I don't need to keep farming it out.
 
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....I have been summoned by the dark forces to this thread... :p

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I've never understood the hatred of "cross make engine swaps", and with groups like NASA and GL and GTA allowing these without penalty, it comes down to dollars and sense (pun intended!) :p

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As some have mentioned there is an easy solution to this, well... easiER. That's an LS swap. We have LS swap kits for both S197 and S550 Mustangs, and we're knee deep into a 1st gen swap, too.

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My customer paid $10.5K for a 7.0L LS7 crate motor, dry sump, soup to nuts. We shoved it into his 1967 Mustang, easy as pie. You can spend even less on an LS3 crate engine, and with the right engine builder, not much if any more for a "built" LS engine that has even more potential.

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This image is hard to ignore - an LS V8 (factory 4.8 to 7.0L displacement) has been built and used in 100M+ cars and trucks, and the Coyote only comes in the Mustang and F150 (which is different in many ways). And it is a FOOT WIDER.

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Of course in stock form the Gen I/II/III Coyote in the Mustangs are pretty powerful, and if you upgrade the cooling / fix the oil temp issues / and NEVER rev it too much beyond 7000 rpm they can be fairly reliable. I loved my Gen I and Gen III powered Mustangs, but beyond 430 (Gen I) to 480 whp (Gen III), there are no good options to adding more power and maintaining reliability. These engines are a bit fragile... oil pumps break, the cam many chains / followers can break, they have 4 cams / 32 valves, and that all combines to make them cost more to mod than a 16 valve Gen III/IV/V LS/LT.

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Not only is the LS/LT block a smaller package externally, they tend to be more reliable at the same power levels, as well as lighter. The Gen II Coyote 5.0 + T56 Magnum XL above ended up being 95 pounds heavier than my built GEN III aluminum LS 6.3L + T56 Magnum XL (this Gen II 5.0L should make 450 whp on 93 octane, my 6.3L should make 525-550 whp on the same fuel - and cost about the same as the 5.0L crate motor). The LS shouldn't have been lighter, and on paper they "weigh the same", but after tallying up all of the brackets / headers / intake on the LS, the scales showed the truth.

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The other major factor in favor of the LS is internal displacement potential. The 5.2L "stroker" is about as far as most road racers go on any Coyote, but we build 468" / 7.7L engines at HorsePower Research for road racers all the time, and they regularly make 640-685 whp on pump gas. With compression / fuel / cam changes / the right intake can make +100 beyond that. Show me a 700 whp Coyote that is NA... I beg you. Hell, show me a real 600 whp version! HPR has up to 527" (tall deck aftermarket block) aluminum strokers capable of 1000+ whp, too. No boost, no tricks, just cubic inches. And we have big LS engines capable of 8500 rpm power peaks for road course use, too.

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When your class rules aren't tied to displacement or "brand" (I'm looking at you SCCA!), when it is just power-to-weight or unlimited power, that is where these big displacement lightweight LS engines SHINE. You cannot build a lighter NA power package that makes the same horse power or has the same reliability of an LS in any other piston engine family. Period.

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It is almost comical how much SMALLER the LS engines are in the S550 and S197 chassis. This makes working on everything easier - headers can go in and out in "ones of minutes". More room for bigger plenums / straighter intake manifold ports, rolled radiators and more. And it all just bolts in...

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Yes, there is more to it than "just buying an LS engine" and dropping it in, and I don't pretend to think that some junkyard 6.2L LS3 is going to be the best engine option for track use. But we do make the drivetrain install as easy as possible with our kits. We take away the "R&D" costs for that part of the engine swap with our production drivetrain mounts, headers, driveshafts, etc.

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There is more to it beyond "bolt in the drivetrain" and headers, of course! We're trying to make as many pieces of this puzzle as we can, and there are lots of EFI / harness solutions - from GM sourced bits to Holley (above left) to "any of the others".

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You also aren't just stuck with the "Ford Controls Pack" or "factory computer and harness" for a Coyote swap/upgrade in your car, either. The aftermarket is FULL of LS based ECMs and harnesses - it is one of if not THE most supported engine on the planet for swaps. I assure you we could have LS swapped this 2010 GT for less cost than this Gen II Coyote swap, even making the same power. But I don't always win these BRAND battles... ;)

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And while we have sold many of these LS197 and LS550 kits, we haven't finished our LS550 Mustang - yet (it lacks fuel system and wiring - we foolishly bought a car completely stripped of OEM wiring). When we do it will be a good test against the same driver / suspension / brakes / tires we ran in our red 2018 GT in TT2 and TT3.

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We have been doing LS swaps for a really long time (18 years) and have sold 500+ swap kits for 12 different chassis, and set a lot of track class records in several of these builds. I know this swap works well, and with the right engine builder, you CAN make MORE power for LESS money than with a DOHC V8 without the cam chain / oil pump reliability that plague these engines. DON'T GET HUNG UP ON BRANDS - we have to look past labels sometimes to find the right solution. :cool:

Cheers!
 

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