Mystique 2018 PPL1 GT

[Tommy J]

Going to try and fit in the diff cooler install over the next week. But also shopping to upgrade the oil cooler as well. Trying to be proactive in solving cooling issues. Any recommendations for oil cooler. Possibly transmission as well?

 

[flyhalf]

Going to try and fit in the diff cooler install over the next week. But also shopping to upgrade the oil cooler as well. Trying to be proactive in solving cooling issues. Any recommendations for oil cooler. Possibly transmission as well?

I feel so close to what you are doing cause i had the chamce to do it just few months before you
As you remember
I have the 10 speed
I've installed a relative simple "plug and play kit from mishimoto (the s550 15-17 model ) .i had to adapt some stuff like the bolts (i used 2 of the 4 only because 2018 has a different front) and the lenght of the hose ( it was too long) .but over all a straight forward work. (Recommend do it with a buddy) and it works.

The problem i had was:
the oil cooler was blocking air flow and trasmitting heat to the trans cooler sitting behind putting temps very high above 240 with the 10 speed starting to hesitate (IN THE PIC CARDBOARD SIMULATE WHERE TRANS COOLER IS)

So my solution has been :MOVE THE OIL COOLER TO LOWER GRILLE (fabracing ,sal molinare created alluminum support for that. )

If you have a manual I think it should be fine to keep it on top ( Vorshlag has the same mishi cooler and they doing fine)

I didn't see high temp on the diff but i do have the cooler ready to be installed. Please share pics of installation!(and where it is tricky )

Feel free to contact me anytime.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

 

[JDee]

With the added size of the PP1 radiator and the stock engine oil cooler (heater?) I have never seen high engine oil temps. It's the diff that causes all the problems for me. Probably the trans is getting hot too though.

 

[Tommy J]

So I'm about to push the button to order the APR splitter, however I don't know about the canards. I will still have the PP spoiler for awhile (trunk lid/APR-250 wing for track coming) and I'm just trying to take it up one notch. Thoughts of something more suitable for me or do you think this will last me for quit sometime until I develop more? I read throughout the FB group the amount of down force the pieces will produce, I'd think I'll be okay.

 

[venom52]

Honestly I’d track it the way it is and add downforce as you increase skill.

 

[Tommy J]

About to pull the trigger on E85, are the injectors something I should consider as well?

 

[Tommy J]

Well over the past couple weeks as some of you know, changes been made to the car. First I had the resonator deleted and had the FRPP X-Pipe welded in its place. Definitely noticeable. As far as the mode differences from quiet to sport definitely a change but not so much track.

 

[Tommy J]

I finally decided on the color scheme I want to go with for the car, so I started with stripes. Didn't want the GT350 stripes, supersnake or GT500 stripes. I really wanted the OEM look so I had those stripes added.

 

[Tommy J]

 

[Tommy J]

Wheels came in so off to Winding Road Racing to get them installed as well as the hubs. I purchased the hubs from @OPMustang Tim. Along with a 25mm spacer to allow a great fitment up front.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Got to get my tires ordered for my new set of Apex rims in silver. Thanks for the pics , I really love that look, and glad I made the choice to do the old style silver over black ( course I already have a set in black, ha) , as I really like the look better!

 

[TymeSlayer]

Are those RE71s going on your Apex wheels?

 

[Tommy J]

Are those RE71s going on your Apex wheels?

Indeed.

 

[TymeSlayer]

Very nice. I have a set of these now and am waiting on my new set of Apex SM-10s in Black to mount them on.

 

[Tommy J]

So with the wheels/tires on and the chin splitter, she handles great on the street. Even with driving her daily and with back roads the temps on the tires get up rather quickly. Something I'm going to have to play with and learn. Very loud, grippy and pick up everything in the street tires. Someone suggested I cover/take care of some parts of the car to protect it from flying objects and his opinion is noted. As far as compliance with the tires, they follow every groove and crease on the streets, have to be careful and hone in on my capabilities of knowing what I'm feeling on the back streets. For my experience only, I can see myself getting into over/under steer as i develop as a driver, so I'm glad I purchase these than other alternatives. Could get into a lot of trouble with 100TW for a rookie. I know back streets, curvy roads we find are different than track environment, but just haven't made it to the track yet. Only thing I want to do know is get the brake duct kit from Vorshlag, rotors (between DBA and Girodisc rotors), Track and street pads, install diff cooler, Watson cage/straps and tow hooks. Then this should last me for quite some time.

I think my hardest decision is choosing rotors. Trying to maximize my dollar, but don't want to sacrifice to much in stopping power. If anyone has a break down of the two it is appreciated.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Super easy on the rotors, get the Girodiscs. Made with US steel here in the US and easy to get. Disc Brakes Australia can have shortages at times, but who knows where the steel comes from ,etc. I would not hesitate to get the Giros , simply because they are high quality product made here and I know tons of guys that have used them. I used DBAs years back and was not overly pleased , but they may have improved a lot since then, so not fair to totally discount, just don't see the necessity when Girodisc have been so solid for myself and our Company over the years.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Looking good.

 

[venom52]

Time to get out on track for a baseline. Adjust fire on changes after that.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Two schools of thought when it comes to rotors. Buy one of the best, Girodisc, or buy stock Ford blanks. Huge cost difference, same with wear. You will be swapping out the Ford discs 2-3 times for each set of Girodisc rings. If you like tinkering with your car, Fords may work out for you. If you want to bolt them on and get max time out of them, Girodics.

 

[Tommy J]

Think I’m going to have to try them. I can’t find any other 15’ rotors for the OEM calipers.