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Mystique 2018 PPL1 GT

Tommy J

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Two schools of thought when it comes to rotors. Buy one of the best, Girodisc, or buy stock Ford blanks. Huge cost difference, same with wear. You will be swapping out the Ford discs 2-3 times for each set of Girodisc rings. If you like tinkering with your car, Fords may work out for you. If you want to bolt them on and get max time out of them, Girodics.
I may go with Ford OEM right now to maximize my money so I can get the brake ducts too. I'll have plenty of time after COTA in May to get some slotted ones. Unless there is a super deal somewhere on the Girodisc.
 

ArizonaBOSS

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OEM rotors are inexpensive, readily available, and they have a lot of thermal mass to dissipate heat. I'd prioritize getting ducting before aftermarket rotors.

Aftermarket ones are better for overall longevity, better cooling, but most notably, rotating AND unsprung mass reduction.
 

Tommy J

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OEM rotors are inexpensive, readily available, and they have a lot of thermal mass to dissipate heat. I'd prioritize getting ducting before aftermarket rotors.

Aftermarket ones are better for overall longevity, better cooling, but most notably, rotating AND unsprung mass reduction.
Appreciate the tip. OEM rotors for now it is. I'm starting to think smarter, just second guessing myself.
 
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Tommy J

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Been awhile, but had to take care of some personal things. However, back and ready for the next phase of the build. Went to COTA last weekend with some friends which is about 64 miles from where I live and this is where I ended up once I got there.
62205174_1188160678021456_3291150558940889088_o.jpg
I'm going to take @ArizonaBOSS advice and get some OEM rotors for now plus the brake duct cooling from @Fair to assist me braking. But the other issue is the cooling for this fatty girl. If this is what I see driving 1hr, I can only imagine what it will be like on track. I'm seeking advice between the Mishmoto Radiator and Setrab diff cooler. Kinda out of my element, but if someone can school me I'd appreciate it. Reading about both companies and products, however you guys with first hand experience and choice is appreciated.

For the stock hood, I don't see any alternative to help the heat escape. Damn near burned my hand when I went to pop the hood..lol
 

flyhalf

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There are a lot of options outhere for hood.
You can buy carbon fibers hood with some openings
Or
You can installe the hood vents ( i have the trackspec Motorsports ones. )

Your bigbissue for my understanding is the diff.
There are few options outhere (and i think you bought one of them) so you might want to install the full tilt boogie.
I also know Vorshlag is working for their own version of diff cooler.

Oil cooler.
Terry and I have mishimoto cooler. It is actually well done however the kit request some adaptation to fit the 18.
However
The bigger issie for the oil temp...we don't know the oil temp cause is calculated not measured. I'm planning To install a gauge soon on my mishi sandwich plate. To have some real data.

Trans temp. You dont have this issue (licky you :) )

210 on diff is not superbad. Check fluid level tho.
Also bring a leaf blower at the track. After the session
From the back poor some water in front of the blower and "spray the diff".temp will decrease immediately. (I know sensor is there but the drop remains after 1hr so it is a real drop)
This helps.


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Tommy J

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There are a lot of options outhere for hood.
You can buy carbon fibers hood with some openings
Or
You can installe the hood vents ( i have the trackspec Motorsports ones. )

Your bigbissue for my understanding is the diff.
There are few options outhere (and i think you bought one of them) so you might want to install the full tilt boogie.
I also know Vorshlag is working for their own version of diff cooler.

Oil cooler.
Terry and I have mishimoto cooler. It is actually well done however the kit request some adaptation to fit the 18.
However
The bigger issie for the oil temp...we don't know the oil temp cause is calculated not measured. I'm planning To install a gauge soon on my mishi sandwich plate. To have some real data.

Trans temp. You dont have this issue (licky you :) )

210 on diff is not superbad. Check fluid level tho.
Also bring a leaf blower at the track. After the session
From the back poor some water in front of the blower and "spray the diff".temp will decrease immediately. (I know sensor is there but the drop remains after 1hr so it is a real drop)
This helps.


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Does the TrackSpec have under trays?
 

flyhalf

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They dont.
What i want to do is create an overtray. Like a plastic cover. However I'm collaborating with them about it. I've installed their first ever kit for 18 so we discussing what is the best solution.
I personally believe hood vents helps more from an aereo point of view vs cooling tho.

202 head temp is pretty normal.
I would suggest to use water wetter with 70/80% distilled water. On track i am max at 225.
Last. Water thermostat opens around 190f.
So it is hard to see temps lower than that (unless you put a 170f thermostat but just to buy some extra time. )



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Tommy J

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I'm having a difficult time finding brake ducting for a Magna Ride equipped 2018 GT PPL1. I have the GT350 hubs installed to fit 19x11's all the way around, which shouldn't cause issues. But the backing plate seems to be the culprit. FTB doesnt fit, SPECFAB makes the plates and I dont think Vorshlags car has MR. Can anyone assist or guide me to a kit?
 

Tommy J

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Well the fabricator got back to me with pictures of a MR GT with the brake ducting. The plates are T6 aluminum and the hose is 275° - 3" x 10' with steel wire. Comes with new mounting bolts and stainless steel zip ties. Looking forward to its arrival and checking everything out. I emailed FTB to see if they sold the 3' inlet's for the lower valance.
Back Plate.jpg
Front Rotor View.jpg
Lower valance.jpg
Tubing1.jpg
Tubing2.jpg

and hopefully they do.
 
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Fair

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Just found and read this thread. Wow, looks like you are really getting hooked! I see a lot of upgrades in a fairly short amount of time, including... well... a few parts that might not necessarily belong on a street car, and definitely not for a novice. Yet some folks are encouraging more of the same (which is to be expected). But most of what you have is good stuff.

Listen to the more experienced guys like Drew, who are giving you the best advice. Things like keeping the OEM rotors - there is virtually zero gain to be had going to $800/pair 2-piece rotors. The stock bits are really good, and with some brake cooling should work very well for you.

Keep entering track as many track events and having fun, and always ask for an instructor until they ask you to be one. :) Throw up some videos or lap times at Texas tracks so we can see how you are doing. The only link I saw so far was a video that was removed.

Just know that you don't have to buy every single thing available for an S550 all at once. ;) Tires, brake pads, entry fees, fuel... those expenses are normal. But about 80% of the crap made for Mustangs is there just to make somebody money, and nothing more. Shiny, sparkly doo-dads abound. If you ever want anyone to talk you out of an upgrade, just call us at Vorshlag. We talk more people out of more "stuff" than anyone. ;) They call me the #DreamKiller because I keep people from wasting money. :)

Cheers,
 

Tommy J

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Just found and read this thread. Wow, looks like you are really getting hooked! I see a lot of upgrades in a fairly short amount of time, including... well... a few parts that might not necessarily belong on a street car, and definitely not for a novice. Yet some folks are encouraging more of the same (which is to be expected). But most of what you have is good stuff.

Listen to the more experienced guys like Drew, who are giving you the best advice. Things like keeping the OEM rotors - there is virtually zero gain to be had going to $800/pair 2-piece rotors. The stock bits are really good, and with some brake cooling should work very well for you.

Keep entering track as many track events and having fun, and always ask for an instructor until they ask you to be one. :) Throw up some videos or lap times at Texas tracks so we can see how you are doing. The only link I saw so far was a video that was removed.

Just know that you don't have to buy every single thing available for an S550 all at once. ;) Tires, brake pads, entry fees, fuel... those expenses are normal. But about 80% of the crap made for Mustangs is there just to make somebody money, and nothing more. Shiny, sparkly doo-dads abound. If you ever want anyone to talk you out of an upgrade, just call us at Vorshlag. We talk more people out of more "stuff" than anyone. ;) They call me the #DreamKiller because I keep people from wasting money. :)

Cheers,
I definitely appreciate your words of encouragement @Fair ! I would really like to bring my car up to you and see if your brake cooling kit will match up to the spindle of the Magna Ride equipped Mustangs. No one I’m aware of makes them.

Look forward to meeting you at Cresson or the other surrounding tracks!
 

Tommy J

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@Fair is there any chance we can chat about some brake cooling to fit the MagnaRide spindle? And that GT500 hood?
 

Tommy J

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So trying to maximize my money I see the OEM rotors and DBA T3 front and rear are somewhat in the same ball park in price, I'm wondering if its worth it. The other side of me hates having the opportunity to goto the DBA 5000's for considerably less than the Girodisc, only the fronts. Just trying to make make better decisions, your thoughts.

Plus who are the Setrab dealers?
 

TMSBOSS

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1 small issue I have with the DBA rotors is their thickness. When pads are new, titanium shims will not fit. I have to first wear down the pads then insert the shims. A bad thing if replacing pads at the track.
 
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Tommy J

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I small issue I have with the DBA rotors is their thickness. When pads are new, titanium shims will not fit. I have to first wear down the pads then insert the shims. A bad thing if replacing pads at the track.
Interesting
 

flyhalf

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I went from OEM to girodisc. And now APRRACING rotors.
Sold my girodisc after 8 track days with still 6-8 days to go. Alsomgurodisc are a touch lighter than apracing.
But less vents.

I would go girodisc or keep OEM
The 3000 or 4000 don't make sense vs OEM.
5000 is 2 piece rotor wich save weight and better cooling.

Giridisc is proven to be great. I would wait a little longer a nd buy a better product.


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