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j3st3r

Brian S.
604
376
Tennessee
VoodooBOSS said:
Are those the stock rear LCA's? From my experience changing those to a stronger set will give you more feedback at turn in and the car will feel more planted.


Yes :( I am actually struggling with which to go with, any recommendations?
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,547
5,275
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Looking good. The new rubber should stick well. Which wheels are you running the P Zeros on.

Off track experiences are part of the sport. I feel out of control and at fault at the same time while the car is skidding off track. Fortunately, the points where I have gone off have had plenty of run off space.

I have had a few. Fortunately damage has been minor, trim under the drivers door and a slight bend to the pinch weld. Hammer and dolly along with a new trim piece and she is fine.

I have considered upgrading the rear brakes like you did. My concern is the apparent twisting I have with the stock set up, the pads wear unevenly. Moving the Caliper out while keeping the stock caliper mount, by adding an adapter, would appear to make the problem worse.
 
j3st3r said:
Yes :( I am actually struggling with which to go with, any recommendations?
Many of us have used the Boss 302S or 302R LCA's with good results. There are plenty of good options out there.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,547
5,275
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Yes on the relocation brackets.

Installed P springs so the brackets were needed to correct the LCA angle.

I had wheel hop issues before the LCAs and brackets. None since. She just hooks....once the tires cooperate.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
VoodooBOSS said:
The relocation brackets are more for lowering your car and correcting the geometry. @Grant 302 has more technical info on that than I do.

I do? ??? ;)

I think lowered cars need them to correct geometry just like Rick suggests. Best bang for the buck mod for any lowered S197, IMO.

Just gotta get the right adjustment range for your ride height and use.
 

buland

One of the rare Boss LS in Switzerland
this is a good thread about the LCA Relo Bracket


https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=2706.msg44539#msg44539
 
6,394
8,274
Unfortunately, I just noticed this, sorry about the car and am glad it's back together.
The pressures on the Contis were waaayyyy to high to start with, and you are correct in assuming that you have to take the time to warm up the tires...
For the Pirellis, shoot for around 29 hot, so assuming the tires will pick up 8 to 10 psi over cold, start them at around 20 front 19 rear and bleed(or increase) them down (or up) to the 29 mark when hot. Then check them to establish your new cold psi and write down the temp so you can repeat it.
Now the caveat here, is that at that low psi, warming the tires is especially important, particularly on most wheels. This is why we run CCWs, because I'm pretty sure, you can run them flat and they won't roll off the bead.
Good luck
 

j3st3r

Brian S.
604
376
Tennessee
blacksheep-1 said:
Unfortunately, I just noticed this, sorry about the car and am glad it's back together.
The pressures on the Contis were waaayyyy to high to start with, and you are correct in assuming that you have to take the time to warm up the tires...
For the Pirellis, shoot for around 29 hot, so assuming the tires will pick up 8 to 10 psi over cold, start them at around 20 front 19 rear and bleed(or increase) them down (or up) to the 29 mark when hot. Then check them to establish your new cold psi and write down the temp so you can repeat it.
Now the caveat here, is that at that low psi, warming the tires is especially important, particularly on most wheels. This is why we run CCWs, because I'm pretty sure, you can run them flat and they won't roll off the bead.
Good luck





Thanks, I ran them at 25 cold, and they came up to 30-31...the Pirellis are the most consistent tires I have ever run. The pressures were dead nuts every session, even over night! best lap was 2:06:1, so was very please with the way the car and tires worked. 3:73 however are not the right gear for this track, I ran out of RPMs several times and shifting into 6th just does not help, so there was definitely more time to be had. The tires also never fell off, that seemed to happen with the Conti's
 
6,394
8,274
They both will fall off eventually, the Contis seem to do it sooner...also the Contis in IMSA were tiny little 275x18s, while the PWC stuff was 305x680 and I think 660 x18. As with any tire, the best laps are the first 5, after that, and depending on how they were broken in, you can get a lot more out of them.
Generally, using a set of stickers and "shocking them" as in qualifying will shorten their usable (sticky) life, ones that are used for practice and are broken in over a number of laps usually provide a longer service life....if you have a choice go with the latter. You may also want to pick up some tire softener to use between races, but don't oversaturate the tire with it.
Everyone is familiar with this....

use a heat gun to heat the old rubber (pick up, or whatever you want to call it) and scrape it off the surface of the tire to get down to the actual tire itself
qrCTCInl.jpg


Once that is done, get some traction treatment, F1, Goat Pee, whatever you want to call it (go kart suppliers have tons of it) and using a roller, spread in on the surface of the tire
WmgHFh5l.jpg


Take on old rag and burnish the treatment into the tire, this is a before and after shot.
epBCqQll.jpg

Wrap the tires in industrial cellophane to preserve them and let the treatment soak in, this is also good to do at the season's end.
abQ4D0fl.jpg

The caveat here is that if the tread is almost gone, just throw the tires away, there's no saving them and a saturated tire with little usable rubber will just flat spot or cord itself.
 

j3st3r

Brian S.
604
376
Tennessee
blacksheep-1 said:
They both will fall off eventually, the Contis seem to do it sooner...also the Contis in IMSA were tiny little 275x18s, while the PWC stuff was 305x680 and I think 660 x18. As with any tire, the best laps are the first 5, after that, and depending on how they were broken in, you can get a lot more out of them.
Generally, using a set of stickers and "shocking them" as in qualifying will shorten their usable (sticky) life, ones that are used for practice and are broken in over a number of laps usually provide a longer service life....if you have a choice go with the latter. You may also want to pick up some tire softener to use between races, but don't oversaturate the tire with it.
Everyone is familiar with this....
qrCTCInl.jpg

WmgHFh5l.jpg

epBCqQll.jpg

abQ4D0fl.jpg




Walk me through the pictures(procedures, products, etc)
 

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